GeneralDisorder

Loosen all the pressure plate bolts, and it will slide right on. Tighten them through the starter hole after you have the engine and tranny bolted together. The input shaft isn't lining up with the throwout bearing. Incidentally, I always do mine this way because I've had the same problem, and plus it's easier and no need to find or keep around an alignment tool. GD

Yeah - did that with my lifted wagon not long ago. Heck - I shift without the clutch a lot into 3rd and 4th. 2nd is a bit sticky since the syncro isn't all that great in mine. The ex-girlfriend wasted my clutch pressure plate - the bearing locked up and wore straight through it. Once the engine is warm it starts right up in 1st gear. GD

He probably thought it looked fun, and wanted to try it out. I do get all kinds of thumbs up and looks from the kids these days - maybe it's a good idea to put in a kill switch just for laughs. Never had a problem here, but ya never know. Guess I'll keep that aluminium bat my GF found at the park the other day.... light, strong, and makes a beutiful sound when you rack it off someone's skull. GD

The problem with an adaptor that tall is you will push the seat up too far for us tall peoples. Rob - you might be aright , but I tried something similar with an EA82 seat and it was at least an inch too high. But maybe the Imp seats are lower profile.... GD

Try the dealer. GD

He's right. Brat, Coupe, Hatch - same doors. Wagon, Sedan - same doors. Front seats are the same, front carpet, dash (except shifter console, and radio console), Window cranks, etc Dash forward should near the same for mechanical stuffs. GD

Wrong - the hill holder is released by a cable from the clutch fork to the hill-holder unit under the brake master cylinder. Likely the hill-holder itself is getting worn out - the shaft in them gets sloppy and sometimes the return spring will not pull them back to release the brake pressure - or the cable is improperly adjusted. GD

Wow - that is "far in advance". What about this weekend? Up for something sooner? GD

You can also just use the 5 speed linkage - just have to drill a hole in the floor or weld a stud to the floorpan to bolt it to. Then use the 5 speed consoles and stuff. Personally I like the way the 5 speed linkage is setup, and how it feels. GD

Most alts the pulley is just bolted on. I use an impact to get them off, and usually they swap around no problem. But really it's much easier to use a GM three wire alt. It's almost a drop in. Just turn the alt over, and bend the outside bracket a bit on the EA81. GD

Look at alternator. Look at Subaru. Determine if you can make it fit. Isn't your engine lunch?? GD

I think the difference was the 81/82 only (81 GL - DL was 1600). The small intake valve engines had different cams than the large valve - and possibly for the Brat vs. the rest. Personally I don't think so tho. After 82 the large valve heads were all the same - except 83/84 automatics which got the hydro valve train. The 85+ were all hydro - same cam Brat vs. Hatch. At any rate - the performace specs were the same for all - and I've never seen any part numbers to verify this "wives tale". It's very much like the 2WD distributor BS - there is ONE advance curve - for all models. Your seat of the pants dyno is out of adjustment guys. One plant builds engines - another assembles cars - there is no reason to believe they would change something like an engine internal for one body style over another. It just doesn't make sense. All the 4WD gearings are the same as well. The Brat "feels" more powerfull at low speed because of it's lighter weight. *edit*: Here's the part number for 82 - 415107100 - listed same for all EA81's. McBrat say his 84 manual shows the same info... I really don't know how this rumor got started. Weird. GD

20 MPG with 27" tires is about normal. Sorry dude. My wagon - same engine, same carb went from 32 MPG with 175's and 2WD 5 spd with 3.7 diff, to 20-22 MPG with 215/75R15's (28") and 4WD with 3.9 diffs. Swampers are wider than my MT's, and being bias-ply your mileage will be teh suck. GD

Harbor Freight sells some for like $10. That's what I would get if I didn't plan to use it much. Works just as well as any other. Just don't drop them - the solder joints inside the guage are weak. GD

Actually - that's pretty accurate - FPCU is bolted to one of the hood release cable bolts under the driver kick panel. GD

For that matter - EA71's came in both gens.... and being that his problems isn't really EA71 specific it's probably actually better here where all us EA81 types will see the post. But I'm splitting hairs... GD

This really needs to be stickied... The fuel pump runs from the FPCU (Fuel Pump Control Unit). If the engine is NOT running, then the fuel pump is shut down to prevent it from running after a serious accident and spilling fuel all over the flamable scene. Just because you have no power at the fuel pump does not mean it isn't working exactly as it should. It runs for a few seconds when you turn the ign. on, and runs while cranking but stops if the engine doesn't catch. Make sure you have spark and air, etc. GD

Here in the states we didn't get WRX's in 96, so you are on your own there. As for the transmission - IIRC, the 96 JDM WRX is around 280 HP - too much for the EA82 transmission. You'll want the WRX transmission. GD

No - the spline count on the front axles is different, and likely it's a 1.2:1 low gear rather than a 1.5:1 GD

Just leave the covers off - if you can't remove the cam pulley's then just leave the rear covers on. They are not hard to remove tho. Just three bolts. You will have to force the cam pulleys to move - they are under the pressure of the valve springs, and there's no getting around it. You'll have to force them. Remove both belts. Line up the middle of the three marks. Put the drivers side cam pulley with it's marking hole pointing straight up, and the passenger pointing straight down. Put both belts on. Button it up and you're done. On the tensioners - just remove the bolt from the adjusting slot - push the tensioner down till you can put the belt on. GD

Did you check the oil for coolant contamination? Sounds like a classic headgasket failure to me. Started to overheat, and that was the "pinging" noise that you described as slightly metallic. It will go away when you let off the gas since there is nothing to burn. Other option would be a broken rod - but since it turns over without any noise I would think that unlikely. GD

Weber 32/36 DGEV Kit # K730 GD

EA81 - solid lifter - small intake valves . Hitachi or Carter/Weber carb. There is a FPCU (fuel pump control unit) above the hood release latch. It will not allow the fuel pump to run unless the engine is running. Just because the fuel pump does not run with the key in the ON position does not mean you have a fuel pump problem. It should cycle for a few seconds each time you turn the key to ON, and will run with the crank circuit as well. That said, it's under the car near the tank on a little shelf. GD

Yes - both. The crank circuit is very simple - start with that. I would guess that you are not getting power to the starter solenoid (on top of the starter), said solenoid is bad, or the BIG wire to the solenoid is not connected or broken. I had a situation where the main positive to the starter was almost completely rotted through, and wasn't enough juice to turn it. Probably not your problem, but check it all out. Check the obvious stuff first - hotwire the starter with a wire directly from the battery to the solenoid spade terminal. That will at least tell you if the starter and it's solenoid are good. Since you say that a push start works fine - your crank circuit is the culprit. Your ignition is ON, but you are unable to crank the engine for starting without outside influence. Simple problem - fix the crank circuit and you are on your way. GD

Yeah - and beleive it or not I've pulled engines by standing on the strut towers, and lifting the thing out by myself. The first time I did this I balanced it on the upper radiator support and then climbed down and lowered it to the ground. Second time I got smart and used two old matresses and threw the engine out. I've installed an EA81 by myself with no lifting aparatus too - that was worse. Had to balance it in the radiator support and lower it down onto the cross member. Then lift it back up to the tranny with a jack under the pan.... I would not recommend either of these procedures - very dangerous, and probably not good for your back. Definately wouldn't try it with an EA82 either - EA81 was bad enough. As for doing it in the car - not really all that bad if you have ratcheting wrenches. I pretty much always do them in the car personally. But if you haven't done it before pulling the engine can make it less of a headache. Give me a call - 503-880-4084 GD