MorganM

Um... spray paint your roof rack. :-p Hopefully your adapter plate comes in soon!

About 20mpg

MPFI ones I've seen were vacume advance. Your is electronicly advanced. You need any SPFI one; they are all the same. Let me know if you absolutly can't find one.

Possible, yes.

Here's the one I was thinking of. Mikie is his USMB handel http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/Toybaru/ There's other buggies on the site here. You'll find them using the search function or they will reply here

If you got the $$$ do some really long coil-overs like on the Baja buggies. Otherwise you could do like that one duder did (the guy who creativly used a knuckle for his chain drive setup) and just use the Subaru suspension.

If you're gonna flush out the heater core like this. Do it in the opsite direction the coolant flows. You'll knock more stuff loose this way.

Finally had 4 hours to spare in the garage yesterday. Wife and baby were at a craft fair so my son and I played in the garage. Knuckle with new bearings on strut. Poped new ball joint into the knuckle and cranked down onto control arm. Tie rod end on knuckle. Pounded CV stube into bearings. Slipped DOJ onto tranny. Pounded on hub/rotor assembly. Pulled CV through knuckle and hub assembly with the castle nut. Bolted on caliper. Reattached control arm to main crossmeber. Tightend everything down and called it a day. Now I just have to pound out and pound in new bearings on the other knuckle and reassemble as described above. Then my front running gear will be done.... when? Who knows Hard finding enough free time to get out there long enough to actually do anything. The way this is going my motor swap plans for this winter are looking abysmal. I'm having a hard time even finding an EJ22 worth pulling

Heater core plugged up; might be a cause of these symtoms.

Or 31"s with a 6" lift. I run 29"s on my 3" lift!

I use dielectric grease on all my connections and grounds. Someone told me that stuff impeeds electrical flow and is bad for electrical connections and grounds. I thought that was rather odd since it says right on the package to 'use on all electrical connections and grounds'. Anyway it seems to do well at repeling water from those connections. I havent touched hardly any connections or grounds inside the cab. Never messed with the computer either. Even my rust bucket filled with holes keeps the computer dry. Not sure I'd want to ford something deep enough to drown the computer (and instrament cluster) Anything like that here in MN would be illegal anyway. Last year they almost pased legislation to ban snorkels on all OHVs! Most types of water crossings are already illegal.

Yes, replace them both. Also a good time to look at brake pads, rotors, axles, axle boots, and bearings.

Mine is pretty simple. Both rocckers go upto a T splitter. Single hose out of the T splitter to a generic breather filter. Can be found at most parts stores. Then I plugged the PCV valve hole in the intake manifold with a bolt that had the same diameter and thread pitch. I think it was a bolt from some part of the rear suspension; not sure I just grabed it out of my spare Subaru hardware box. I know all the theories behind how it should properly work. Thats all well and good but I dont like squirting nasty, oily, air down my intake and into my combustion chambers. Crankcase vents just fine out the setup I have. I can tell becuase the filter oozes out plenty of oily muck. The filter is tucked down by the hill holder so it doesnt ooze all over the engine bay.

Same here Noah. What really made it bad was the inner plastic splash guards were removed from the fender well also. Now the front tire was just throwing stuff right upint othe air box. Thats why I plugged that hole and pivoted the whole air box 90degrees so its now sucking air from the engine bay. Good in water till about waist deep. Deep water kits are more than snorkels. Dizzy needs to be kept sealed. Vacume system needs to be tight enough so t hat water isnt sucked int othe engine. Differential breathers need to either be extended or plugged. Check out deep water kits on some real ORVs for a more comprehensive idea of what needs to be done to ford seriouse water.

SPFI compression ratio + turbo would be sick offroad. I think you'll really dig that setup both on and off the road

I have the manifold as described but Archemitis keeps telling me he's gonna turbo one of his engines so it hasnt been used yet! I've had it in my hand and sat under my engine looking at it. Thats why I seemed to remeber the studs having to be switched around. I didnt actually bolt it on so clearance at the main crossmember MIGHT be an issue if you dont have a turbo x-member. Won't really know till you cut it off, bolt it on, and see how much room there is. The only draw back I can see right now is 1) clearance at the main crossmember or 2) how scavanging will work and therefore performance of the pipe. It will run but will it be worse or better? Dunno!

Here's mine: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=615

You're kidding, right? He doesn't need the up pipe. All he needs is the manifold and just cut it off right before it turns upward.

Pretty sure you'll have to swap studs to the other holes on your heads. Stick it out the hood and put on a tracker flip top!

I prolly would not have got that close!

Yes, Low end torque is key. Not top end HPs. I couldnt imagine offroading with less low end than my SPFI

That HAD to hurt Love the RC offroad brat Uncoolperson!

I can, email it to me. PM me for email addy.

I'd have to say its a real PITA !!!!! I saoked the pinch bolts for two days using PB Blaster; one still twisted apart! I ended up replace the whole dang knuckle. At that point I figured it's time to just do the dang wheel bearings also. With a GOOD pickle fork and a BIG hammer (5+ lbs) it was not a problem poping the taiperd stud out of the control arm. Thanks be to Humble Nuto for coming over with both of those key tools. My 4lb hammer and cheap oriental drop forge pickle fork werent cutting it. To get the ball joint out of the knuckle is the worst part. Mine was rusted to the knuckle and packed in with sand and dirt ( from dried MUD!!! ) What I did was use a small chizel to spread where the pinch bolt was (leave it in there). Then slip the stud through the control arm agian just enough to get the nut on. Now I wedge a 3' crow bar diagonaly behind the knuckle, resting on top of the control arm, and the pry end wedged into the bracket that holds your radius rod to the unibody. I stepped on the crowbar with my left foot to hold it down tight. Now I hammerd down onto the crowbar with my 4lb hammer untill it poped out of the knuckle. Took about a half hour of hammering; wish I had Nuto's hammer again then! Hopefully yours will go better than mine have been. I've been plagued with rust, broken bolt, wrong sized ball joints, and doing wheel bearings all at the same time. Good luck!

For a common sense, daily driver, I would go with the Legacy 2.2. I loved mine as a dialy driver; at the time I was putting on about 100 miles a day. Plenty of room ( I had a wagon ) for hauling stuff and plenty of pep in it's step to merge and pass. I found the engine to be just as easy to work on as my EA82. Even at 180,000 miles I thought it was rather low maintanace.