nipper

FIrst read this http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm then do this http://www.allpar.com/fix/alignment.html

Ok so I screwed up on the oil temp sensor (mumble). My original thought for the oil pressure gauge was fine, but I may put it after the filter. The oil filter holds one qt all by itself. The oil T-stat fails open and has some minor pass through at full open and full closed to keep things circulating. What I had originally I have designed these things before, but since the Justy is such an odd bird, the way they were crowing I was wondering if I was overlooking something. PS - It is a Purolator PureOne filter

Ok i am tired of getting beaten up om the snob list so let me ask for opinions here. Verbally here is the flow... From the plate (over the oil filter ) port out to the ext. oil filter port in. From the oil filter port out to the oil thermostat hot side. From the cold side back to plate port in. From the Thermostat hot out to the cooler, then to t-stat cold in. Other details: At about 3 feet from the engine oil filter plate the hoses are higher then the oil filter t-stat and cooler. I am using the original oil pressure light switch in it's original location. It is basically useless as it turns on the idiot light at 4psi. The oil t-stat opens at 180 degrees. This should add 2 more quarts to the Justy's 3 qt oil circuit. The plumbing is as Perma-cools instructions. The oilfilter has a anti drain back valve in it I have the oil temp sender at the return (in) port of the engine oil filter plate. I think I got confused and put it in the wrong port, it should be on the out port to the filter. I want to install the oil pressure gauge sender at the In port of the oil filter, The way the oil flows in the justy engine is pan to oil pump (oil relife valve feeds back to oil pump input) to oil filter (oil bypass valve goes around the filter) to the crankase main gallaery. Off the main gallery is the oil pressure switch. The oil pressure switch has some weird rump roast thread I can not match. The Justy guys just force (!) a standard thread into the hole. The engineer in me sees this as blasphamy. Here are the questions: Where would you put the oil temp sender (I think I have to move it from the return to the outlet, ehat a beach that will be). Where would you locate the oil pressure gauge sender. Is it necassary to put a check valve in the return line that cracks open at 4 psi.

Technically I can do the job, it is the fights with rust I can not do anymore. Blu has surgery on the 17th.

Just throwing parts at something makes it impossible to easily diagnose. I would suggest putting the original parts back on except the tuneup parts. Then I would pull the codes and find out what cylinder it is or any other codes. Also you MUST give us year miles transmission and engine otherwise we are totally blind on any post. What kind or wires did you use. What plugs, where did the coil come from?

If you are using the original 4eat tranny, it is programed for a bigger engine with more torque and throttle feedback (vacume). It may not be getting the needed signals to downshift properly.

You are below the Mason/Dixon line, ou are south

could be exhaust> I found mine by jacking uo the car and spinning the tire by hand. I also had mine making a roaring noise for 5 years untill I did the brakes this week. It sounded like marbles in a tin can with the weight off the tire.

Got a pic? If it is PS line it may be as simpple as an O ring. Wash the engine to make sure it is coming from where you think it is.

What kind of wires? Mist the coil at night and see if you see any sparklies.

i heard BBQ. Who knows the justy may be road ready by then.

How many miles. I bet the CEL is misfire if it is flashing. When was the last time the wires were replaced along with the timing belt?

define "first start the car"

What kind of MPG do you get?

Why?

You replace them when they start squeeling or you get pulsing in the brake pedal (stuck caliper warped rotor), It really depends on your driving and what kind of pads you have. 2 years ago I installed new frt rotors and ceramic brake pads. For NYC driving and a 3000 mile trip there is almost no wear. I replaced the rears 5 years ago, and just had to replace the pads and rotors (Stuck caliper and rotors to cheap to pas up) and there was almost no wear on them. nipper

If buying new tires, the standard method is mount balance install align. On tire rotation rotate tires first then alignment, If just balancing most shops will balance first then align. The reason for balancing first is when the tire is spun they can see any wheel runout or tire runout or broken belts. Does not make sense to align first then find out a tire is bad. nipper

No need for a tester. Just trun EVERYTHING on and raise the RPM to 1800-2000 and check the voltage. SHould be 13-13.5

Oh I agree.

Yes it happens. It is not an unusual failure.

http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/615323-anti-seize-torque-setting-follow-up.html You are overtorquing the bolt.

But you ARE down south

250 is not bad at all. I was picturing 350-400.

ill let you know sunday/monday. From doing the drums on the justy i forgot how much of a joy they are. Looking at the parking brake it looks like 10x more fun. I just wonder how they get so worn as the PO probably did not even know that it existed.

WHere do you feelthe vibration. What happens when you pop the car in neutral at speed (taking your foot off the gas pedal of course). Is it a constant vibration or does it come and go.