ballitch

if 4.44's wont fit, does that mean that 4.111's wont fit also? if you cant get 4.44's, might as well have the next best thing. ~Josh~

if you decide to put an EJ motor in your EA car, one thing you should know is that the impreza's EJ18 ECU has better topend(higher rpm) fuel and timing maps, however, the EJ25 ECU has the best low end torque fuel and timing maps. the EJ22 ECU is somewhere in between. if it were me....here i go again.....i would use the EJ18 harness and ECU, with the EJ18 maf sensor. simply because the EJ22 that you would put in there has enough low end grunt to do just about anything you ask it too...weak point is often tires anyway. since all EJ N/A motors are maf based and not MAP based, you can swap motor and harnesses just fine. a problem i ran into was that i used the stock EA82 exhaust, which is like 1.75'' I.D. piping, the EJ motors come with 2.00'' I.D. piping. so at higher RPM's the exhaust really limits flow and power, it just hits a dead spot were i know there should be power, but there isnt, its just rpm's. as far as weight differences, all EJ motors are probably within 10-20 lbs. of each other, i bet the EJ18 weighs 10 lbs. less than the EJ22. the block isnt much bigger, and the pistons arent too much larger also. if you mostly drive your car on the highway, you might want to think about bigger tires to offset the gearing. remember, the EA cars are geared for 85-90 hp motors with 23'' wheels, the EJ motors are geared for 110-165 hp and 24'' wheels. you gain only one inch in total tire diameter, but you gain 20-80 hp.(based on motor size) if you want to make this really cut and dry, if you dont have SPFI, convert your car to SPFI.......on second thought...you'll have to pull a wire harness for that also, so scratch that.....do the EJ22 swap. ~Josh~

i was skeptical at first, but it does work like it was made to do so. now no-one can use the excuse "i searched but it didnt tell me." ~Josh~

today i took the power steering rack out of a parts car( with hardlines), and swapped into my manual steering 86' with the EJ22 in it. one thing EVERYONE should know is that the EJ type power steering pumps will BOLT UP DIRECTLY to the older EA style power steering hardlines. only a little bending is required. for those with power steering stock, you dont have to worry aobut trying to keep your power steering IF you do the EJ conversion to your car. just thought this info should be out there. just remember to grab the right power steering pump bracket, so you dont have to go BACK to the junkyard 10 miles away to get it. ~Josh~

so im guessing you used the JDM EJ20G tranny also? all you need to do for the axles is grab the rear impreza (or POSSIBLY legacy) axles, and swap the rear diff DOJ(part that slides onto rear diff) from your 3.70 rear diff onto the impreza axles. or, if you want, you can go 5-lug while your at it and save yourself some trouble, and you'll be running the right sized tires for that 4.111 tranny. are you going to run stock boost (10 psi.)? that EJ20G is completely fine at 15 psi. with no problems. ~Josh~

ya all you have to do to make the ECU "think" its a manual tranny ECU is pull out one wire from the ECU, or just cut it. after that the TCU will try to send info, but ECU will ignore it. as far as the neutral switch, and starter switch, didnt someone wire it into their e-brake or something? EDIT: you will also need to get your driveshaft shortened..or lengthened, i can never remember. and make sure your rear diff is a 3.90 ratio. if its not, then you need to get a 3.90 rear diff for your car, dont worry, they bolt right up. but you might need to fab something up for the carrier bearing that supports the driveline. ~Josh~

it technically doesnt change the ratio, it just is an "implant" to make your front diff have a helical or clutch type engagement when wheel slip is created.....correct? and you can change the front diff ratio, right? by swithing to the 3.90 or 4.11 front diff, since they are apparently ALL interchangeable. ~Josh~

you will need to grab the EA axles. then swap the tranny side of the axle onto your impreza axle. basically same thing you do for a 5-lug only a bit backwards. make an adapter plate form steel, and paint it with rust-oleum afterwards. the bottom bolts line up perfectly, so start there. you might have to drill out the "top bolt" threads on your impreza motor to be able to put a bolt all the way through the motor-adapter-tranny. you will also need the EA82 flywheel. grab an XT6 disc and pressure plate online, and throwout/pilot bearings. you can try to tap the adapter plate, but i wouldnt trust it too much. bolts are better than studs with a 1/2'' of thread. ~Josh~

thanks for the info. ~Josh~

ya that castrol stuff is awesome. i like that hot engine cleaner idea. since the grease and oil is hot, it will clean off easier. ~Josh~

that helps me a little, but i dont have a EA under my hood.... i think the legacy and impreza PS pumps are relatively exposed, but ill look tommorow. just need to know how to bleed the system once i get it all hooked up. ~Josh~

im sorry, but when you NEED 2 alternators for your car......something is awry. if you have 120 Amps that that thing is spitting out, use 8,6, or 4 gauge wire for your rally lights, or run them off a 2nd battery with a battery isolator. or maybe you just are addicted to offroad lights...... ~Josh~

im sure ill be able to figure it our one way or another. one question though, how do you bleed the power steering rack/pump when you put pwer steering onto a car that didnt have it before? ~Josh~

sorry man i cant be of too much help but......check your fuses. make sure your cam and crank sensors are screwed in all the way. and see if your grounds came loose. without seeing more or knowing more i cant help you, but you know you should have "cleaned" up the wires one by one. ~Josh~

