ballitch

good deal man........really nice condition too, not many bent fins...... ~Josh~

there really isnt any standard for small machine work is there? LOL! Anyway, i say as long as you shut car off and didnt overheat it, and took head off without scratching the crap out of the mating surface, resurface the darn thing and put her back in. Rule of thumb is, is you dont overheat aluminum heads, then you really shouldnt have to do too much to them, unless your coolant was dumping out the head onto the ground... ~Josh~

if you weld the rear diff, you can have one-wheel drive....no fornt axles, and missing one in back. but dont weld the rear diff please, a little dangerous, besides, didnt you make it RWD to get rid of understeer? ~Josh~

since shes already paying to have the motor pulled and clutch replaced, might as well tack on another $30 for the parts and labor to do it while its out, and make sure to check those two plastic/aluminum plates back there also, they can leak too. ~Josh~

well dont take my word for it, do some research first, i might be talking out my A$$. ~Josh~

dude jump on it, just use the newer style head gaskets and throw on some EJ22 heads. 11:1 CR!!!! ~Josh~

the 195's are one inch smaller in diameter, which is a 3.7% difference try this site ~Josh~

rule is, with carb motors running and timing light in hand, twist one way, if it speeds the idle up, that way is advance, no need to get too technical, after all, it IS outdated technology..............uh oh.......HERE THEY COME!!!!! j/k ~Josh~

depends on the difference in tread height really, to far out from the others, could cause a problem. ~Josh~

plumbing in a "T" at the highest rad. hose or heater core tubing is a good idea, i was gonna try that but said screw it. on legacy's previously mentioned, there is a bleed screw, loosen it and ijack up car about 16'' in front, fill and work the air bubbles out. ~Josh~

i would have used 12mm aluminum...but all i could find around town was 1/2'', after all 1/2'' is 12.700 mm...not to far off. works great. hope to see more EJ converted rides at WCSS7. ~Josh~

thats the part thats gettin me stumped, he didnt do much outside of what i said in previous post. but the swap worked for one day correct? ~Josh~

but he didnt do any cutting and splicing? because basically all he did was.......not much..... just throw the ej22 block and heads underneath the ej18 intake and wiring, should work just fine. clearly not the case. i havent got a clue form the details you gave me..........gimme some time to think on it.....or wait for legacy777 to chime in. ~Josh~

the good old stand-by, EJ22. 2.2 liter aluminum block and head horizontally oppossed single over-head cam engine, with dual port exhaust and 19 cats in the exhaust............j/k ~Josh~

Are the ABS hubs different? If so.......hmm, i have a bad front left bearing, i can move the wheel like 1.5'' either way, not good. ~Josh~

since the TD04 is a bigger turbo, and your not adding displacement, your loosing it, TD04 is made for 2.0 litre motor, it will spool somewhere around 4k to 4.5k on the tach id say, i remember seeing that somewhere here......... but you will have fuel problems, not enough fuel. and you will have a fuel cut at higher than stock boost levels, somewhere around 10 psi or something, a bunch of people have done it and gotten aroung the fuel cut gremlin. do some research, its on here somewhere. ~Josh~

if you got your harness out of a 1990-1994 car, and have 4 yellow plugs that go into the ecu, the plug with 16 wires, or 16 spaces for wires, it is pin 16 on plug B56. if you pm me you email addy, ill send you the 1990-1994 FSM ECU pages, it might help you out. ~Josh~

since you basically have the exact same motor as the RS, it should fit in there just fine, were you going to get the AVO kit? you might have better advice coming from nasioc forum, alot more new-gen oriented peeps over there, especially if your talkin turbo. ~Josh~

since there is alot more aftermarket support for your car than say, a brat, you should take this opportunity to buy a heavy duty pressure plate and clutch, one that will last longer for your driving style. try this.

when i fill my radiator i fill as much coolant as possible in first, then drive to the nearest hill, with at least a 30 degree angle and park. with the car running i fill the radiator, i found that raising the front of the car 16'' isnt enough so that is what i do. this way the heater core gets filled first and radiator last, and make sure to let car run for a bit on hill after you think all the air is out, chances are there will be more. if you still have overheating issues, it might be something else, such as head gaskets. ~Josh~

DO NOT USE THE FUSE!!!! unless of course you absolutely have to, it is there for emergencies only, not for saving $200 in gas over the summer for the price of a $700 transmission or rebuild. not a good ideal, if you really want that kind of control over your car's power-to-wheel- delivery, go oldschool baby!!!!! ~Josh~

youre going to need a dual range (EA82) flywheel and pressure plate and clutch disc, you need basically everything that a normal EJ22 conversion needs, but like noah said, youre swapping trannies instead of motors. except for the whole wiring nightmare, you wont have to endure that one. ~Josh~

i think you should leave the bike with the rents' and fly back just before WCSS7 and make your appearance and after the show go on a nice long bike ride thru the country. you can never have enough ride time on a crotch-rocket.... ~Josh~

i guess that settles it......ill get my grubbies on some RX front springs. ~Josh~

just make sure to use centering punches to get the perfect center of your soon to be new lug bolt hole, and so the drill bit doesnt make its own hole. ~Josh~