ballitch

need not forget the toyota rims, 15'' alloy, and steel, and more plentiful, as well as cheaper. ~Josh~

odnt they have the EXACT same motor, the EJ20? if so, then guess what bolts on, wrx aftermarket stuff. from what ive read from various caqr magazines, the saab has a little bit better handling than the wrx, but is a little bit slower. if oyu can get one for cheaper than a wrx, throw the extra $2000 into performance parts, suspension goodies(like sway bars, and lowering springs) and kick some twisty-road A$$!!!!! ~Josh~

no.......morgan had it right....EFI is better.............

just go to the JY and steal one, oh btw, the crank and cam sensors are the SAME!!!! ...........on EJ motors.........

theres no need to fear, underdog is here!!!!!!!!!!

oh and it cost me $40 to do all but the back window................and 3 hours of my time. ~Josh~

i did my own tint (20%) in my 98 legay sedan, i didnt do the back window, i wanted the police to be able to see in from the back, makes them feel safer or some crap. i bought this stuff at lowe's, its called GILA WINDOW TINTING SPRAY its a lotion/water/oil solution stuff that allows you to move the tint around after it contacts the window, then oyu use the supplied squeegies to ghet all the excess lotion/water solution from between the window tint and the glass, and let dry for 3 days without rolling down windows. ive had it for like a year and a half, no bubbles and no polarized looking "spots" on it at all. just some scratches from toolbelt and stuff. it also helps to do this in a garage with no wind, if you do it outside on a windy day, your going to kill someone with your temper. ~Josh~

i bought my EJ22 for $400 and harness with ecu for $120, then i spent like $280 for 2 sets of XT-6 clutch kits, not to mention the about $150 for the 2 adapter plates i made and the cost of various trips to the JY. so add that up and you get about $950-$1,000 for the swap, and i did all the fab work with my dad. if i were to do it again, i would do the swap into an 88 sedan FWD, swap the EJ22 into it and the 5 speed D/R 4WD drivetrain, that way i would only be paying insurance on a FWD 1.8L car. and it would be about 200 lbs lighter, but wouldnt have the cargo room.........i like cargo room........but for rally the sedan would prove to be better id think. and throw the 5 lug suspension on it for better brakes, springs, and sway bar. or you could do the SPFI swap, still 1.8L but with EFI, its a little bit easier to do than the EJ22 swap, but i believe that you still have to strip a harness apart, just not as a confusing harness, not as many sensors. ~Josh~

hmm.......i might have to jump on this bandwagon......after i see if your cars blow up!!!!..........j/k ~Josh~

im sure there are lots of engine swaps that are possible, you could try, dare i say, a honda motor, or perhaps a toyota motor. Problem is, our cars were designed for the layout of a horizontally opposed engine, the engine-bay is not that long, but is wide. so fitting a transverse mounted enigne would prove to be a decent replacement. but would require much fabrication to fit non-subaru motor mounts into. do some searching, and thinking, there are plenty of options, i for one say go for EFI, and for more than 100 ponies. ~Josh~

i agree with the two above, you have people here that can answer any questions you have regarding suspension. its taking time out of your life, why shouldnt you come out ahead? ~Josh~

since you need a press to put the new bearing in, that means paying for shop time hours and all that jazz, it would probably be the same cost to just get a reman. one or one from a JY or something, check to make sure your axle nut is torqued down all the way, i have a 98 legacy sedan that "had" a front left bearing going south, just tightened up the loose axle nut, and behold. fixed. ~Josh~

you can use your stock sturts, or get new ones, but it seems that the RX springs are the same height, just have better spring rate and stiffness. ~Josh~

what car is this going onto, i just did this mod, and the springs are WAY too stiff, the car only lowers about an inch and a half when the weight is on the tires. there is basically no suspension, its all bouncy and and no cornering at all, too stiff. ~Josh~

10 mm is close to 7/16'' right? cant you just drill out the heli coil a little bit, then put in a 7/16'' bolt after you tap the heli coil to 7/16''? ~Josh~

thats some good b.s. there bjwirth, honestly i dont know either, maybe warmewr climate loosens some connection, wiggle things a bit and see what happens. ~Josh~

isnt the EJ22T DOHC?

and were do you get a two row rad anyway? ~Josh~

cool, now oyu just have to swpa oyur springs onto the new struts, have fun its not very exciting, i paid les schwab to put springs on my new struts. ~Josh~

rear diffs are like fat girls man, its whats on the inside that counts. ~Josh~

ya man youre getting hosed, go to someone that does just a/c or like meineke, or shcucks or someplace somewhat reputable. if at all possible, dont got to the dealer ever, unless you just cant get the part, they love your money. ~Josh~

22mm sounds right, standard bolt righty tighty lefty lucy. i like that idea, but breaker bar on frame rail and turn over engine, just unplug the engine harness plugs, they should be behind the motor, that will keep it from starting. ~Josh~

i agree legacy777, need mo info. ~Josh~

i say possible heater core blockage, or kinks in heater hoses or compressed piping, the metal ones under the intake? aftermarket gauge will tell you, plug it in and then get a refund for it lol. ~Josh~

thats what i did, i dont think that the EJ22 harness is that much more complicated than a EA82T harness. ~Josh~