MorganM

Worst case is some custom work like Free Range did:

I drive 75-80mph for hours on end. 3" BYB lift, 29" tires, lots and lots of rust. It's a matter of comfort really. I dont just start out at 80mph; I have to work upto it as I get more comfortable with the ride. Usually about an hour into the trip if nothing has gone wrong I kick up the speed and start making good time!

I really dig the yellow. The flat black hood is pretty lame though. Run out of paint?

Here is the legendary SPFI Conversion Manual write up (Single Port Fuel Inection = SPFI, a version of Electronic Fuel Injection (EF) also called Throttle Body Injection (TBI) by GM fellers ). This explains how to implement SPFI onto EA82 and EA81 Subaru engines. It was written by Kelly Huff who we are all indebted to for his effords in compiling this information. A big thanks goes out to all who have pioneered this conversion making it possible for the average do it yourself mechanic. I would highly suggest downloading the .PDF document and keeping it yourself. While this domain and server I'm posting it on has been running since 1998; nothing lasts forever. I hope that it lives on indefinatly through people who have the passion to keep it and pass it on to all those who wish to undertake this proceedure. Good luck and thank you. http://www.mnchopshop.org/images/usmb/spfi_conversion_manual.pdf.filepart

Indeed it is.

wewt

Depends on what goes out inside the alternator. You'll get different symtoms with diaods blowing out vs the voltage regulator going out.

Call up a Stealership, ask for the Tech dept. and ask how you remove rear axles from your make/model. They are DOJs, not CVs

WOW, 1600cc pushing 30"s ? And I thought I floored it with 29"s and an 18000cc SPFI! LOL

This thread has pics of all you need to know. For actuall dimensions and such just ask. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31677

Battery is new and fine. Fusible links are fine; been replaced once. My fan isnt on a belt and is completly seperate now from the thermoswitch / ECU circut. Alternator belt is TIGHT :-\

Running a second t.case is the only way you are gonna get real gearing in these bugger'rus. However it's more than just a t.case that's needed

Glad someone with more than half a brain was able to get you properly inspected. Modified the frame? Did you tell that guy there is no frame and non of the subframes are modified at all? Liability? What liability? It's perfectly legal! Don't let those ppl push you around with their ignorance. Make them do their job

I read your post but I don't get it. How does adding a relay and fuse in line reduce OHM resistance to the cirucut? I have the same problem described... turning on signal makes EVERYTHING on the accesorries circut wax and wan in time with the signal... or turning on my headlights draws everything else down...

Ah nice; a set for street and a set for off the street. The wheels are trick.

I'd just let it idle at 1k unless you wont pass inspection that way. Dizzy spins counter clock wise; turn it clock wise to advance. Turn it counter clock wise to retard.

It's the Phantom Grip that's generating all the metal shavings. Ppl complained about them wearing out fast. Clutch type LSDs work off friction, friction is producing the metal

What happend to the MTs?!

Be sure to drain all the coolant out first. Or you'll get a face full of coolant when you pop that hose off! It's a simple repair. Just besure you dont put it in upside down! Note how the old one comes out as you are taking it out. Good luck!

I second that motion.

Awsome; glad it was just loose. Keep checking it however! It if keeps getting loose you might have an issue You have the cotter pin in right?

It gets transferd through the clutch fine. And when you are burred in the sand you are stuck; 300:1 crawl ratio wont even save you... just dig you deeper. Sand is tricky like that. I just ran the numbers through a crawl ratio equation. Even with 4.44 gears the crawl ratio is 23.37:1; currently my crawl ratio is 20.53:1. This wont be like putting on a real t-case.

Unsafe? Not yet... After driving around, say on your way home. Get out and see if the castle nut is hotter on the bad side than on the good side. That is one symtom of worn bearings. Jack it up again and do that same test on the bad side. Except this time look down at your ball join when you wiggle it. Is the ball join wiggeling? If not then take the tire off and grab the hub. Then wiggle it again; feel like its loose inside there? Check torque of main castle nut, if it's loose then you prolly do have worn bearings.

Yep, same spline count on the CV stub shaft and inner DOJ. There's a few ways to do this.... You could pull just the knuckle and axle out. You could take off the whole control arm/axle/strut/radius rod as a complete assembly. Could also just take off the knuckle/control arm/axle. Really depends on how grainular you want to get with the swap. I'd swap the whole control arm/axle/strut/radius rod all as one assembly. Upto you really; might be a good time to really strip it all apart up there and do brakes/bearings/balljoints. Good luck and just ask if you need further help with the repairs.

Did this include just parts or parts + labor of installation? Thanks.