TheSubaruJunkie

Pictures will help in this case. If it is 100% rust free (and i mean RUST FREE) and all the body panels match. You can expect to see at least $2000 in todays e-bay market. If it runs great and has less than 100,000 miles add another $750-$1000. If you have had it garaged for the past 20 years add another $3000. If its a bucket, dont expect any more than an average EA81. >$1000 -Brian

I sold it to buy my turbo legacy. I didnt want to fight california smog anymore, and the EA82T was so far modified I knew it wouldnt pass. So i bought a car I knew would. I sold it to some kid on craigslist. Last i heard, he sold it again... and I havent seen it since

Yeah, i miss that car. Sometimes wish i never sold it.

Crank angle sensor??

You can use the carbbed block with the turbo heads and turbo junk to make alittle more low end power. Intercooling and propper tuning is a must. Also, I believe the fuel lines in the turbo car are going to be higher pressure than the carbbed, so you would need to swap the lines as well. If the motor is bad, just get a complete gasket kit from felpro. Tear it down and rebuild using your carbbed block. Keep the boos low and you should have alot of fun.

I ran the 205/60R13 Sumimoto's on my RX with these rims: I dont think these rims are any wider than the stock 13" steels you posted. I dont think you will have any problems. -Brian

You can weld just about anything. However, you will find steering very difficult with a welded wear end in the snow. The rear will over power the front... however, you will be unstoppable. -Brian

My buddies Girlfriend is too affraid to take her Digital out into the woods... so she usually brings 2 or 3 disposable camera's. I bought the truck with the shocks setup like that. I guess I cant complain. In that pic you quoted, I backed into the water. Then put the truck in 2WD and dumped the clutch I am sitting in sand, and I knew exactly what was going to happen. After having alittle fun, I put the truck back into 4WD Low and then the front started to dig. After alittle fancy clutchwork, i was able to walk out of the hole. Was still a blast. -Brian

I thought the same once, until I got my parents jeep stuck. The part time 4WD works the same as the Subaru's Dual Range 4WD system. But the center of gravity being so much higher really screws you in snow. I didnt think it made that big of a difference, until I tried to drive through 3' of powder... and not only got stuck but dug some really nasty ruts with the 33" tires i had at the time. But the new jeeps with their Sensatrac system works kinda like Subaru's AWD system. -Brian

Cole you need to do some research and find out the differences between AWD and 4WD. Then it will be easier for you to decide which you would preffer. the Dual Range 4WD will be better if you are driving in deep snow. If you are driving on pavement and wet pavement than the AWD would be better. 4WD and AWD are near identical, except 4WD has no center diff so your front and rear axles are recieving 50/50 front and rear. AWD has an open center diff so you can get 100/0, 70/30, 50/50, etc... depending on which wheels have more traction. In snow, it can leave you stranded. Your better off keeping your Dual Range 4WD. -Brian p.s. Some more advanced Subaru AWD systems have variable control center diff's which will direct more power to the front or rear. And some EA82's with Full Time 4WD (Early AWD) have locking center diff's which are equal to the Dual Range 4WD when locked.

So I finally got the 35mm shots and scanned them into the PC. And I took the 24min video and cut it down to two shorter video's. One video is footage of just me, and the other video is footage of my buddy: ME: Buddy: Here are the shots his GF took with the disposable camera: Cant wait till next year!

I ran my EA82T with no problems at 9.5:1. It was a worth while upgrade for the turbo EA82, just dont over-do it with the boost. However, if you are planning on keeping your EA82 naturally aspirated then I wouldnt bother swapping SPFI to MPFI.

I read on a Toyota forum that the Accel coils were not designed to be mounted horizontally. And that is what usually leads to premature failure. They were designed for VW Bug guys and mean to be mounted vertical. That maybe why we're having so many problems.

Mick had that car and put the decals on it. IIRC he also hit a deer and messed up the pushbar, but mick being the Subaru master he is... fixed it and you can never tell it ever happend. He sold it to someone else on the board, who is a member. Not sure who it belongs to now, but your car is well known by the USMB locals. -Brian

I thought 1985 only saw EA82 sedans and wagons and in 1986 they introduced the 3 door coupe. The 1985 Sales Brochure doesnt picture or mention the 3dr coupe: http://usmb.net/gallery/album78 But I do stand corrected, the 1989 Brochure does have the hatchback and the 3dr coupe: http://usmb.net/gallery/album82 Guess Im getting alittle rusty on my old-school. -Brian

Well, using Craigslist you will need to search each individual city for them. In the USA they were never reffered to as Chaser. Usually in Canada, but in the USA they are known as a 2 door hatchback. They were manufactured from 1981 until 1987. Here's the kicker. In 1986 Subaru changed over to the EA82 and they offered a 2 door coupe which can also be reffered to as a hatchback by some. It seems like Crazedlist.org is being kinda funny right now. Not wanting to work for me either

Im going to place my vote for the Ignition Coil. Had problems like this when mine was failing. I coulda swore it was bad fuel filters cause of the symptoms, but replacing them had no effect. On a hunch I replaced the coil and all was better. Problems I was experiencing were noticable at the top of 2nd gear, almost all of 3rd and 4th gear. Car would accelerate up to 3000-3200rpm, anything after that and the car would cut out, buck and refuse to accelerate. I could baby it up to 4000rpm if I did it with a very light foot. Maintaining 65mph was a struggle, and forget climbing any inclines. Ive also had the same symptoms with my RX and my Legacy which turned out to be a faulty plug. Problem returned on my Legacy and I found it was a damaged plug wire. -Brian

You think thats crazy. look at these dumbsht's!! Thats what I call off-roading. I guess they dont have an EPA over there in Russia.

Every single one of them The states where Subaru's are most popular would be Washington, Oregon, Colorado, Alaska. But they are everywhere, so the search will be extensive. There is another website, http://www.crazedlist.org where you can search multiple cities for the same thing at once.

Just a tip, try and locate a hatch on the West Coast. The ones on the east coast seem to have rust problems.

Even with a 1/4" drive ratchet you can over tighten the valve covers and bend them. A torque wrench usually wont go low enough to the specified EA81 torque requirements. I tried once, and it didnt turn out good at all. Now, i use a good coat of gasket sealer on each side of the valve cover gasket and tighten the bolts just enough to hold everything together. After it cures I usually go back and give everything another 1/8th turn to snug things up. -Brian and p.s. General Disorder is a "know it all" Do a search for his posts, and i dont think he's ever had to be corrected in any of his arguments (and there are plenty)

Ah, nevermind. I just got your return email. THat 22B is a beauty!! For everyone else: http://www.ozcarsightings.com/subaru22bphotoshoot.php -Brian

Glad you found us. Lets see some pix of that 22B.

did you connect the throttle cable? If so, disconnect it and see if the idle drops. When I installed my weber, it idled at 4k but thats cause there was too much tension on the throttle cable. I had to bend the cable bracket alittle to relieve the tension.

Man, its so great to finally see those fenders getting some use!! That brat is lookin good