MorganM

That's a mean Justy there! I'd definatly wheel it. Prolly be a little scary up some real steep climbs. Hope its got a turbo! You can make up a lot of power with gearing.... but is this thing geared up? Tcase under there somewhere? Can we get some details ?

Minus 5 HPs for the oil stained finger prints all over them :-p ----------- You've been busy there Calebz !_! Can't wait to see some pics of it sideways

How are parts availability for them? That's pretty much all I would be concerned about. Basicly thats why I don't want to do an ER27 swap. Great engine untill something breaks. About one ever 3 years comes through the local junkyards and the local stealerships can't get parts for them. When you do find new parts for them... $$$. EJ18 was kinda funky engine; might wanna call up your fav. parts stores and see if typical parts are available for it.

Didn't read the rest of the thread so I appologize if this has been said here. Common problem, they wear out. My current radiator has 2 dead ones in it and the previouse owner was a moron. Used lots of JB weld to hold them in? They are now permanent parts of the radiator. Originally I wired it all up with a relay, lighted switch, and a fuse.... what a mess. I've since thined the wireing down to just a 15amp switch from battery, to switch, to fan. Keeping some spare switches in my spare parts box in the back of my rig I'm confident in this setup. Ran it thousands of miles like this now on the same switch. Drawback being that you now have to remember to turn it off manualy. That's why I used a lighted switch. One could tie it into their ignition switch circut and have it turn on/off with the ignition switch. I'm not that fancy I guess Good luck.

Your symtoms sound like an alternator on its last legs (well the voltage regulator) However....was this problem AT ALL apparent before you pulled the dash? That might clue you in.

Tom is pretty much right on here. You can add SeaFoam to suck up some of that moisture and cook off. I just changed my oil as soon as it started getting bad this winter. Will change it again when it starts to warm up. Since it's just my ORV I dont put a lot of miles on it unless I'm driving to an event. Water in the oil isnt good and you are quite observant to notice it and be concerned. However I would agree with Tom that it's prolly not something like a failing gasket. You'd have more symtoms

Sounds great. Isn't it great how you dont sit down into your subaru at all anymore? Just slide right in and floor it

Congrats on those good pulls man. Good results for some basic upgrades. Look forward to printouts after more upgrades.... we all know you arent done yet!

It's way more than just an adapter plate for $500. Well worth the money in hardware and labor. The last 2 trannies I shipped from MN to west coast (read: domestic, not international) was a little under a dollar per pound. This was through a freight forwarding company. The cost of obtaining the trannies was less than $100 from a junkyard. Adding to the cost however was my labor for pulling it, getting it home, getting it palleted up and shipped out.... if one did this part themselves they would save many pennies. If someone were to get solid numbers on a cost of an EJ series Dual Range tranny, cost of labor for pulling/packing, and shipping from that location to their destination; then we could do some real cost comparisons. My hunch is it would still be cheaper to go to a 5spd dual range from an EA82.

Was just talking to a SGT here and he mentioned his mom bought a new 2005 Outback wagon. I gave his mom props for getting the 5MT and said "wow thats the 2.5 turbo then also right?" and he said "No she didnt get the turbo".... I thought it was standard on the new 2005 Outback ???? Really wish Subaru would come through with their promise made publicly last year about having Turbo and AWD standard on every model.

First off I've never done a clutch on THAT specific year/make/model but here's some general advice. Prolly wont need flywheel resurfaced. Is it good? sure... will it be absolutly neccessary? Prolly not; look and see You can use a socket the same size as the outside race of the pilot bearing as a 'punch' to force it out. Find a socket that is the exact same diamter as the very outside ring of the bearing where it goes flush to the flywheel. That way your socket and esentially all the force of your hammer is going on that solid steel clyinder and not the weak metal shields and bearings themselves. Use that same socket to get the new one in. Note BEFORE you pull your old pilot bearing out how exactly it sits in the fly wheel. Put the new one in the same way and seated at the same depth. Stay warm out there and take breaks at key times to get the blood flowing again man

For sure. Need more fuel pressure? Then you need bigger fuel pump. Why can't you run the Subaru fuel pump that is supposed to be on there? Did you upgrade to a Weber or something? Can't find a Subaru replacement pump?

Try an actual load tester. One that puts a load on the circut when it tests it. The little fuse tester I have uses a tiny watch battery... doubt it's putting much of a load on the ciurcut when it tests.

Yeah dealerships rarley give you respect for doing anything cool on old disposable cars. I usually get a big sigh, eye roll, and piss poor service at local Subaru stealerships.

Fuses can sometimes get hairline cracks that can break the connection... hardly visible to the eye. Quickly looking you could easily overlook one.

Thanks for the translations. Mudrat: you and me both

I guess the biggest question in money would be then is it cheaper or more expensive then doing a divorced tcase upgrade? There's a lot of cost associated with going that route to get a real low range gear ratio. Prolly not one that can be answerd right now as A) Nobody here has imported a Dual Range from an EJ series and Nobody here has done a divorced tcase mod on an EJ series (yet..... mudrat? )

There is a thread in the Subaru Offroad forum about a guy who lifted his first gen Legacy wagon. I'm sure you could go that route pretty easily. All buy and bolt on parts for the most part. I think his skid plates were custom jobs. Anyway check it out !_!

That's what I'm talk'n about! Using the rim bolted to the hub as your jig. Try drawing those fancy lines and angles at the proper degrees on your hub :-p Dudes who made the rims already did it for you I did just the oposite for my full size spare. Punched out 2 sutds. Bolted the rim to an old drum brake hub. Then drilled through the rim using the hols in the hub as my guide. Taiperd the holes in the rim slightly so the lug nuts seat well.

235/75/R14 !_! And dont be scared to cut them fenders

Single Point (port?) Fuel Injection aka: TBI Throttle Body Injection (what all the GM duders call it cuz thats what GM called their SPFI) Just has one fuel injector in the middle of your throttle body. MPFI: Multi Point Fuel Injection Has an injector at each cylinder. EA82 came with carb, SPFI, MPFI, or MPFI turbo... pick yar poison !_!

It's a direct ignition system. No distributor. It's also a wasted spark system. There arent really 1 coil per spark plug but rather 2 coils; one for each side. It fires both on that side.... wasting a spark. It achieves a more efficient, simple and less maintanace ignition system. The computer controls timing so you arent servicing a dist. Either it works or it's broke essentialy. Says right in the Legacy manual if your timing is off, something is broke or wearing out.

Just find one of those snorkels in the junkyard thats in good shape. Don't bother trying to get the rubber SUBARU FI pad off; just grab the whole snorkel. Most places wont even charge you for such a trivial item. If they do talk them down to $5 :-p

Start calling machine shops...

I wish I had 33"s on my lifted Subaru.