MorganM

No need for a running gear swap. Jeep has done IS in the past. The old Mutt http://members.cox.net/~m151/muttdrw.jpg http://members.cox.net/whooven/m151.jpg

Yeah for that price I'd make them fit That's what I paid for 4 wallyworld Librator ATs (mounted and balanced included). Definatly a steal of a deal!

Sure it's not just the other axle clicking now? Could be an inner DOJ clicking which is right nexto the transaxle and could be mistaken for a transaxle. It's safe to drive. Not like it's going to blow up or anything. If the tranny goes then it goes; I'd wait till that happend before replacing it. Or I'd be VERY VERY sure it was the tranny. Wouldnt even suspect it untill both axles were eliminated as the cause.

WOW that's uber cheap for MTs; nice score. Did you get a discount or anything? looking good sofar; cant wait to see it with those 29" MTs !

Jeez kinda rough on the guy :-p

It's a hacked metro on a Subaru board; what did he expect? A round of applause? That thing is flat out unsafe.

We don't care about that hack job 2WD Metro. Bring on the shortend wheel base 4WD Subaru.

Sure; it's all speculation and guessing untill you dyno it. Nobody doubts it would be a hot motor; just don't put numbers on it till you have a graph to prove it.

Damn; gald I got an old steel version.

Is that a shortened wagon or a cut up justy?

I thought my cabin smelled like exhuast; couldn't imagine that pipe hanging out by my head. Bad enough with a small leak under the body.

But all the cool mall crawlers have them!

Stop backing into things; that should save them. If you suspect you might hit something backing up on the trail; have someone spot you back there.

Ah ok; thats why I had to measure by pipe size. I was double flaring and ending all my own sections. I think the premade stuff at Fleet Farm is labled by fitting size. Guess ya gotta know both to get anything done!

Pretty sure a knowledgable parts rep at a dealership could use your VIN to fingure out if you had a feed back carb, nonfeedback carb, or EFI. Then again you could figure it all out yourself too

Here's what I did. Didn't last very long The only paint that stayed on longer than a year was the silver block paint; that's becuase it was high quality engine paint and not cheap rattle can 'engine paint'. Looking back I wish the whole thing was just done with the quality silver engine paint. Really don't matter much to me now; its all coverd in dirt and oil.

BYB 3". Great kit; sloid and it's had decades of proven usage. Only things not included are a lengthend pitch bar ( I just took mine to a local shop and had it lengthend ). Radiator hoses that fit ( made a custom coupler for the lower hose and I think the upper hose stretches to reach ) An acceptable skid plate adjuster. ( Mine came with nothing to make the skid plate fit but that's an older model; it now comes with a 3" drop block which is unacceptable to me. I'd end up ripping it off on rocks. I think bracket at the bottom where it bolts to the crossmember brace would be a much better design. ) Wish I had skids from unibody upto the rear subframe holding brackets. They tend to bend when smacked against big rocks. Brackets get chewed up also.

I use a freight forwarding company. Basicly a freight shipper that actually deals with end customers; not with business accounts only. Mine requires me to use a pallet. Secure it to the pallet (cheap rachet straps from wal-mart work) and build a box around it. Some might not require the box or even the straps; as they sometimes use heavy duty srink wrap to bind it down. Just have to ask the company you'll be using.

Don't think I'll be making it up there again till April

It means oil got on your spark plug A little bit on one plug? I wouldnt sweat it.

Not where I went to get brake supplies. They sized it by pipe size; whatever fittings you wanted.

Drop the diff and trailing arms. Get it all out from under and have at it. 1" chizel and 4lb hammer. Strike the bulky DOJ cups (they arnet CVs back there ) at an angle with the chizel in the direction you want them to slide off. Do not use a screwdriver to pry anthing as mentioned above; you will just ruin your dust guards and they will still be stuck on there. I prever the chizel becuase you arent swinging near the dust guards with a 4lb hammer; which can easily destroy them in one swing. Good luck.... use the force !_!

Pretty sure its 3/16th ID. Take a small piece with you to the brake shop and compare. There aren't that many sizes; it's one of the smalles sizes commonly available. You can splice in a small bit. Best to buy a premade section of like 8". It will come double flared with ends on it; makes life easier. However you can double flare and end stuff yourself with even those cheap $15 double flare tools. Take the time to practice on a few scrap pieces. Read the instructions carefully on how to do a double flare. DOn't forget to put on the end BEFORE you do the flares Only other tool you'll need is a little pipe cutter. I've had to replace several feet of brake line on my '88 GL; it's not as bad or hard as it seems. Just pick up about $25 in tools (double flare too kit and the pipe cutter), some hardline, and fittings. Make sure the fittings are TIGHT when you put them all together finally. The amount of hydrolic pressure is astounding; they'll surely leak and suck in are if not tight enough. That makes bleeding the sysem when you are done a real pain!

Do it like the big dogs with IFS. New control arms, crossmembers, axles, suspension all for longer travel. Too bad nobody would buy it due to price. And even then you'd still have no gear upgrades and less travel than solid axles. Anything is possible

Lift it, big tires, and offroad it. Just remember; chix dig body damage.