nipper

yes really, i was getting prices on a group buy of pitchforks if he wasnt.

Next time it happens ride the brake a little bit, not to engage the brakes, but lets see if that deactivates your lockup torque converter. ALso inversely give it gas and see if it stops while accelerating

does it feel like a slip or just jerkyness.

Crosstreks are built in Japan.

My gut says walk away. Too many unknowns

Way too many miles to put a turbo on that engine, you will get blowby the first time you step on the gas and spin up the turbo.

How many miles on your engine? If it is up in miles you really dont want to turbo it.

Well lets start by looking at the tranny fluid. Is it a nice pink color and smell unburnt? When was the last time the fluid was changed. What happens when you leave the car in D3 at the same speeds and circumstances? Is this all flat ground? How many miles on the car?

How many miles. Have you done the same thing looking at all the universal joints. Do all your tires match. ANy CEL or flashing ATF lights on startup? Are the rear wheels off the ground in that pic?

You are way overdue for a timing belt, tensioner, seals, water pump etc. All those parts are every 106,000 miles OR 106 months. Then a good starting point is a tuneup, plugs wires, filter, PCV valve. From there we could look at the IAC or a vacuum leak, or the MAF sensor.

Plugs, wires, fuel filter, air filter and PCV valve is a good place to start.

No clutch adjustment on a hydraulic clutch, it sounds like it may need a clutch. Noisey 2.5, describe the noise, and are you hearing it hot cold or both. the CEL is most likely an O2 sensor. I have a clutch test but you may burn out what is left of it.

Sweet car

If you want bullet proof swap in a 2.2. It is a very common thing to do, not a science project, and computer wise plug and play. The rest of the tweaks just depedn upon the engine you swap in. So you are going to build your own engine? If so then you can give it extra power from the ground up as you cant just bolt on HP on a stock 2.5. You can put on headers but subarus breath fairly well to start with. Now do a (set of) cam(s) and a header it is worth it.

Welcome, thats what we are here for.

2.2 if your going to throw on a turbo. It is a very strong engine and can deal with some abuse. Don't know where you saw the 2.5 to be turboed with its weak head gaskets and open decks.

No bet you have no fluid in the transmission. Check the fluid level with the car running.

Has the timing belt been cahnged and all asociated parts, as it is way over due. Remember 1 month of time is the same as 1000 miles.

WHat pginter96 said.

Nononono hell no! I dont want to hear about whose tires is best. I just want to hear about what people are getting out of economically priced tires.

I am not looking to start a "who is better" thread, I would rather talk about religion I have General Altimax HP tires on my 05 outback now. I am extremely disappointed about tread life. This summer they will need replacement, that makes them 40 months old and less less then 30,000 miles. I dont need uber expensive walk on water tires, as I go camping, do occasional off roading etc.Looking ta tire rack, i see Kumho, Sumitomo, and Fuzion tires. On Blue i had Yokohama Geolanders and i loved them but they have gotten pricey.(what the hell happened last time I bought them they were 90 bucks a pop!). I have till my next inspection in 12-14 to find tires so I will watch for sales. Anyone have knowledge of those above mentioned brands?

Brake pads can pick up a stone at any time, especially when roads are sanded. It is just annoying and may need it to be removed if it doesnt clear itself. It can also be a backing plate rubbing. That mileage, yes check the drive shaft asap. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/116520-knock-sensor-101-and-replacement/

http://www.enginerepairshop.com/cleaning-engine-parts.html that wil save me typing. Hot tank has very caustic fluid that is very hot and soaks the parts for a few hours usually.

How many miles. Thumping needs to be looked at asap. That can be a driveshaft issue. Scraping noise can be the driveshaft or brake pads or a stone in the calipers Smell of fuel can be the rubber fuel lines from the fuel rail to the injectors or thier clamps. This is a common thing to happen especially in winter. Not sure about the next one, but lets rule out torque bind. Do all the tires match, equally worn, properly inflated. How does the car behave when you drive in a circle. Knock sensor can account for the rough idle and running issues. For a simple little sensor it can do a lot of mischief

As long as there is sufficient fluid in the pan it will it will pump up.