mudrat79

This Will set you apart from the Regular crowd..... Check this Site.....http://www.oregonoffroadsubaruclub.org Look at the Baja Bumper.....It fits your Ride Too..... With it on Board You can push soccer mom out of the way.... ......just kidding..... Let me know what you think, John

I'm your Man.... Check out My site at http://www.oregonoffroadsubaruclub.org Check out the Bumpers Section.... I can Fit the Baja Bumper on your Ride..... Also do Lifts...... E-mail me through the site.... Talk soon, John

Skip any EA-81 solid state disty will go right in....you may need to bring its coil over as well..... Later , John

What Age of Car....?? John....

Who Made them...? Will they Balance...?? Will they be road worthy, and Legal....Not going to Fly apart going 65 are they.....??? What is the offset.....?? John

Phase One engines are just as reliable as the phase 2 ... New they were built with a slightly inferior Head gasket....ALL aftermarket and Dealer replacement HG Are Way better and Kill the HG issue.... As others have already said.....BUY IT....if you are in the least bit worried about its reliablilty, Have a Shop do a Complete engine re-seal....Then you are set to drive the Pee out of it a Good 150-250 thousand providing you give it proper maintenance...... I have Cars I work on here Locally that have 250-350 on their Clock......Simply cause I being their Mechanic Keep them in tip top shape...... Good Luck, Don't shy away from it, Buy it...... John .......

Wow so your saying the outershaft / Hollow tube with the 2 nubs on it won't pull out of the trans....?? If not, then you may have wedged and Foobared Something when you Forced the issue by bolting things down..... Let me know if you Did thrash it, I have 2 Good Trannies here With converters Attached...... 300.00 each..... Both will need a Flush, but not rebuilt.....One has 128,000 on it the other has 132,00 I'll be in Portland Tomorrow, Call me on my Cell....I have to go to Rallitek.....Be there most of the day.... John

They don't need Clearance there....It's all about Floatation..... Clearance will net you Jack.....when you are Knee deep in Muck.....Where as wide Fat tires will lend a Mass amount to a Light ride In getting across Rotten snow, Bog-mud, or other Low/No traction situations..... John

How did you verify your rear diff is 4:11....? the diff sticker may not be true if your Mech.....was swapping things......What really needs to be done is a Spin test in the rear....to verify 3:70 or 4: 11 gear set..... Or pull the rear and physically count teeth..... I have been Researching this 4:11 gear swap into a Hi-Lo Box for Several yrs now.......I wish you were closer I'd Love to look at the work done to your Ride.... let us Know, John

Diff Needs to stay as flat as possible if you are running it in normal position.....If you lean it up any you will need to raise the oil level......If however you want to turn one upside down, all you need to do for Venting is pull the back cover off, and Rotate it 180, so the vent is at what was bottom of diff....It will do that you know......:-p I once had the opportunity to play with a sand rail that was 4x4 using a Very Modified Subaru Drive train....They had Taken a EA-81 and Auto 4x4 trans, had it in the rear, with final drive in the Auto reversed..as well they had run the drive line to the front, and HAd a rear diff sitting there upside down, with vent tube up, and fully functional......They had To fill the rear Diff quite high to keep the Pinion bearing at the front of diff oiled..., But no biggy.... Also yes many of us have run the Rear Diff up front backwards to its intended Direction.....Now, As I understand it , the Nissan T-case turns the front Drive line in reverse order to rear drive line, so Even though the Front diff is positioned backwards, it thinks it is Driving forward due to t-case rotation to the front........ But as The ToyBaru plainly shows, , he is truely running it in reverse, with no ill effect so far......Try it, worse that can happen is a blown gear set.... Hope this helps clear things a bit for you..... John

Chuck....What age of Leg....??? And when you say a Snap ring came loose...??Where in the trans was it.... there is typically a Large outer piece of Shaft that comes out/stays with the Converter....this has a Thin snap ring about 1-3/4 to 2" round that can come off.....It is used as a retainer tool when pulling the Converter......I will have to look in the morning, but If my memory is right, it won't hurt anything to have that snap ring stay out.....do the ends on it come out at 90 degrees from the ring....? if you are able call me in the Morning say around 10-ish, I'll look at one I have on the ground to verify, and Walk you through the install.... Nite, John in Eugene....

I'll help you break It in Ed...... Nite, John

I would check all nuts/bolts on motor...sounds like someone was distracted/tired putting engine together...?? Enjoy, John

I ditto that..... I've bought several from them....Very good quality workmanship...... They will give you every bit of your monies worth..... Ask them about upgrading to a Mudrat special...... pm me, and I'll explain it to you....... John

So thats why yo were out at Qmans place... Cool it went on good...... John....

