GeneralDisorder

+1 for the Fel-Pro's - they rock. GD

Just drop by a tire shop - they can hook you up with some single peice lug nuts that will work. GD

Your engine is MPFI Turbo, not SPFI. You are going to look for an 87 to 90 Turbo. Should bolt right in to those. GD

Yeah - it won't change the torque directly (it will change the torque curve), but it changes the engines ability to apply that torque to the drivetrain under some circumstances - such as acceleration up a hill. It also changes effective gearing when you add in the clutch action - slipping the clutch to multiply your gearing will be more difficult with a lighter flywheel as it will be easier for the drivetrain to change the engine speed. Crawling slowly over obsticles will be much more difficult as the engine will have to be kept at a higher RPM - clutch wear will accelerate, and the clutch will fade from heating as the RPM is increased to offset the loss of inertia. The net result of which is the "feel" of lost torque. It can be useful to improve shifting speed on race engines to lighten the flywheel - it improves the engine's "response" but does not by itself assist in making power - in fact if not coupled with other changes to the engine to improve power it will generally be a detriment to overall vehicle performance. It's a very specific enhancement done for specific race uses. I personally think it's entirely unappropriate for the EA81. Turbo engines and "street" engines such as the ER27 are another story. GD

The engine will free-rev better, and decelerate quicker, but you will lose torque, so accelerating up hills will be more difficult, and you will lose effective gearing due to the torque loss. The engine may also idle less smoothly, but that's not a huge weight loss so you may not notice much. Basically it's really not worth the time and effort to lighten the flywheel of a 73 HP N/A engine built for a 4WD D/R vehicle - in fact it's counter-productive because torque is the engine's best and most useful attribute. There are plenty of more productive changes that could be made to the engine - just having the distributor recurved is good for around 10 or more ft/lbs of torque and doesn't even require the engine to be pulled. I'm saying your money is better spent on other things. GD

ATF will do the same thing, just cheaper. Rislone, MMO, etc are just heavy detergent oils. Try spraying down your engine bay with ATF sometime I've run manual tranny's with 100% ATF for a few hundred miles and they are CLEAN after that. It won't hurt anything in the short term as long as you are careful with your shifting - racers use it all the time for lower gear resistance, and if you think about it, automatic transmissions have the same gears in them and they run ATF for hundreds of thousands of miles. Using it for a few hundred as a cleaner is perfectly safe. GD

I know my Brat has a tighter turning radius than my 86 sedan, but it's pretty close. GD

Yeah - those are pretty easy to bend. The passenger rod on my sedan was bent like a horshoe when I got it and it really knocked the alignment off - you should check the control arm as well - often they are bent too, but you have to look close to tell. It will be "twisted" like a peice of red vines because the radius rod pulls backwards on it. GD

1 qt. every 3000 is still within spec. according to Subaru. I would say 1/2 qt is fine for any 20 yr old car. GD

In my experience duals are terrible off-road. The space between the tires fills up with mud, and occasionally rocks get stuck in there too. This leads to a bunch of extra weight, and a loss of traction from the mud slick. I've broken 3" limbs trying to lever out stuff stuck in the duals of the dueces. Even the military has gone away from them in favor of more adanced single tire designs, and more axles for load bearing. They are great for towing, and for carrying heavy loads, but for off-road they are just not the right technology. It's unsafe to air them down because as the two tires flex toward each other, things caught between them can puncture the sidewall. I've passed dualie trucks stuck in snow with my soob. GD

Yeah - should be the same. GD

Probably in the range of $500 to $800 for a quality job. Shouldn't need *all* new internals - bearings, seals, syncro's, maybe some shift bits, and possibly a few bushings. The gears and shafts are really not a wear item. GD

I'll check it out - have to see if the yard has any EA81's. I'll be out there probably Friday or Saturday. Last I knew they had a couple wagons, which should work for ya. All the 4WD's have the indentation. I pretty much know which tank you need. GD