im wondering, does anyone know if i can use the EJ motor's power steering pump with the EA power steering rack? if its a matter of one has different size AN fittings then it shouldnt be too hard, anyone see a problem with this. id like power steering just to try to alleviate osme of the torque steer and make it easier for offroad stuff. ~Josh~

the XT6, 4WD, and ALL turbo EA cars have the same clutch disc, the only difference is the pressure plate, i dont htink you "need" the XT6 flywheel, but you can have your flywheel machined to XT6 specifications. then get the 4WD clutxch disc and XT6 pressure plate, along with a new throwout bearing and pilot bearing. it would be nice to use an EJ motor in a FWD car, but you would need a LSD for the front, seriously, you would NEED one. if you have problems with oyur local parts store, go online. most of the time if you order $100 or more, you get free shipping. it shouldnt cost you more than $140 US for the disc, bearings and pressure plate. thats what i paid. EDIT: for those that are wondering how much of the harness you need, its simple, you need the whole thing. from the whole thing you separate the engine-only wires from the rest of the crap. you only use about 8-10% of the total harness, so dont be shocked when youre done to only see a handful of wires left. connect all your power wires together to make a single "power wire" same goes for the ground wires. ~Josh~

easy now....if he wants to slowly eat his CV joints away, let him. besides, its not much of a lift, only like an inch or so. but if its 2 or more inches, i would use the spacers. think of this...use the spacers on a NON lifted legacy to get the motor and tranny an inch or so lower to the ground........ ~Josh~

you wont be able to fit even 25ft of the composite line onto your winch 3/8= 12/32 and since you have 5/32 cable on there now, 12 is greater than 5 by more than double, so you might not even be able to 22 ft of comp. line onto winch, and for block and tackle setup is not anywhere near the amount of line you are going to need, unless you get stuck 8 ft form a tree, your going to be screwed unless you can add more line somehow. I.E. tow straps or what-have-you. ~Josh~

oh come on now...show a little love for the poor EJ25. i say since its a DOHC motor, which are a pain to get the cam sprockets lined back up after HG's, i would buy the new 4-layer all steel head gaskets, new seals (crank, rear main, cam etc.) and intake/exhaust gaskets. after you buy the materials, not from a dealer, go online and buy them. go to a local independent suby shop and have them qoute you a price for the HG replace, if you dont like it say fine, what would it charge me to drop off my motor and have you replace HG's? That might save you a couple hundred in shop hours by pulling motor yourself. im assuming you have an automatic tranny. if you do, make sure to unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate FIRST!!! dont try to pull motor out without torque converter. if you want to get even more in depth, you can remove your intake manifold, A/C compressor, and power steering pump, and alternator before ytou drop the motor off at the shop. by doing this you can make sure you wont have to get the A/C recharged, and it will cut down on shop time. unbolt power steering form motor also, just dont disconnect it and have it leak fluid all over the place. ~Josh~

NOTE: if using non-turbo tranny with 23 spline. you MUST swap the tranny side of the axle onto your XT6 or impreza axle. its not very hard to do, pretty much the same as changing the boot, but alittle more in depth. or you can have a axle shop make them for you. only if oyu are using a non-turbo tranny do you have to do this. ~Josh~

and since the camber on these cars is NOT-adjustable, you dont have to worry about an alignment afterwards. ~Josh~

the HG job is a pain with motor in car. grab yourself a $15 chiltons/haynes manual, it will tell you exactly how to do it. hope you have another car you can use to run errands, you never get everything you need the first trip to the auto parts store. 2 brains are better than one, grab a friend, if possible, that konws someting about motors if you dont already. if oyu pull motor, MARK everything that you pull/cut apart. $1000 for a HG job, why so spendy....because they're a pain to do. still sounds a little steep. in the pacific NW you can get a used motor bought and put in for that much. OR......this could be a sign that your car wants an EJ motor under the hood ~Josh~

same principle, more wires though, id use the upgraded XT6 pressure plate instead, as long as you got non-turbo tranny(for push style actuation) crossmember is an issue, easy fix though. as for exhaust, id go custom up/down pipes. and since its OBD-I, you dont have to worry about exhaust too much. however, go 2.5'' turbo-back, you will like it:brow: one more thing, make adapter plate from steel, save yourself some cash, and headache. be gentle on the tranny, or else you wil need a new one in a VERY short time. ~Josh~

i dont know about the phantom "copy" of the helical, but i do know that i have absolutely no idea what is in my tranny, or how not to mess it up when i take it apart/ put it back together. if i wanted a front LSD that bad, id buy one, and drive my white butt down to eugene with tranny in car and pay Mudrat79 to do it for me. like previously said, the one part on my car i care NOT to know how to fix/modify. ~Josh~

like said before, why would you go offroading in a $4k-$5k car? you wouldnt, its just not smart, or practical. if you do wheel an EJ car, cool, your one of the few that has the guts to do it. the whole power issue, ya sure the EJ has more power......but guess how i solved that problem. as far as parts and car availibility, depends on where you are, just like alot of things. the wheelbase in my EA wagon is nice, not to mention turning radius that beats out most cars on the road today. DUAL RANGE!!!!! i used it on the freeway a couple weeks ago in REALLY slow traffic = no throttle usage. ya my car is ugly, so what. it can go places even i dont think is possible. also, if you read up a bit, you will find that quite a few parts from the new gens will swap onto ,with little to no modification, the EA cars. take rear diffs, and front diffs for example. anyway im rambling. ~Josh~