DON'T USE DIAMOND PLATE...... it acts like a Big drag.....think of each and every one of those diamonds as a little finger reaching out to grab the mud and goo...... What ever you use, go smooth..... my recomendation is 12 or 14 gauge steel .....it is Light and Will be pretty bullet proof where you are putting it.... Does the A-bar you have on have any of the underside cross bracing in it still....?? If not you will want some, otherwise you will have the skid stuffed up to your oil pan on the first good rock or dirt mund you hit with it...... Later, John

Jibs.....You will do some Shift linkage Mods, but you can keep all interior Center plastic looking stock..... you will need 5 speed Push button and hi-Lo linkage to Canabalize, and then for the 4x4 selector, you will have to cut and Sleeve....How big a Lift do you have again....?? Shane....Been to that play area many many times......It's tame for me now... Later, John

Ok, Did you time the driver side Cam at noon, then rotate the crank one time so driver cam was at 6 and Then set passenger cam at noon....???If not , and you timed both at noon WITHOUT rotating the crank.....You have Passenger side out of time 180 degrees..... Very short version....You have to retime, but only the passenger side.... Bring the driver side cam to Noon, make sure the 3 marks are located right at timing mark, then slack off the passenger cam, and Without moving anything else put it at 6.....now you are timed right..... If you are very careful you might even get away with doing it with just the side plastic off..... If you still have issues, Call me Today, Cell time is Free, I'll walk you through the procedure.... John # is in my Signiture....

Looks Good Austin.....But how Does that do for killing aproach angle..... Got a Skid Plate under it yet so you can skip/muscle it over things... Yes Definately needs Some LOUD PAINT...... John

First Question......Did you do Timing Belts Both correctly....?? To check them for correct timing do this.... First pull the 2 outer side timing cover plastics off...turn the crank so that driver side cam sprocket timing mark is at noon...If it is at noon, them passenger timing mark will be at 6...also on the crank, at the bellhousing mark you should see 3 lines all together in a row....the middle one should be at center of timing mark on bellhousing, or very close to it..... If these 3 timing marks are not lined up together , then you have timing off.....Start there..... If you are 100% sure that these 3 marks are right then here is what you do to time disty..... First Turn crank so that 0-degree is on timing mark in bellhousing then pull # 1 plug out and verify the piston is at Top dead center, by turning crank a bit each way...... If it is, then Pull the disty cap off.....# 1 plug wire is just to the driverside of the rear cap screw/clip....when you pull the cap loose, the Rotor should be pointing at this wire ...If not it might be pointing 180 degree's out at # 2 wire if so pull disty and stick it in so it is pointing at one, Put everything back together and Try to fire it..... Now on the other hand if when you pull the cap , and the rotor isn't pointing at one or two wire, and it is say 2 or 3 teeth out, you have one of 2 things going on....Either you have t-belts wrong, or if you had disty out while doing your Over haul you set it back in wrong...... Making sure That Flex plate mark is on 0 and # 1 piston is at TDC then stick disty back in so rotor is at # 1 plug wire.... If after you put things back together and you only get a pop, then try timing it 180 off, meaning pull cap ,put flex plate at 0 again, Rotor will be poining to # 1 or # 2 plug wire , pull disty and turn it to the opposite that it was ...If on 1 put it at 2 , or if at 2 put it at 1.... So now if you aren't 110 % confused, you should be able to figure your issue out.... Later, John

Wow that came out better than I expected Shane.... Looks BAD A**..... where did you wheel it.....?? same place as before....?? John

So Find a N/A Impreza Sedan, Zap says his is 2900lbs with a 3700 Gross weight capacity.... So gut the Imp, get it down around 2400-2500lbs.....Stuff the 2.2 and A Hi-Lo LSD tranny in it..... Run it one Season as that, then upgrade the Engine to 2.2 Turbo......add the other suspension tidbits and Go Kick A** in Season 2.......

I've been told by an inside source at My local dealer , that the AWD auto is A joke in the 04 and Newer cars.....A person bought a New Outback with one, drove it out into a wet grassy field on his Farm, and the thing wouldn't drive back out of the field....sat there and just spun one tire going knowhere....??? I'm not sure if this is 100% accurate or not....?? In the older Models the 5 speed tends to get slightly better Fuel economy...... For daily town/Freeway driving I prefer auto , guess I'm getting older and lazy....?? For offRoad I go for a Stick.....Better Control.... Have fun. John

If you fly me in, And pop for the Pizza I'm so there for you Corky..... Sorry I had to ....... If I were close I'd Be there in a Heart beat.....Sorry.... John

I'm not quite following what you are asking....?? You are planning on Lifting the front end of a Wagon off the ground and towing it behind a Tractor/Semi....?? How does that require Roof Weight.....??? what age car are you planning on doing this with...?? I built My roof-Rack for the BEAST, it mounted to the gutter rails on the roofline, and I've had as much as 500 lbs up on it ..... I'd imagine that an EA-82 car mounted up the same way could handle the same weight..... hope that helps you, John