MorganM

235/75 R15 fit with just a 3" lift. You'll be fine with a 4". Please note they must be MADE to fit.

How about some articulation on the trail? Dont look like much at first; but look at the axle angles. Open diffs were failing me here. Took a couple attempts to make this turn because the front left was dropping over a root and spinng and the rear right didnt have enough weight on it to keep traction. I miss Castana Gotta go next year! Who's with me?!

I think what you want is to drill the wheels out with 2 extra holes so they bolt onto your hubs; correct? If so it's really not a big deal that they are not 140mm perfectly. You simply drill the extra two holes out a little bigger than they need. I found it best to use an old rear drum as a jig. Pound out two oposite oposing studs. Bolt it down firmly to your rim. Now simply drill out the rim through the two holes where the studs used to be. Then flip over the rim, waller out the hole as needed. Now use a really big drill bit to put a slight taiper on the hole so your lug nuts seat properly. The key to getting everything on straight is to use the two holes you did not drill out. Put the lug nuts on those first and tighten them down. The rim will be on your hub straight and studs will be centerd on the holes. Now tighten down the other two and you are set. This is how I did my full size spare rim/tire form an old Toyota 4Runner. ======== Stock Fuji Lift. General consensus is that its not ultimatly worth the height gained. Extra stress on axle joints. Limits suspension travel. Minimal gain in height for clearance. Lift + big tires is where your lift is going to come from.

Unhook it and see how you like it. If you hate it then you can simply hook it back up. If you love it then you can take it all the way off and throw it in the garbage like I did. As noted above; be safe.

Is it an Automatic Transmission or a 5speed Manual Transmission? I'm not sure how the ATs work but the 5MTs it's a full time 4WD setup with Driver Operated Differential Lock. With the Diff Lock open the center diff is open and power is applied to the path of least resistance. Then you can lock the center diff and make it 4WD, 50/50 split front and rear. Keep in mind you have open diffs front and rear (unless you have a rear LSD) and you will still have 50% of that power applied to the path of least resistance.

This thread has talk of 4.44's in an EA series 5MT swaped out of an EJ series gearbox. http://www.ausubaru.com/ausubaru/html/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=4128

Mud wins again Sucks when dudes with bigger tires make the ruts before you. Next time strattle the ruts

99% of the time they ask... "Where's the engine? huh huh huh huh..." It was funny the first time. 1000 times later I simply smile and nod. Some people actually notice it's an H4 and say "WHOA whats going on here? Your pistons are laying on their sides!" My spare tire doesnt fit under the hood. Full size spare is straped down in the back.

Sure thing Austin. For steel I'd suggest Discount Steel up on Washington Ave. in Minneapolis. They have a 'scrap' selection that cant be beat. They also have anything else you would ever need in stock but prices are higher if it's not a 'scrap' piece. Home Depot should have all the snorkel materials you need. Maybe we can get together and hit up a HOme Depot. I should put a small snorkel on mine also. My current airbox setup works well but its rather ghetto fabulouse

The ball joints are new. The tiereod ends are original; I had to take them out of the knuckle (but leve them on the tierod) in order to take the knuckle off. Now I'm just trying to put it all back together. The tierod end comes up from below the knuckle and the castle nut sits on top of the knuckle. I spose I could try the nut to pull it through; I just didnt want it to strip the threads like it did on the ball joint. Maybe the ball joints are wrong. But the tierod ends are original. Maybe there's too much damn RUST! :-p Ohhh how I love working on rusty old vehicles.

Tierod end into knuckle Ball joint into control arm I was told to just use the castle nut to pull it through. Well I stripped out the nut on the ball joint; it's not working that way. Didn't want to try it with the tierod end. Tried putting a jack under tierod end and forcing it up through the knuckle. Just compresses the suspension. Put a bar between knuckle and unibody to prevent suspension from compressing but it just lifts the vehicle. With the tension of the jack under the tierod end I put a socket over the castle nut on the tirerod end and hammerd onto the knukle. HOping to force the knuckle down; thus forcing the tierod taiperd end through the knukle. Pounded for over 30 minutes to no avail. Then I tried a big C clamp. Put the one end under the tierod end. Put the other end onto the socket. This worked pretty well but just before it all pressed together the C clamp gave out.... the little wussy bar used to tighten the C clamp just bends due to the force required to keep compressing. Now what?

Take the DOJs off both axles and sneak a peak. Maybe the end of the axle shaft is machined down on that phat Turbo axle to fit into the DOJ? Suposidly there is a snap ring holding it on. I've always just... beat it off! We'll get something figured out

I've heard of it affecting ALL the idiot lights... but just two of them?

Double Offset Joint; the joint that connects to the tranny. I was always told that EA82t axles were 25spline. Never heard of a 27spline axle. Maybe it's not out of an EA82 then; maybe it's out of an even newer Subaru? Can you contact whoever you got the tranny from? Surely they have some info on what it came out of.

Sounds like the tranny came from an EA82 turbo model. That means its axles are 25spline and it's also longer than your EA81 axle. Life would be much easier for you with a 5MT out of a non-turbo vehicle. Then you'll have the same 23spline all around (so you can reuse your old axles) If you must make it work then it's time for some custom axles. You'll need to take your old EA81 axles and take off the inner DOJs. Then put the DOJs off the EA82t onto your EA81 shaft. However now everytime you need a new axle you'll have to do this.

Sure thing; as long as you can weld in the bung you are setup!

It's built into your alternator. I don't think swaping alts is going to make those two lights work.

Get a Mechanic (needle) Stethiscope and find where the noise is really coming from.

I'd estimate an hour of labor + $10 in parts for just the bung. Buy your own O2 sensor; Bosh 'universal' one wire for like $20.

My suggestion? Drive on soldier! Watch the guages, not the idiot lights

Have a bung welded into your Y pipe (right on the cat, inbetween where the two headers join into the cat) then thread in an O2 sensor, plug it in, and go go go!

There is no patent for the adapter plate. If there was you would have to make it 20% different than the patented version in order to call it a 'new' product. Mudrat offers a kit. It's more than just the adapter plate. I think there is no CAD file of it because it's not that complicated of a thing to make. Dudes have made them with jigsaws.

1.8 TBI 1989 Legacy?

EJ is a much better idea. You need a 12mm adapter plate, machine the EA82 fly wheel, donor engine, engine wire harness... that's the jist of it. Plenty of threads that go into further detail.

There is no copyright or patent on an EJ to EA adapter plate.