TheSubaruJunkie

Well, if none of us drive our brats, then there will be no third person. Meaning, the 1st person to drive their brat will be that 3rd person. Somebody better become the 3rd person soon, cause I have to drive home from work in 2 hours.... and the way ppl drive here in Cali I think my chances are good that I might become the 3rd -Brian

Can you fill the stub with metal of some sort? Maybe weld it full so its no longer hollow? I dont weld, so maybe im misunderstanding the entire operation. -Brian

MIKE! Sup dude? I guess you changed your nickname. Im plannin a trip down to SoCal soon, we'll talk about it more over IM. late -Brian

Very nice Ive been thinking of making a trip down there in the near future. Im not too far away in Sacramento. What year and model is the sube? -Brian

Gen3 would be reffering to EA82 between 1985 to 1990. Would also include Loyales up until '92 or whenever. We try to associate them with the engine codes. EA71, EA81, EA82, then anything after that is EJ series, and that is handled by the other forum. If your car is a '82, then it has a EA81 and is a Gen2. -Brian

Yeah, wish it had the 1600cc FSM -Brian

Kevin, and everyone else having problems... These will be available on the USRM very soon. As soon as I have them downloaded, i will make sure the PDF format is avail from the Repair Manual. Thanks for the link -Brian

Matt, your on the right track. And im sorry for the way I reacted in the past. You need to make sure at the very minimum you've done a complete tune-up. If the plugs are old, replace them. Cap and rotor included. Here in California, they'll fail you if your timing is out of spec, so im not sure if the timing trick will work. Count yourself lucky you get free re-tests. Here, if you fail, you have to pay MORE the next time. And if you fail and the car is too much of a gross polluter, then they mark it in the computer and the DMV charges ALOT more for you to re-register the car.. no matter how clean it runs after its tested. Keep on it. -Brian

Grew up in Wasilla until i was 14, then i moved to Anchorage where i stayed until I was 20. I am now in California, 3 years later -Brian

Maybe you could restrict the actual water flow by kinking the hose alittle?? I could be wrong, but that might help the car warm up. I dont miss that at all. I grew up in Alaska, and when I was younger I always wondered why nobody would remove the cardboard that got stuck to their car once I was old enough to drive i quickly realized why *BUUUURRRRRR* You shouldnt have any trouble with covering the whole radiator with cardboard... just make sure it doesnt catch on fire. -Brian

Stop crying Matt. The car you have is MINT! Its one of the only running EA81T's ive heard of. Washington emissions cannot be THAT bad. Hell, if Eric can get a EA81 with a 32/36 weber to pass smog, im sure you (or someone who actually knows how to work on a subaru) can get it to pass. Here are a few ideas: Make sure your idle is within spec's Make sure your timing is within spec's Make sure ALL of your exhaust is 100%! The turbo might have a cat before turbo, and one after the turbo. Make sure they are good and not clogged. Also, drive the car for an hour or so, get the catalytic converters good and hot before it is tested.... they work better the hotter they are. And stop whining! If you dont like the car, sell it. If you want a carb'd wagon to lift... buy one. Don't ruin a perfect EA81T Wagon. -Brian

Set the timing to spec's. Also, you might want to replace the coil. I had a problem similar to this with my '84 Wagon, i replaced everything and even went and bought a new distributor (not cheap) and before I replaced the disty, i replaced the coil and it solved the problem. Since you said you poured fuel into the carb and it picked up, maybe it could be a fuel filter or pump problem. But youve replaced those... so i doubt it was that. -Brian

Check it again, make sure ALL the moisture is out. Chances are there is still more water inside the disty. Keep at it. Are you getting spark to the plugs? Pull one of the plugs, ground it out and with someone cranking the engine check to see if that plug is sparking. Be careful. Might want to hold onto the plug wire with a pair of needle nose plyers and wear a pair of kitchen gloves (the rubber kind) hehehe... or just make sure your not standing in water. Since you drove through a puddle and stalled the car, chances are its the disty. Cant think of anything else. -Brian

Pull your distributor cap. Youve got water in there. Clean as much as you can out with a paper towel. Then it should start right up. Chances are, it will die again soon. There is moisture in there, and as soon as it evaperates it will collect at the top of the cap. Just pull it again, clean it out, and she'll start right up once again. Ive heard WD40 works great as well for drying out the disty. Ive never done it myself, but I should carry a can of WD40 cause im always getting water in the disty. -Brian

The A/C Fan on both of my EA81's will only kick on if: The switch on the dash has to be in an A/C position (either AC Max, AC or Defroster) AND the headlights have to be off. Dash lights can be on, but if my headlights are on my A/C fan will not turn on. Not sure if the same apply's to EA82's -Brian

To keep things simple, i would just throw a EA81 in there. -Brian

Already have. Doesnt seem to do any good. -Brian

Mine does the same. In the Brat, the voltmeter never shows anything above 12 unless ive been driving for a while. With my blinkers on, the needle will bounce up and down alot. I believe it might be my battery. Ive put 2 alternators in and it hasnt changed. -Brian

Yeah, my main concerns were the lights on the brushguard and my tires. Those are worth more than a fender and hood anyday -Brian

Might be able to find someone to trade with. IF you were closer, i would trade my 14" pug alloys for your redrilled toyo rims in a heartbeat. I saw that wagon in person at Johns shop, and those rims are very sharp. Honestly, you have absolutly nothing to worry about. The wieght of the wheel rests on the center of the hub. And as long as your lug nuts and studs are in good condition you really dont have much to worry about. If your that paranoid, the cheaper and probably better option would be to have some new, larger studs pressed into your hubs, and use larger, stronger lug nuts to hold the rims on. That should be enough to hold anything to your car. -Brian

Oh!!! A Baja! I thought he meant like BAHAHHAHAHA (kinda a evil laugh). Are they making turbo Baja's now? I know there's a pic of a lifted Baja somewhere that some custom place did. -Brian

I know someone who is lifting a EA81 Turbo Wagon. He's in the process of putting a D/R FT4WD 5spd in it as well. Is your friend doing a EA81 or an EA82 Zap? -Brian

Why do you need to worry, didnt your wagon come with redrilled toyota rims? -Brian

Here's a pic of the Accel wires and coil in my brat: I dont think i'll ever go back to regular 7mm or 7.5mm wires. And since the V8 set came with 8 wires, i have 4 extra to go into my wagon as well -Brian

I got a set of 8mm Accel super stock wires. I had to buy the "cut your own size" set for a V8. Cost me about $27, which is a hell of a deal considering 7.5mm Autolites are usually $30 anyway's. It was very simple to cut the wires to length, and made it look real nice under the hood. Also the wires were yellow, and that helped. I got them when i got my Accel superstock coil, and also regapped my plugs to .050". There is a noticeable difference when the car is climbing through the gears. In 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear, i can accelerate alot faster through the gears, in 4th its still kinda sluggish but this is on my EA81 with a 4spd. The magnacore's are a good wire, but i cant find them anywhere except on the net. I was able to buy my Accel's from AutoZone, and i have 4 extra cause I bought a V8 set and only used 4 wires. -Brian