MorganM

There's quite a few bolts holding it on. Tripple check very closely that you have them all off. Use a rubber or lead mallet to tap it off.

Yeah it's really neat stuff up there in the Iron Range. I love it when it's dry. Feels like you are on Mars offroading. You'll climb up a crazy hill climb upto the top of a plateu and BAM its this bright red landscap. Really is a mess when it gets wet though! Fun to dye t-shirts with.... and engine bays (all my pics posted here were from 2005)

April 05 MN4WDA Anuual Offroad Event http://www.mnchopshop.org/images/offroad/apr05_gilbert/ July 05 Crawl 4 The Cure annual charity event for MS Society http://www.mnchopshop.org/images/offroad/jul05_crawl4cure/

Dog said he'd email them to me. Then I'll upload them to my webserver and post a link here.

We're talking about front sway bars here.

Jeep w/o sway bars are WAY different than a Subaru w/o sway bars. I know dudes who put on long arm kits on their Jeep and lift a wheel turning on the pavement! A lot of vehicles WITH sway bars are more of a liablity than my Subaru w/o them. Ford Exploder and Ford 15 passanger van to name a couple.

can you upload them anywhere? if not could you email them to me and I'll upload them to my web server? thx

Anyone have these videos anymore? Links no longer work

I had a caddy 472ci mated to a TH350 tranny in an '81 Regal. Pretty sure there was no adapter plate; just had to find the right bell housings to match.

Rotating mass of the heavier flywheel keeps the engine rolling better. Several times I've darn near stalled but that massive flywheel kept the powertrain rolling and fired it back up. Like rolling around in 1st 4Lo and not on the gas pedal; that big flywheel will keep you moving. It's a trade off; not like a heavy flywheel will make you incapable of offroading. If you enjoy the quicker response from the engien VS the heavy rotating mass then go for it. It's upto you, the driver, really.

How about do that. Then JB Weld the bolt into the hole. Let it cure and then take off the strap. Ghetto-tech

Well atleast now we know the owner isnt full of it Sounds like a good car for $750. Take it for a test drive JonnyP and see if you like it!

Radiator cap will hold back that pressure. Should only bleed off to the overflow when the pressure exceeds what the cap is rated for. Top off your coolant now from whatever spilled out

It's not the head, its the cam case that bolt goes into. Hardest part of drilling that out is access to the hole with a drill... can barely get in there with a hand and a wrench. Maybe if you could drop the engine/tranny assembly enough to get access to it with a drill you'd have some luck there. Drill and tap to next size up. Torque spec is really low for those; like 15ft/lbs I think?

That thing would get ripped off the first time I hit the trails with it.

Sometimes I've had to crack the bleeder open a tad to release some pressure as I turned/push them in.

Good price. Get it upto full operating temp. Look for oil in the coolant, coolant in the oil, and/or smoke out the tail pipe! Headgaskets are problematic due to peoples lack of prevenative maintanace. Usually due to neglecting the radiator, thermostat, and cooling system overall. Don't be worried if she sweats a bit of oil around the rockers, cams, and oil pan. Ask him how much oil it uses and he says none he's full of it! Less than a quart per oil change is acceptable. Get it out on the road and upto speed. Make sure the coolant temp needle stays at half or below. If it rides high and dudes says 'it always does that'; again, he's full of it :-p Most everything else is easy to repair. Just make sure you arent getting a lemon or a blown headgasket.

I have a set of genuine Subaru ones on the way. $50 shipped to my door; that's with a 20% discount. I'm done messing around; time to just get ones I know fit, will las 100,00 miles, and be done with it.

1) Junkyard 2) hardware store with good stock of metric hardware.

Thats becuase I'm not running crappy cherry bombs any more

Public land you will have to discuss with who owns it. City will have regulations you can look at. County will have regulations you can look at. State will have a more managed program of statutes, regulations, and hopefully maps; BLM, DNR, whoever runs your state forests will have this information. There are also National forests and they have their own regulations, laws, and maps. My best advice would be to join a club or association that is active in offroading and sustaining access to offroad trails. There are people on this forum from Oregon that offroad legally; contact them as they will be more in the know. I know how MN works but every state is different. USMB members from Oregon listed by number of posts: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/memberlist.php?postslower=0&postsupper=0&ausername=&homepage=&icq=&aim=&yahoo=&msn=&joindateafter=&joindatebefore=&lastpostafter=&lastpostbefore=&field9=44&order=DESC&sort=posts&pp=30&ltr=

Get it welded on.

Managed to sneak out into the garage for a few minutes. I was able to pull the tie rod end through the knuckle with the nut. Guess I was just paranoid after stripping out the ball joint nut. Ball joints are wrong size as far as I can tell. I put an old one upto one of the new ones; definatly a difference. Very minor but definatly a difference. Going to get me a set of genuine Subaru ones methinks.

While I agree the thing is ugly as sin on the outside; did he really have to say it has a vigina, with wings, on the grill? That's a bit over the top to say the least.

Bias? I call it experienced. They still sounded like crap compared to the Thrush you gave me