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Everything posted by nipper
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Critical mass of brokenness
nipper replied to WoodsWagon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I dont see two years left in this car. The spreading rust and torn subframe really bother me from a saftey point of view. nipper -
Some parts are cheap enough to just replace. This is one of them. Usually one sign is that it keeps dumping fluid in the resivoir, and not sucking it back in. Another is the overflow filling up at a low temp. A bad HG will vomit all the fluid out. nipper
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Actually one more thing. When you get the heads off, make sure that the piston sleeve has not moved. This is done with a straight edge across the deck. When you get the engine so hot as to damage (which you have), its a possability that it has moved, then the engine is scrap. Also you must do an oil change to protect your bottom end. I fear that you may have wiped out the main bearings also. That rattling noise is not a good thing, especially after this scenario. nipper
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yes it can have an effect. But first the more obvious questions, when did the MPG take a dump? If it was right after the muffler, thats a red flag. You dont say how many miles, so have you done a full tuneup recently? How old is the O2 sensor? Tires properly inflated? Junk out of the back of the car? nipper
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PCV valve can cause oil consumption (including leaks). replace it with an OE valve. Compression gauge is not a vac gauge. a vac gauge reads the manifold vac of the car, and can tell you many things about the engines health. Some subarus like to make noise. If the valves were in spec they were in spec. nipper
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Bet you had an oil leak, or it got worse during the drive. Another possability is how long ago did you last check the oil and what kind of oil were you running. I ask ONLY because its necassary to check the oil at least once a week under the hood of any car. With extended oil change intervals (not acussing you, just a public service announcment) you still need to check. A subaru can use a qt of oil between facotry change intervals and be considered normal. Extended intervals people (being human) sometimes overlook that fact and dont check the oil level. SOrry to hear about the engine, but dont be too quick to blame the 2.5L. Any engine will throw a rod if it runs out of oil. Blu threw a rod because the previous owner beleived in chainging the oil once a year weather it needed it or not (1997 bought at 180 K do the math, not a good practice). I replaced mine with another 2.5L. Good Luck. nipper
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I havent seen them with two flow meters, that would correct that problem. I dont know how often the injectors fire on OBDI subarus. It can be once per cycle, maybe 2 (Iv'e seen OBDI cars form other mfgs do weird things). I do like the dual flow meters though. I did a quick google search and i cant seem to find anything on the net for OBDI maybe ebay? nipper
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OBDI thats really difficult. OBDI was not a universal code, so its very hard to neerly impossible to find what you want. The simplist way to get a MPG gauge (if you want to increase MPG) is hook up a vacume gauge. Keep the needle high and thats when your using the least amount of fuel. If you want something more high tech, i dont know if youll find any. Carberated MPG meters wont work since they measure the fuel moving in the fuel line vs distance. Fuel Injection circulates fuel to cool the injectors, meaning only 30-50 % of what passes through the fuel line at any given is burned. SO using the fuel flow method will give you dismal readings. nipper
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Man thats complicated...... I have an aftermarket rear view mirror. i have been experimenting with where to put the sensor, and in all honesty, there is no place in a modern car that is exempt from the heat of the sun. There is also a lot of radiant heating from the road surface, and other cars. It is really really hard to make one accurate all of the time. If its a cloudy day and your only the one on the raod, thats the time thats best. Different manufaturers have tried many different places to mount the sensor (grill, outside rear view mirror, under the fender, engine air intake), none of them are perfect. At best its just a referernce. nipper
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Thats actually a very good price for a VC replacement. It is possible that the rear diff was damaged if you had one tire with lower psi (hence smaller) then the other for a long period of time. If the selas are leaking bad enough you may have lost a lot of lubricant. Has that been checked? Is there any noise from the rear end? If the diff is bad (assuming its not an LSD) does it roar, with the volume increase ing with speed? i usually hesitate to agree that a rear diff is bad on a subaru, as its rare. nipper