MorganM

HI SKIP

I really dont think you will need it with nothing larger than 29" tires. Your friend needs to floor it harder. I've done some SICK hill climbs; stick EA82 SPFI and 29"s. Sure it can bog down.... why? Cuz I didnt hit it hard enough at the bottom! Every time I've bogged down I've made it up the climb next try ... or the one after ... gots to be a throttle jockey in a Subaru. Hitting a burst of nitrous while you are bogging down on a hill is asking to break something IMHO. Now if you are going with tires as big as SubaruBrat then you might NEED NOS Personally I wouldnt want all that extra BS onboard while offroading. Just more crap to break or malfunction on the trial. Why not wait till you get the big tires on and hit some tough trails. Then see if you still think you need a nitrous kit. (dont forget to floor it )

What's weird is it does not slip consistantly. It will sit there and do a brake stand and NOT slip the clutch. But when you are just humming along and try to give it a little more gas to speed up... then it slips. Why wouldnt it slip at peak torque output during a brake stand???? Or taking off from a dead stop??? When I've felt a clutch slip; it slipped all the time. Soon as you started reaching peak torque it would start slipping. Very consistantly.

Excellent ideas! Thanks for shareing I might have to do that to my radius arms and control arms.

This is the trade off for big tires. Cutting fenders and bashing in your wheel wells on the unibody. Trying to cut out a larger arc or following a curve is very tough. I would suggest keeping cuts straight that you can mark with chalk and follow easily. In the end it will look sharper IMHO. On the front I followed a line in the moulding of the fender. Very easy to keep it straight. Here's an example of clean, straight cuts on the front fenders: For the rear I only had to cut the front 1/3 of the fender there by the door. What I did was open the door up and trim the unibody/fender following again a line/seam in the unibody. Then when you close the door you have that cleam OEM look still. Also the door still seals properly. Look at where the gasket on the door lines up to the unibody before you cut Behind the tire there I just "rolled" the fender in a bit with the BFH, no cutting needed. Here's a pic of the rear wheel stuffed up: What you can't see in the photos is something up front you need to bash in. Rip out all the plastic crap up in your wheel well. Then you will see a large brace arching from the bottom of your wheel well upto the top running perpundicular to the wheel well. Need to take the BFH and fold it over. I folded mine over then pounded it in so it was not sticking out at all. This was to make 30"s fit with some rubbing. I since bought 29"s and they fit well with the clearing I had done for the previouse tires.

Finally got some snow that collected today and had an excuse to drive my Subaru to work Only used 4WD on the neighborhood streets and on post however =P

Looks like a Brat, only cooler

Redline (btw I'm just kidding :-p you should operate your Subaru according to the Owners Manual but what fun is that? )

I wouldnt talk money untill you see it, warm it up too full temp, and drive it (preferably on a quick stretch of highway!) After a good look then talk money. If it was mint I might pay 1k but I'd prolly talk them down anyway. If the engine, drive train or safetey is at all questionable I would be talking down hundreds of dollars. Might be someone willing to deal.... or might be someone who got suckerd into a $350 alternator job and $600 axle job and wont budge on the price. Check her out !_! Just my humble opinion.

Yes, a few. They are slow to be sure. That was not the question however.

Timing is still off. Could be one tooth off at the dizzy. They are tricky to get on the right tooth. I'd restab the dizzy. To aid in seeing your 20 degree BTDC mark on your flywheel take some chalk and mark the 20degree line. I used a white crayon. Really shows up good under that strobe light. Also helps if you paint a little on that arrow on the bellhousing.... if you have eyes as bad as mine atleast

Would love to go but I've already commited to MN4WD Association's anual event at Gilbert ORV Park this April

Thanks for posting these. Anyway we could get the video online?

An improvment for what? Is this going to be for racing? Rally ? Auto Cross ? Putting on HUGE tires ? If not then ask yourself why you need nitrous.

I've gone all electric fans and never looked back. I only run one but two would be good The ONLY time I REQUIRED a motor driven fan was on my old 472ci engine. Electric fans just couldnt keep it cool; even with a huge 3 row radiator and 2 huge electric fans.

A lot of us offroad Subarus becuase we dont have 22k to put into a trail rig.

I watched it lay down some stripes and a smoke screen off the tires last week

Hey no problem. Guess I wont have to check my flywheel now when I get home

Pretty sure there was one in my '88 GL's flywheel. I bought mine from http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ Shiped fast and was the proper part. I'd order one for sure. If you dont need it then return it since it will be unused. edit: Digging around their site now I can't seem to find it.... that's weird. I know for sure I bought one from them for the '84 flywheel I put in with my 4WD tranny swap. I can look at my '88 flywheel laying on the shelf and see if it has a pilot bearing. I'll try to remember and look tonight.

I think this is what he's talking about. They didnt make WRX's in 1981 http://www.mercadolibre.cl/jm/item?site=MLC&id=2768917

I just crunched some numbers... Common factors were 3.9 final drive gear ratio and 28.9 (235/75R15) tire size. These were used in the crawl ratio calculation. Differenciating factors were tranny gear ratio and low range gear ratio. http://www.s-series.org/htm/calc/crawlratio.htm 5spd Dual Range Crawl Ratio: 22.01 4spd Dual Range Crawl Ratio: 20.3 It's rather confusing just looking at tranny gear ratios. The key is that the 5spd has a Low Range gear ratio of 1.592 while the 4spd Low Range gear ratio is 1.462 That minor difference in Low Range more than makes up for the minor difference in tranny gear ratios. Tranny info was derived from http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14547&page=2&highlight=5spd+gear+ratio I can not vouch for it's accuracy as JWX copied it from another source so who knows where the data came from. I know JWX wouldnt lie about it or anything but its tough to say where the info came from. Looking at all the info in that thread there is some minor variances in gear ratios based on where the data came from (or what application and/or year).

Could weld on some flanges to the bumper and bolt it on there. Then run the skid plate back to where it bolts OEM style to the main engine crossmember. Should be pre-tapped holes just ready run bolts into.

Ahh good point!

Hey glad to have you here! Subaru SRX? Never heard of it! How about some specifications and pictures? Thanks!

IF you just want a small time rig for O/A torch you can get one at Home Depot for about $60. Come with the 2 small tanks of Oxygen and Accedeline, lines, torch and all you need. The O2 lasts about 15 minutes if you got a good welding flame going. The less O2 you use the longer they last