nobangmycar

Stumbled on a statement about the price of gas before, and it got me thinking that we have a lot of people from different places around the world on here who pay to run Subarus. I was interested to see what sort of safety checks, registration, insurance, and fuel prices everyone has to pay to run their cars in the various countries we all reside in. I'll start I guess... 95 Octane petrol in NZ is currently $2.19NZD per litre. Costs me $50 for a Warrant of Fitness (safety check) every 6 months. Costs me $280 a year for Registration. Costs me $12 month for third party insurance. What do you guys have to pay for? Might have to do a bit of miles/kilometres litre/gallon USD/NZD calcs here...

YOU PAY HOW MUCH FOR GAS?!!!!!!! $4.10 for how much?

1978 DL Sedan, Original EA71 removed last week at 115,000km. Goes to show the easiest way to kill an engine is to not use it.

Interesting issue, but logical enough I guess... If we can say that about an old Subaru.

By the way, I work in aftermarket parts here in NZ and I can supply a Japanese NEW GMB Water pump for around $45NZD. Give or take a bit. I believe we are at about 83cents at the moment with the USD and freight is really nothing, sometimes I can land parts out of the states quicker and cheaper than getting them from the other end of my country to me!

Oh right. I'm sorry, didn't realise your situation and that you were still at school and all. I've been working for 10 years and am married with kids, and I'm still working with next to no budget with my Subaru. Haha, rest assured it never gets easier my friend... It only gets worse. Keep up the good work and I hope you sort your issue soon man, sounds frustrating.

Second hand water pumps? Man you guys sure do things different over there! I'd never consider running a second hand water pump, it's just not worth an engine rebuild. For $60USD or so why take the chance?

Oh, and I forgot the camera in my excitement of rushing out to the garage to get it sorted... My bad.

So fixed the issue OCD, attacked the remaining bearing case with a die grinder until I wore through in one place and then just tapped it with a thin flathead screwdriver and picked it out. Problem solved. Although what I didn't think about was that the bolt holes for the flywheel bolts go right through to the crank case and the was swarf coming off the grinder... It all ended up in the end of the crank because the motor was leaning that way, but one can never be 100% sure that some didn't enter the crankcase through one of the bolt holes. Oh dear. Put it this way though, I'm not stripping the engine down and splitting the block to check. Fingers crossed!!

Nice Godsmulligan! Ha! Well you are getting power to the switch at least if the chime goes, I would assume. So it has to be a relay, or a bad earth further down the line... Good luck, sounds like fun.

In what sort of vehicle does your motor normally reside?

Hahahaha! Good to know I'm not the only one! Exactly the same thing as mine! Miles apart, yet having the same challenges. Going to have a go tonight so will post up a few photos as soon as I have it out... or not.... If all else fails I'll be on the power tools and big hammers!!!

aaaaaaaand? How did it work out?

Are you guys serious?! LOL. What a wierd thread. It doesn't matter either way, and you should be double clutching anyway. If you are double clutching it saves the synchros in the 'box and there is no clutch slippage or wear anyway. Solves both arguements really. If you are really ace you could up and downshift with no clutch operation at all if you were being clever. I don't see how in the big picture of driving, your theory would make a considerable differrence to anything. If your trans is clunking you have another issue my friend...

I'd be fitting a new water pump and gasket. Water pumps are pretty cheap (well at least they are over here) and are certainly a lot cheaper than a rebuild. I wouldn't take any chances with cooling systems. The GMB part number for the pump is GWSU-11A but you seem to have that sorted in another brand. I work in aftermarket auto parts here and I wouldn't fit anything that wasn't japanese made because I have seen my fair share of chinese rubbish fail. Especially water pumps. I've found it's a case of get what you pay for. Can you tell me what you pay for a new pump there so I can compare prices with NZ? I'm quite interested to see. You should have to tighten the bolts too far to seal the gasket either, seems a bit odd. Is it flat, square, and flush? I always RTV the gasket on both sides too, although I shouldn't have to. I'm also good at snapping bolts, especially little ones.

Here is me and my family in Riverton, Southland, New Zealand. See, we do have sun on the other side of the world!!!

Yeah, thanks guys. I would normally have filled with grease and pushed it out that way, but some monkey who had it before me has butchered it and left the shell. Will have another go this afternoon and see how I get on. It's the last thing stopping me from putting the engine in! On a side note, on the later EA71 that is internally cooled, can I just block off the single coolant line coming out of the block behind the dizzy? I'm taking the manifold feed from the heater pipe on the nearside of motor...

Hey Guys, putting the new EA71 in my car and I noticed the last person who had this tried to remove the spigot bearing from the end of the crank and has pulled the guts out of the bearing and left the shell stuck in there with nothing to pull on. Does anyone have a trick to getting this sorted? I'm thinking touching it tp with the die grinder and then tapping it with a punch to break it... Surely someone has done this before?!

Just bear in mind that your cooling system is not designed to have an overflow bottle. That is where 'recovery style' radiator caps come in... So if you have a recovery cap fitted, the seal in the cap not only allows coolant out around the outside when the pressure is too great but also allows coolant to flow back to the raditor when pressure is reduced. So it will suck and blow as it needs to to keep pressure reasonably constant. If you do not have a recovery cap fitted the latter will not happen. So if you put your gatorade overflow bottle on it still won't suck it back. A lot of older cars (pre 81ish...) are designed not to have a recovery type cooling system. The system is meant to vent to atmosphere (the ground) and not much else. My '78 does this, and the only downside to this somewhat archaic system is that you have to keep topping it up. Fit a new radiator cap (take your old one with you if you are unsure) and just keep an eye on your top ups. Your car will be just fine, it's meant to do that when it's warm. If it is doing it constantly under normal operating then it MAY indicate a secondary problem but I highly doubt that in your case. This is my local supplier over here, and explains how caps work: http://www.tridon.co.nz/products/Product.aspx?SG=21&S=4065&G=322607&P=393034

I've just had another look at the engines and I also see my heater hoses are all different on later engine. Can someone tell me what the small pipe coming out of the block facing foward in the centre behind (ish) the dizzy is? Coolant? I've never seen a later engine in-situ so I'm learning heaps here!

Found your thread! Will keep an eye out...

Yeah, you're absolutely right. I see what you mean about that cast alloy passage thing. Makes perfect sense. Do we have any idea of part number for the later water pump? I have a later one but like I said the pulley ain't right. All I need is the later pump for my later engine, as I'm not using the early one at all. Man this engine swap was meant to be easy!!! I was hoping to swap the manifold over too from early to late, that won't cause any drama?

Well done, great outcome considering how frustrated you were!

I'm doing an engine swap in my 1979 1600 DL, just replacing the ea71 with another. I believe the good engine is a slightly later one (82ish?) and am having a little bother with the water pump. The casting is different and the pump is different. The new engine is missing a pump and I can't find the right one! I work in automotive parts, so access to catalogues is not an issue. How many options do I have? I tried one that had a two belt pulley, right casting, wrong pulley. Old engine has a water pump with a high pulley, but it doesn't match the later block. One belt, no A/C, P/S etc. Can someone shed some light on this?

Open diff? BOOOOO!