You should probably just replace that tank - sounds like it's pretty rusty. That part listing is just the pump, and has nothing at all to do with the sending unit in the tank you removed. GD

I've noticed two things about Discount - first they will heavily discount things that have been on the shelf forever - I've had them do that with brake pads before, etc - and the box for these wires looks pretty faded like it's been on the shelf a while. Second they have a lot of "leeway" in their prices. The guys seem to be free to make up whatever price they want for stuff - when I bought a brand new Redline weber kit a few years back I gave them the best price I could find on the internet and he looked at the computer, thought about it, then said "yeah - I could do that" I frequent the Mcgloughlin store a lot, so they know me and I'm usually treated pretty good on priceing.... same with Lithia Subaru on Oregon City. Talk to Lea - she's the parts manager and always hooks me up with wholesale. GD

MAF cleaner only applies to the hot-wire style. I have no idea how to clean your flapper style..... it's probably not possible. It uses a hinged door attached to something very much like the TPS. I'm sure you can spray it down and make sure it works smoothly, but I don't think you can do much with the resistor/wiper element itself. GD

It was $22 for NGK wires, and 4 NGK plugs..... I just assumed the plugs were $1 each. That was on Friday of last week.... The guy did have a heck of a time figureing out the part number - first quoting me $95 and then he realized that was for some model of Mercedes . Could be the case with the phone quote. GD

I don't have the full version of acrobat, and I made that site in mozilla composer and wordpad..... someone else might be able to covert it.... here's just the document frame if you want to print it: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI_doc.html GD

Yeah - the cheap price of subaru radiators doesn't warrant rebuilding them. If this was a $300 radiator, maybe, but they aren't I got one of these and it's been great. Single row, so probably not for turbo's....$60 shipped, and the one I got was a Modine: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-90-SUBARU-LOYALE-GL-GF-DL-FE-RX-RADIATOR-86-87-88-89_W0QQitemZ230052015488QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33602QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Here's a thread where we talked about this auction: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61518&highlight=ebay+radiator GD

I could have one ready later this week if you need it that quick. Not sure about the disty.... but you could probably do that part. GD

I'll be selling harnesses soon with everything labeled. Should be pretty easy. The return line isn't all that big of a deal - PM bratsrus1 (jerry) - he did an 80 hatch and ran his own return line. I saw it and it didn't look hard at all. GD

It's not that hard - read through my write up: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html Rebuilding the carb isn't bad either - look at it this way: what more damage could you do? It already doesn't run. If it's just a carb and disty it would be stupid to crush it. Disty rebuild is like $50 for everything, and a carb rebuild kit is like $35 for a quality one. Or put that towards an SPFI conversion parts, and have me do up a harness and disty for you. GD

Local place called "Discount Import Parts". They have two locations here - Beaverton, and Milwaukie(?). They specialize in VW, but have parts for virtually everything on the import scale. Great prices, lots of Redline and specialty fluids, etc. They had the NGK's (plugs and wires) in stock for the EA82. They also have OEM brand oil pumps for $65! GD

Not entirely true. The 6.2 and the 6.5 turbo are really not that bad. Properly maintained they need rebuilds about every 200k..... which for a diesel isn't great, but it's not THAT bad. There's far worse designs out there. GD

The by-pass slot in the housing is very important - the MAF can be new, and if the by-pass isn't clean..... when you cleaned it did you remove the MAF or did you just squirt the brake cleaner into the housing - that will just push the grime futher into the by-pass. Any rattleing in the exhaust? Maybe a peice of the cat is floating around in and blocking the exhuast flow. That's a stab in the dark tho. Fuel pump *could* be slightly intermittant but that's really not too likely. Only way to really check that would be to hook up a fuel pressure guage in the cabin, or just try a junk yard pump. They are about $15 at u-pull-it. The one on Foster has a load of them. Plug wires are extremely unlikely. Just get a set of NGK's to test the theory before buying some expensive wires you don't need. The NGK's run about $18 and are as good as any - plus they are numbered and are always the right length. GD