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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. Eastern is bad news. Google Bosal and see what others say, as i never heard of them. nipper
  2. Your too high tech. First inspect the spark plug boots for any sighns of oil. Leaking spark plug gromits will degrade the wires and cause a miss. secondly get out the water. In the evening soak the wires with water and the coil and look for sparklies. A meter wont show hairline cracks in the coil towers. How old are the plugs? nipper
  3. Most major autoparts store will do it for free. Record the code numbers, dont just go by thier analysis of what is wrong. nipper
  4. Blu has started doing this only from below 15 mph full throttle take off to 60ish. i just keep an eye on the oil level. Blu only has 50K on his engine and may get new plugs. As annoying as it is I don't really worry about it. It can just be worn fuel injector nozzles not allowing for proper atomization of fuel at full throttle and full load. If you need to add more then 1 qt every 3k miles, i wouldnt sweat it. Don't rev an engine to 6k while parked, your looking for trouble.
  5. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99706
  6. http://subarujusty.proboards.com try there. I would start with a tuneup, check the two sensors out and make sure they are doing thier jobs. I dont think you have the right codes, as they dont make sense. nipper
  7. Yes do not touch the rear main oil seal, as they are very finicky to get back on properly. They are rarely the cause of a leak. nipper
  8. also a seized caliper will cause the ABS to come on at the wrong time. Pull the ABS fuse and see if you still have that same issue. nipper
  9. The better question would be who hasnt had the plastic one leak. They all will eventually, usually right after you reinstall the tranny or engine. nipper
  10. Depends how far off the timing is. Odds are the valves are fine. The miss is a little bothersome, but then again that could just be the timing. If it is 2 misses thats timing, if it is one then a bent valve. nipper
  11. PS Here is a suggestion. Get yourself an rebuilt axle. Install it (there is no left or right on subaru axles). Take your old one and take it apart and put it back together (w/o the boot). This way you learn how it works, and dont have to worry about the time constraint or finding out the axle is in much worse shapoe then you thought.
  12. It is messy, labor intensive, and really not worth doing unless you are really hurting on money and have the space and time to do it. I've done it on other cars years ago, but just decided its easier and more cost effective to replace the axle. nipper
  13. We are talking about the accessory drive belt right now, not the timing belt. The drive belt is adjusted by a screw type mechanisim. nipper
  14. Cool remove the accessory drive belt then inspect the pulley, you will be able to feel if it is loose. You may need some sort of leverage to check, but you will know. In fact if it is loose as soon as you take the belt of it may move. Also check the bolt.
  15. Ok do not drive the car untill you have this figured out. The big wobbly pulley is a vibration damper. It is to steel rings with a peice of rubber in the middle. I am concenred because of the two things you just stated. If the Damper is not properly tightend, with time it can work itself loose and damage the nose of the crankshaft. This can happen 1000's of miles later. The oil leak may be related. The noise may be the loose pulley. have someone look at that this car ASAP, and dont drive it.
  16. translation " I dont want to do it" If your car passes the bounce test you dont need struts. He probably saw them leaking. Find another place. nipper
  17. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98955&page=2&highlight=washers
  18. I reused mine for ten years till I fould out you werent supposed to. nipper
  19. Are you up for doing the work yourself? Brakes are not that hard to do. nipper
  20. Yes be worried. Try not to drive the car untill we figure this out. This is a 2.2L engine. When was the last time the timing belt was changed? You can have either a failing vibration damper (annoying) or a vibration damper that is working its way off (bad). The latter can damage the end of the crankshaft. how many miles? (always post that info). Is the noise a spinning noise or a rattle kind of noise. If it is a spinning noise, where theere isnt much there to make that noise. Putting water on the fan belt and pullies would tell you if the noise is coming from that end of the engine.
  21. Wheels are fine. On Blu you replace the driveshaft. Luckily i know someone with 2o of them in his garage. It's just so odd that I can tell without dial indicators (its that small) but they were stolen along with some of my tools also.
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