GeneralDisorder

Have you cleaned the MAF yet? And especially the MAF housing - there is a small by-pass slot that can get dirty and clogged with gunk - this will not allow enough air over the MAF element. Remove the MAF sensor from it's housing and clean that by spraying the wires with brake cleaner. Then remove the housing from the filter box and intake boot and clean that thing till no more dirty brake cleaner comes out of the hole or the slot. Then remove the intake boot and spray that out for good measure - they get a lot of oil in them as the PCV system isn't well designed (they have a kit for it that came out in 91, but it's only a partial solution really - they still get dirty). GD

83 or 84 4WD will work. It needs to be the 225mm unit. 82 and older 4WD's were 200mm like the 2WD's. There is a way to use the EA82 setup if you wish - you can use the EA81 clutch disc with the EA82 flywheel and pressure plate, and then you need a throwout bearing from a mid 80's Nissan 720 hardbody truck.... I know it sounds strange, but that's the way it's done. You also have to grind a bit on the bottom of the bell-housing for the EA82 flywheel to bolt on, and you would need to transfer your timing marks over to it. But as stated by Qman - it's much easier to just get the EA81 flywheel. Also - I usually don't do anything to the flywheels, and for the few that I have had turned, my local Napa will do them in about 2 hours.... you should call and check as you may not even need an extra. GD

No - the axle will just flop around and you will lose power. Unless you think a 1/2" ball bearing rolling down the freeway is much of a danger..... personally I've seen worse. GD

That seems to be the problem. He only beleives what he wants, and utterly disregards anything we on the board have to say. That's fine, but I hate to see these threads because there's plenty of people that might get entirely the wrong ideas from them. The search is helpful, and we tell people to use it, but it's actually harmfull if you pull up disinformation about "invisibles", glow in the dark spark plugs, and subaru engineers purposely mis-aligning the valve timing. He's crazy like a bag of hammers, and it's starting to get annoying. GD

You will have to remove the choke housing. The spring is a spiral wound bi-metal type, and does not have any "wire" holding it in place. The hook end that engages the choke lever wears though and falls off. The choke plate should be closed when cold, and slowly opens as the spring heats. GD

EA81 and EA82 2WD trannys are the same. GD

You are insane. Did the voices in your head tell you this? :-\ GD

Do what Frank sugested. Unfortunately, the EA82 Hitachi choke's are junk - the end of the spring wears through and falls off. It's possible the rebuilders missed it. GD

It's not permanent, it's just really damn hard to get apart. They use an inner snap ring that fits into a groove on the inside of the inner race. You sure it wasn't an EA81 axle? They are too short and will pull apart from one end or the other if you try to put them on an EA82. GD

Sure - but in CA, OR, and WA we don't get salted roads. They use chemical de-icing out here cause we don't have huge supply's of saly from the great lakes like you guys. I have radiators from as far back as 82 still performing flawlessly. And NONE of our radiators ever corrode on the outside - they get clogged on the inside from people not changing their coolant annually as they should. GD

At 16, have you considered that you probably should just get a halfway decent newer car and enojoy being young and able to go out, get to work, and have fun without wrenching on someone's 20 year old, aneamic, problem child of a turbo car? You should buy a lightly used legacy wagon, make a small car payment, build your credit and go look for some hot chicks to fill the cargo area with. GD

You can plug all those extra coolant passages - they were there to heat the base of the carb. Not really needed in a warm climate. As for the EGR - just whack the valve portion off the cast iron base and weld the actuator pin hole from both ends = instant, free block off plate. GD

You can replace the valve with a 33 Ohm 5 watt resistor for about $1. Just plug the two vacuum lines going to the valve with bolts. It will shut the ECU up and won't affect anything else. GD

Should - you were losing about 14 degrees of max timing advance, and about 8 degrees of retard at idle. Plus the ECU was in "test mode" all the time which runs a higher level of diagnostic functions continuously. GD

I can't possibly imagine a new radiator lasting any less than 10 years+ in CA. That's just silly. 3 years isn't long enough for any damage to occur if you never changed the coolant even once. What makes you think the radiator is history if I might ask? GD

You need to learn to spend your money more wisely. You live in WA, and that means you have access to junk yards FULL of part. $100 for a muffler is just stupid - you can get them on ebay for $20, and my last one came from my local yard for $6 and appears to have been recently replaced (shiny, no rust, etc). Same goes for the alternator, CTS, ect. With all the soobs in the yards here in the NW, it's almost a sure bet that I can find recently replaced "maintenance" parts for anything I need. People like you spend their way into a hole and then give up and send them to the yards where I reap all the benifits - buying your $80 alternator for $15, someone else's new water pump for $5, and some other guy's muffler and tip for $6. It's pretty obvious when the engine has 200,000 miles of grease on it, and a shiny water pump with brand new RTV. Only thing on there I would have bought would probably be the radiator and if anything I would have spent MORE on a double row, monster unit. Turbo's don't like the heat. I've owned 2 EA82T's, and likely I'll never have another unless someone gives me one for free. GD

They are just locating pins - don't worry about them. One is more than enough - if it were me I would pull the other one out too. Those things are a pain in the butt. GD

You are just hearing the SPFI computer cutting the injector on and off - it does this under coasting conditions to save fuel. One of the reasons the SPFI is more economical for city driving than the carbs is the computer can just shut the injector down under closed throttle coasting. On a carb the engine vacuum will continue to pull fuel through unless you have some sort of (complicated) coasting relief system that can detect closed throttle, high RPM conditions - but even then they aren't 100% because the carb just isn't "smart" enough, and the systems are complex. GD

Nope - you don't have vac advance. GD

They look something like this: If they are already connected then your timing will be locked at 20 degrees, so yes your performance will suck. GD

No need to reset anything. The 02 can't be detected on initial startup by the ECU as it doesn't begin reporting accurately till it reaches about 575 to 675 degrees. If you are getting a code as soon as you start it, then it's probably the purge solenoid. Here's some info: http://users.adelphia.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html GD

Yuckies. Yeah - I would blow out the PCV passages with compressed air, and probably (if it were me) take the top off the carb and blow that out too. Same with vacuum lines, etc. Acid is a bad idea - there's too many plastic parts you would harm inside the carb. GD

Clean all your grounds - this is a common problem. GD

Not with the engine out of the car. You can thread a pressure plate bolt into the flywheel and put a prybar across the bottom bell-housing studs too. I don't like doing that as it can damage the threads, and bend the PP bolt. The rope techinique is 100% safe, and always works without danger of dropping things in your clutch. GD

It's not that simple. First it has to fit. Here you deal with lots of variables - transverse or not, etc. And some engines are just NOT going to work with the subaru transaxle without serious machine shop work to the flywheel/clutch assembly. Next is engine/tranny mounts - if you have a welder and a torch not a huge deal to make something work usually. Now you have to figure out the fuel system - FI vs. carb have different requirements, and you are talking diesel which depends on more factors - what type of injection pump the deisel uses, etc. Electrical is another problem entirely. Then getting all the stuff to work - temp, oil pressure, etc. All these little headaches add up to a lot of time and energy..... a LOT. I spent an entire afternoon just designing new transmission mounts for my 4 speed in my wagon - and I wasn't even changing anything. Sure - technically almost any engine could be put in - if you want to spend a year of weekends doing it. GD