ballitch

thats go to know.......but with the accord rear springs on my GL, it is too stiff as is, it would probably oversteer if i even mentioned the word oversteer. ~Josh~

get your hands on some 7'' or 8'' bolt with a 1/8'' diameter, bend a 90 degree bend in it with the help of a vise and BFH, gring off the end of the hook so you only have about an 1/8'' to 3/16'' hook, just enough to slide through the piston pin, and pull like hell. when i did mine on my EA82 teardown, i used a length of chain link fence.......................hey now, it was the only thing i could find/think of at the time...................... ~Josh~

so i got a parts car in the JY i can cannibalize for this swap, but i need to know how the heck im going to get the rear hubs out of the XT6..........do they just "slide" out with a little "effort" or do i have to buy the whole rear "knuckle" assembly and have the hub pressed out? i tried a couple search parameters and not much of anything came up pertaining to my dilemna. anyway, if you know how im supposed to do this, please by all means learn me somethin'. ~Josh~

the EJ20G is the old STI motor and the 22B i believe, if that 2.5RS has a 95 wrx motor in it it is most likely a EJ20G, which is debatedly the best suby motor ever designed and built........but everyone has their opinions. and the EJ series motors do not come in 3.3 litre, those are EG33's, also known as the SVX motor. ~Josh~

one word......WOW!!!! ~Josh~

^^^^what he said. and how dare you confuse that poor mechanic..shame on you... ~Josh~

when i get my 5-lug swap done, ima go RWD for a little bit for the hell of it.........for summer and spring would be nice, then swap in the front axles and have 4WD for the fall and winter. whe you run 4WD, as long as your tires are close to the same circumfrence, it really wont hurt it. but try to only use 4WD on surfaces that have at least 10-20% slippage factor , i.e. rainy roads, ice, snow, mud, you get the picture. ~Josh~

now correct me if im wrong, but doesnt propane have like a 114 octane rating, have no idea what ron or mon number it is though. if it is alot higher than premium gas , and is cheaper, the best bang for your buck would be to put some EJ18 heads on it, get the cams redone for a better profile. that block/head combo would put you at about 11.5:1 compression, but since you have propane, you shouldnt knock, and if you do, all you have to do is pop the hood and twist your disty a little bit. just something to think about in the future. ~Josh~

thats because he lives and is going to register the car in Cali. Cali is dumb like that:) anyway, if you live in a county that doesnt require it, yank those damn things outta there. if your car is running good, a cat or two will help the fumes but it sucks power like no other. i plan on going 2.25'' custom header-back and ditch the last cat. luckily i live in a county that doesnt require DEQ or anything like that. farther north is a different story however. if you do this swap, please follow our advice, it is well earned. we been there, done that, tried to cut this corner, and that corner here and there. but in the end its in your best interest to heed our advice. ~Josh~

hydraulic clutches are nice that way, but if you have a slow leak, and get air into the system.......not good. a linkage setup would be killer. i personally like to "feel" what the car is doing, so if somethigns wrong i can tell. ~Josh~

some foresters, but mainly from legacy outbacks, cant remember what years though. they are hard to find i know that much. ~Josh~

ya i agree, finding 4.44 gears is harder than finding a LSD in a JY!!! but what your talking about is the ultimate subaru tranny for our cars, tons of crawl ratio, and a good highway gear to save gas, not to mention the FT4WD ability. if you could make them, i bet you'd have a line a block long with peole that are dying to buy one. ~Josh~

as far as how long it took, i would say somewhere in the neighborhood of 175-200 hours of work, for wiring and everythign else. if i were to do it again it might take me about 50 hours less, thats how much time is used in R&D and test fitting stuff. as for total cost, it was about $850-$1000 to get it all done, that includes the adapter plates and paying a machine shop to cut them out of the aluminum sheet i bought. i did all the work by myself with help from my dad and this board. like what has been stated before, this swap is not for the faint of heart. many times i ran into dead ends, thats when i posted to find out where im screwing up. im just glad i didnt pioneer this swap. all the info is out there, most of the hard stuff is already done so all you have to do is follow other people's advice. if you have any specific questions feel free to ask. if your worried about the cost factor, think of it this way, the EJ motors are more reliable and parts are more readily available than older cars. and since its EFI you wont have to worry about " is my car going to start in -10 degree weather," what it all boils down to is how much you like your car, and if you consider it advantageous to do this to your car. ~Josh~

