nipper

Have you been mean to it? Maybe its trying to run away from home. Is this a factory unit? nipper

Why not just by a pack of LEDs and wire them into the sockets ? nipper

They smell money. nipper

Do the two shafts (before and after the carrier bearing) rotate in unison, or is there "slack" between the two of them? nipper

how many is a few more miles? nipper

Then you should be ok. nipper

We like to think of it as self lubricating spark plug threads hehehehe nipper

you people make me crazy nipper

Ah i didnt catch that, but then i would go with either a valve cover gasket, or just sloppyness. First thing i would do is clean the engine. Get a foaming engine cleaner and use the hose. Dont directly spray any sensors. Clean all the opil, and confirm that it is a leak, how bad it is, and where it is coming from. nipper

heheh good. Find a 2 for one sale on these and get me one too :-p i have the same thing. nipper

neons are the only one that i will agree have a 100% failure rate. Chrysler denies it. nipper

Oil coming out, dont panic. If you turn to your hitchhikers guide page number..... hehehehe There are seals in the valve cover that seal the spark plug buckets. That is probably where the oil is coming from. You can change them if you want, or if it hasnt affected your oil consumption, or caused any smoking, leave them be. nipper

If you have a cable, one speed sensor is in the spedo head, the other is in the transmission. But yes you are correct. When the TCU looses a speed sensor, it relies on just the one, but you also loose AWD. It does make a good test. Wrap the cable end in a plastic bag and eal it, you dont want that lube thrown all around the inside of the car, it stains. nipper

There is no firm answer on this. If you replaced a headgasket at 140,000 miles, no one can say what your engine will be like at 240,000 miles. Now if you replaced one below 100,000 miles it should be able to make it to over 200,000 miles. My obw never had a HG issue, but due to the previous owners once a year oil changes it threw a rod at 190,000 miles. Now if you are the original owner, and maintain your cars, then yes it should last over 100K, hell maybe way into 200k. It's like asking if you wil still be alive and healthy in 10 years, you make the safe assumption that you will be, but no guarentees. As you get closer to 80, its hard to say yes with that. nipper

www.cars101.com nipper

heheeh ill have to remeber that. some actuators (adtermarket) are two wire, some are three. Oh remember dont puff that magic smoke, its a bit toxic. nipper

It's normal, especially on a filler neck that sits on top of a pipe. Warm moist air gets traped in that pipe, thats why you get that. Now if your oil was that color on the dipstick, then i would be worried.

Mine wasnt weird, It was nice and convenient sitting on top of the engine outside the block. This doesnt sound good. First off the trouble code is the crankshaft position senor. If its dead the car wont start, but it will crank. Start with basics. Check ALL the fluids to make sure there is no cross contamination. As was stated before try turning the engine by hand first. Then nex look at the starter solenoid contacts (easy repair). Find out when was the last oil change, and when was the last timing belt change. How many miles are on the car. A knock that is noticable from the drivers seat followed by a stall is never a good thing. good luck.

Ive been there have the same code. The code your seeing is for the o2 sensor that checks the operation of the cat. It wont affect car performance, but it will need to be replaced before your next inspection. Also it will mask any other condition that throws a CEL. This sensor can be generic. nipper

i'm not sure what you mean about 1/4" roatation before it engages. If it wasnt winter ild get under mine to check. What we are looking for is any pplay in the X or Y axis in comparison to the other half of the shaft. ALso any play in the same directions at the carrier bearing. Thewre really should be almost no front to rear play, since all the parts in question are firmly attached to the car. If the rear diff was mounted on springs then some play would be exceptable. I dont want to say its a bad carrier bearing just yet, but have someone else look at it (NOT AAMCO) to confirm. nipper

I'm actually going to lean on the side of gaining 2-3 mpg. Here is why. Removing the rear axles you disconnect the car from the drive train. You now have disconnected the rotational masses of the rear axles, the differential, the driveshaft, and the internals of the tranny. That is a lot of inertia to free the drive train up from. you also will notice some improvement in pickup. http://www.cars101.com/oldsubaru.html#1985 Now you wont see as much improvement as listed on the link, since you still have the dead weight on the car, but you will see some. At 2.50 a gallon and 25mpg it costs .100 a mile to operate. (1200 a year) At 2.50 a gallon and 28 mpg it costs .089 a mile to operate (1068 a year) Above numbers are at 12,000 miles a year Damn those numbers are depressing. nipper

Well someone has to try it first nipper

When in doubt, go with subaru pads. Now if your going to go with all 4 pads, then i would suggest to upgrade. But it is abit silly to have better pads on the rears then the front. i am watching some wagner rotors on ebay for 13.00 a pop plus reasonable shipping. I would trust wagner rotors. nipper

With two AC motors on two wheels, i am not sure, but you may loose differential action. Yes there are cars out there with electric motors on the wheels, but i am not sure how the controllers deal with things, so just something to look into. Also most eletric vehicals use some sort of gearing for the points raised in one of the links (higher mototr speed higher efficency) nipper

Well you are long blessed in the water pump department. Yes it can chirp and squeel without leaking, untill it self destructs. If it self destructs odds are you can't reuse the timing belt (assuming you replaced it 180,000). If not do that too. Are you running the original tensioner and idlers, the sound can be coming from there too. nipper