MorganM

Good MAX Torque for just turning up the boost.

Shadow ya big show off Actually that was some good read'n and now my brain hurts. Thanks for posting all that info! Here's my shade tree thoughts on this matter... Puting insulation around an SPFI intake manifold wont yield the efect you want. Youll be trapping heat in from the coolant passage that runs allong the bottom of the intake manifold. Now if you have an intake manifold that has a seperated coolant crossover passage you could insulate properly. If you are hell bent on cooling your intake charge get one of them thar fancy intercoolers. They dont require a turbo; you could plumb one in to your NA air indictuion system. Still wouldn't expect much in the way of realistic power gains. Don't waste your time with minimal gains achieved from a sightly cooler intake charge. Put on some dang forced induction and other real performance modifications. Hopefully I'm not polliferating missinformation here but if I am please correct me Shadow

Most old 4WD Subarus came with manually adjustable suspension. This would be a suspension lift. Some pimped out models (like GL10, XT and XT6) could be had with adjustable pneumatic (air) suspension. Neither of which gain you a whole lot of ground clearance but are practical and swapable solutions you could fit into your brat. Honestly you could go with a BYB 3" or 4" (body) lift, 27"-29" tires, and still have a perfectly street legal vehicle. Get you around daily and get you anywhere you dare to take it offroad. What you are thinking of is not complete insanity and could be done. However its a lot of work, custom fabrication, and the all mighty $$$. Think wife doesnt like the Subaru now? Wait till you develop a fully custom hydrolic suspension system

Correct.

Only unplug/unbolt/remove what is absolutly necessary. Basicly you can just push the intake manifold back up out of the way leaving most everything attached to it as a whole assembly. Really helps cut down on time. Oh get that silly spare tire out of the way if you haven't already

I was talking to a Subaru tech at an indipendent shop. (the guy I got the free Loyale from) He was explaining how you have to be carefull who does the timing belts on the 2.5. Apparently you need to hold the cams in position under tension. Otherwise when you undo the belt the cam can slip out of position and some of the valves can get a tiny nik in them. Before you know it... burnt up valves

All Wheel Drive (AWD) is a designation for a type of drive train assembly; not a differential. An AWD system has differentials in it, front, center, and rear. The center one allows for 'slipage' between the front/rear differentials. This is so you can run it on dry pavement with out binding up the drive train. Four Wheel Drive (4WD or 4x4) does not have a center differential. The transfercase locks power split 50/50 front/rear differentials. This is why you shouldnt run it on dry pavement. You can bind up the drive train and wear out parts quickly.

My best guess would be a thermostat opening too early. They are rated by degrees in temperature. Try an OEM Subaru replacement from the stealership. Best quality and proper degree rating

rage it

Hey I'll add to the list 1988 GL wagon 3" BYB Lift 15" steel pug rims (4.5 or 5" of backspacing I think?) 30" x 9.5" Baja Radial AT barely fit after much trimming and bashing. 235/75 R15 Liberator AT (about 29" x 8.5") fit nice after clearing for 30"s * note all tire manufactures are not the same. sizes can be drasticly different between manfuactuerers, models from the same manf. and even differences between identical models from the same manf. ** also note tread type and pattern play a key roll in tires fitting. if you go with big lug MTs exepct to require more room vs. a more narrow tread pattern on say an AT, AS, or M+S.

3/16th of an inch, OD.

I hear ya. I'm sure the final draft in the USRM will be reformated. Excellent write up!

Divorced transfercase is the best, proven, way so far to get a seriouse low range gear reduction. A lot of the "big boys" run dual transfercases also. Untill someone whips up something better I'd say go for the transfercase mod. However with the 2" legal limit on your lift kit.... good luck

Check out the Marketplace forum under the bushing group buy in. The company that makes those bushings might have the one you are looking for.

Paragraphs are your friend :-p

Why am I the first to ask about your bigger valves Are they swaped in from something else or did you buy them as an aftermarket upgrade? Still running stock valve springs? What valve guides did you use with them? Did you port out the heads or intake manifold runners with those bigger valves? Sounds like you got a hopped up Brumby !_!

Cool hatch So when is that 35" super swamper there going on ? Are those Kumho MTs you got on right now?

Yeah they harden up something awfull. I was trying to pull some off this Loyale I'm stripping... rock solid in most places! Radiator is corroding away to nothing also.

You can test your TPS with a cheap wal-mart multimeter. Do an OHMs resistance test for each pin on the TPS and check it against specifications. Call local dealership and ask for TPS specs for your year/make/model.

I always wanted to just shoot a straight pipe right out the hood from the turbo manifold Throw on a tractor muffler and flip-top! Not street legal however

They are one and the same now; one bought the other out... cant remember which. Having one is better than nothing.... but not much

I've done several exhuast systems now with Archemitis. Most to my design and he welded them up. A few to his design/welding for his engines. Overall I'm pretty happy with the stock Y pipe... when you can find one! However a stock one isnt what you want... The custom Y pipe I did on my EA82 was tucked up right against the unibody/crossmembers. What I did was cut off the headers so I had basicly a flange -> 90 degree bend -> few inches of straight pipe. Then I removed everything from the catalytic converter so it was just a 'turtle shell'; boy are they tough buggers and I bet you could jack the whole vehicle up by one! Since it was out and easy access I gutted the inards. Then I bought some of those pre-bent 25 degree angles that slipped over the headers. With those bends you can pivot the pipe on the header so the bends kinda point up; that will subsequently tuck your cat now up higher. Then just weld on whatever you want for the mid pipe back to your muffler. I hope this makes sense; kinda hard to describe. If you need I could whip up some drawings and scan them in. Peas

That is NOT what I said. I said I wouldnt base any assumptions on the facts you posted.

Nothing is free How to revive it? Grab the welder and BFH

Based on the numbers WJM posted for prices on EA82 blocks; that sounds about right. You could always call another dealership parts dept. and ask them