19 is oil pan and 22 im almost positive is the tranny drain plug. as for the rear diff, buy a short 1/2'' extension for your 1/2'' socket wrench. if you dont have a 1/2'' socket wrench, buy a 3/8''-1/2'' socket adapter and your good to go. the drain and fill plug are the 1/2'' male end of the socket extension........that reminds me...i need to change rear diff oil soon. ~Josh~

EJ22!!!!!! EJ22!!!!! i know................. im biased............. ~Josh~

the air suspension is one of the many subaru "guinea pig experiments" that eventually go wrong, usually age is the factor. i say get some new GR-2's from ebay for your car, unhook the air struts in the back and unplug the connectors, as long as the front still works, it shouldnt be a problem. or, if you can wait until spring or summer to fix it, just convert it to plain jane struts. ~Josh~

if it is making a fluttering sound then maybe you do have some crud in there. i remember cleaning mine out a while ago, all sorts of debris in there, from pine needles to dirt, even bees. under the glove box is a plastic flexible type duct that you can unhook form the heater core and blower motor housing. take the duct off and vacuum out the crap in there. while youre at it, take the fan out also and vacuum it out, and check your resistor pack too. chances are, if it still blows on all four speeds, it should be okay. ~Josh~

gots to love the D/R and S/R trannies with the selector lever. hell id go RWD just for the burnout factor, but not during winter. ~Josh~

it would work decent, the EJ22T heads flow about the same as the EJ18 heads, but watch out for more than 6 psi of boost(which might be stock for the EJ22T) and premium gas is a MUST. ~Josh~

for the love of god....think of your wheel bearings......the extra stance is nice, but remember, the suspension is designed to work at the stock level, you start messing with stuff and you could actually handle alot worse than you do now. now if your doing this mainly for improving your track, i can see the benefit, but think of your bearings in the near future. ~Josh~

thats the main reason i wanted an EJ22 in my car, for more power and fuel injection. i too like to go camping and snowboarding. it just was hell trying to get that EA82 up those hills, with 2 other people and gear it was hard as it is. now when i go boardin this year it shouldnt be a factor AT ALL!!!! just be sure to use the EJ22 header and exhaust piping, my stock EA82 stuff chokes the hell out of that EJ22 under the hood, or better yet, go 2.25'', but you still need to have all your cats, unfortunately. ~Josh~

if you have the motor pulled, have all the seals replaced, timing belt water pump, yada, yada.... as far a the separator plate, ya, you ownt really know if its leaking unless it is gushing oil, or dripping. for the most part, you might just be burning some other kind of fluid, but your best bet is that it is burning left over crud. the headgasket thing for the EJ22, at 150k if you havent had to do some kind of semi-major engine work, it is a blessing. that means the car went about 10 years worth of driving and didnt take a crap on you. sounds like a good deal to me. ~Josh~

hold on there sport, i beleive the only single port heads every used on the EJ22 were in impreza cars, if the motor was from a legacy, the heads are dual port, take a look to double check. as for the EGR pipe on the new motor, grab the pipe and buy a copper plug for it and solder it on, or just kink it, then smash it so it compresses and wont let exhaust fumes through it. ~Josh~

if you do a 5-lug swap at the same time you will save yourself some pain and suffering if/when you do this. that way you can use the stock wrx axles since they are 25 spline also, should slap right in. the driveline, ya shortened but no biggy. and as always match your front diff ratio to your rear diff ratio......yada...yada...yada....and no way in hell would the EA tranny hold up to an EJ20 turbo motor, a EJ20 in N/A form sure no prob, but not the wrx motor. i bet you would either twist the input shaft(or snap it off altogether) or go through gears like there is no tommorow. ~Josh~

i plan on running oversized(not by much) tires, and would love to be able to make my own speedometer.........................maybe ill give it a shot.................. ~Josh~