TheSubaruJunkie

Looks good, what software are you using to edit your video? -Brian

Yeah, in that aspect your right. I would love to have a grease insert and re-grease and re-seal the bearings every other month. You would still have to pull the rotor and the CV through the hub to replace both seals... but its definatly less time consuming than pressing (or pounding, depends on how you do it) new bearings into the hub. And i do stand corrected. Properly installed bearings, in the perfect driving conditions should never fail. Just look at the Subaru rear wheel bearings, ive never replaced a single one. -Brian

With the seals on the hub, putting more grease in contaminated grease, would only trab bad grease mixed with good. That and blow the seals out, making the bearings prone to further damage. When i was working at United Rentals, our parts room had a TON of different sized grease nippes, or zirts, or whatever they're called. Im sure if you found one with a pretty small thread insert, you could drill a small hole without jepordizing the hub itself. I think if there was one installed, the best way to re-grease the bearings would be to remove the hub and outter seal, regrease pushing all the old contaminated grease out, and then re-installing new seals. -Brian

We can go on the 6th, thats cool too. -Brian

Dont forget BOARDING IN TAHOE on Jan 7th I got 2 co-workers that wanna go too. Best of luck with the trip, hope everything works out. See you in a couple weeks. -Brian

Mine was done on a EA81. Would imagine a higher CR would compliment the better spark. Not willing to pull my heads just yet to have them shaved tho. -Brian

At the moment, i dont believe Subaru bearings need to be re-greased. If properly greased and sealed upon initial install, you should have no reason to regrease until they fail and need to be replaced. -Brian

Well, if all 4 plugs are getting spark, then its probably the plugs. Unless the heads are cracked or the gaskets are bad. If thats the case, there will be no compression, and the fuel will not ignite. -Brian

My intermittent wipers on the '86 Brat never work right. It's either on, or off... and sometimes even off doesnt work. Its intermittent tho. Sometimes they will go intermittently... then other times they will just keep going and going and never stop. I usually have to put the switch somewhere in between Intermittent and slow to get them to stop. Ive beat the switch and it never works, what else controls my wiper motors that could cause this? -Brian

I put new NGK's with some 8mm accel wires and the Accel super-stock coil. Regapped my NGK's to something like .050. Throttle responce was alittle better, but the most noticeable difference was the way the car pulled through gears in the higher rev's. It seemed to have more power and didnt lag like a dog above 3500rpm like before. -Brian

Dude... your in Alaska... the capitol of cold I grew up there. It could be worse, it could be 114. -Brian

I would be worried about weakening the spindle. Would also recommend a drill press to ensure the hole is straight and even. Its a great idea, wish I had some grease nipples for my hubs, but i would probably hit something and break them off, or they would be so covered in dirt and mud i would never be able to use them. -Brian

Yeah, .mov files are hard to play on a PC unless you have Quicktime. Austin, is there any way you can encode your videos using MPEG? Also, is that a real turbo? Or do you just have turbo mirrors. -Brian

Depends. The very 1st Subaru wasnt a car, it was a Rabbit. 2 wheel scooter made by FHI. The 1st car was made by FHI and it was named the P1, but then code named the Subaru. At which Subaru was born and started producing 360's, ff1's etc.... -Brian

Gearing kinda sucks afterward. You will get a very good example after you visit ken tho. Even after the loss in gearing, and the loss in freeway power, i still think its more than worth it. Always best to have one for the street... and one for the woods. -Brian

Where'd you get the hatch? Didnt think any of them made it overseas. Are they RHD? -Brian

Walk up to the junkyard owner with 2 $20's and a $10, and tell him he wont get a better deal cause there are no other subaru owners within a 2 hour radius. See if he sais no to your $50 -Brian

Depends on the yard. I bought my brushguard for $17. I got my Pushbar for free. Ive usually bought Pushbars for aprox $30 and ive bought 2 full size brushguards. one was $40, the other was $17. $85 is WAY too much for a junkyard part, no matter what it is... except engines or something. -Brian

This link might help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/pushbar/pushbar.html Which one is it? You can also see the differences between the long and short style A Bars -Brian

Where's it at? I need a new guard. Is it the entire guard? -Brian

Got a picture of it? The A pushbuar looks like an A. Just covers the grill, and is just a pushbar per-say. It doesnt protect your lights. Like what i have on my Brat The full size brush guard is the type that i have on my lifted Wagon. It is a full size brush guard that protects the headlights and the grill. Regardless, they should all fit no matter what the bumper is. The long style A pushbar is harder to fit to Subaru's with the plastic front bumpers, but can still be done. -Brian

Post 85 EA81's should all have plastic bumpers, regardless of 2WD or 4WD. STD Hatchbacks on the otherhand might not. Also, depends on which brushguard. if its a full size brushguard like mine, it will mount to any subaru... ive even test fitted it to the EA82 line. If its a A style pushbar, then it becomes complicated since there are 2 types of pushbars. Best way to find out, is to try. -Brian

Yup, as long as they have the same front end, and your not talking about a EA82 3 dr coupe. -Brian

Hows the snow up there? Heard you guys got upwards of 3' of fresh snow? I will probably be up there Wednesday or thursday playing in it. Maybe we can organize a small get together? -Brian

BA HUMBUG! Its not till tomorrow anyways -Brian