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TheSubaruJunkie

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Everything posted by TheSubaruJunkie

  1. Rotate the axle so you pound on the side that doesnt have the broken nail in it. Drive it out the other direction with the correct tool. Enough lubrication and force should work. -Brian
  2. Thats awesome, now come up here and drag this hatch carcass I have out of my garage and take it home -Brian
  3. Actually... Full Time 4WD is the same as All Wheel Drive. They both use a center differential and power all 4 wheels all the time. Selectable 4WD is not AWD. -Brian
  4. Yeah, propper tools FTW! Screw drivers, nailes and other gadgets just make the job harder and take 10x longer. Get a punch from harbor frieght for like $4 and be done with it. -Brian
  5. Too bad your in australia... i have a '84 Hatchback sitting in my garage that im parting out. Has all the glass on it still. -Brian
  6. Clay, make sure your lugnuts are good and tight!! Good to see your still alive. -Brian
  7. Step 1: Sell the subaru Step 2: Buy a Samarai or Toyota. Dalton, there is no easy fix for your suspension. You are stuck with what you got. Breaking axles isnt the problem... its keeping your camber. The engineering it would take to get shocks with 10" of travel and a smooth ride, and also giving you enough flex to keep your rear tires on the ground when climbing trenches would cost you thousands. Now you know why i dont have my hatchback anymore :-\ -Brian
  8. is that 1/2 lb of PSI? Does it make anymore boost than that? If not, the turbo sounds fried. You should be making like 6-7psi at max boost. -Brian
  9. I would go with remans on the rear. Rear CV's last forever since there is no turning of the outside cup. However, the fronts go all the time. I have a set of GCK axles for my EA81 and i loved them. Ive gone through pairs and pairs of reman axles, these GCK's are brand new and not much more expensive. -Brian
  10. I'd show off all the cool things ive been doin, but i get a bunch of crap when i post about toyota's. -Brian
  11. Naw dude. You made the right decision. A $75 subaru like that only starts at $75. Then by the time you work on it enough to get it to pass smog youve wasted $500 and weeks of your time. Just use the leggy or the EA82T you got. -Brian
  12. Anchorage Alaska has far more subaru's than any other state in the US. Expecially per capita. Condisering Alaska has maybe 750,000 in the entire state. Then there is Washington State and Oregon which probably have more than northern california as well. -Brian
  13. These mods wont hurt the motor, only help. But i guess since its your dads car its hard to talk him into it. -Brian
  14. Check the junkyards, or even Ebay for a Saab 900 Intercooler. They are a good intercooler to use on the EA82. Not too big, but not small. And the outlet is the same diameter as your intake manifolds inlet. The one thing you need to plumb is a ByPass Valve (BPV). The EA82T stock does not have a BPV or a BOV, but after you install an intercooler its important you use one. The Saab 900 uses a bosch BPV that will work. its what I used. Here are some pictures of my intercooler install on my RX: Your intake is 2 3/8" outside diameter. And so is the Saab Intercoolers Inlet & outlet. I searched the internet for 2 3/8" outside diameter 180 degree mandrel bends. I was able to order two 180 degree bends for like $18 shipped to my door. Then i cut them in half to make four 90 degree bends. Then i ordered some silicone couplers that are 2 3/8" inside diameter from TurboHoses.com (prolly like $30 or so) and began to piece everything together. The biggest problem is the oulet from the turbocharger is something like 2 1/4" (i cant remember off the top of my head) so finding a reducer to go from 2 3/8" to 2.25, or maybe 1.75 (like i said, cant remember the turbo outlet) was a pain. I ended up using some rubber plumbers reducer I got at Home Depot, and it didnt like the turbo temps all that much. I would recommend something different. Are you familiar on how BPV's work and where everything needs to be plumbed? -Brian p.s. There are plenty more pictures here: http://gallery.usmb.net/album19
  15. Thats what they ALL say An exhaust is the best thing you can do to that motor. That and an Intercooler with a good intake. Definatly at least do the intercooler to keep your temps down. -Brian
  16. I had a RX with a EA82T in it. Was fun, then i started to modify it. Intake... Exhaust.... up the boost with a manual boost controller. They are good motors stock, but if you start trying to make real power, you run into problems like this: But luckily they are easy to rebuild too -Brian
  17. Perform an oil change before you do the test. Also make sure everything is stock. Timing etc. New plugs never hurt, but unless you have spark problems probably wont help as much as the oil change. Also make sure you drive the car for a while before taking it to the tester. Get your catalytic converter good and hot. Sometimes if the shop is busy your car will sit for a while, so maybe try to go on a wednesday morning or some off-day when there is no one there and you can get right in. The hotter your cat is, the better. -Brian
  18. There's a white brat sitting in a driveway less than a block from my house. Have been living in this place for 2 years and never seen it before last week so Im assuming the owner just bought it. I agree, you dont see many brats. Grass Valley has more EA81 Subarus than Sacramento though. Doubt the owner is on this board. Ive been thinking of stopping by the white brat's house and letting them know about this place. -Brian
  19. A slight change in plans... Im not going to be able to make it this year The gas prices are too much for me and the trip there and back will put me at almost $400. If I didnt have bills piled up and two tool trucks asking for payment I would definatly be up there. But this time of year is no good for me. Sucks cause I sold my tires to a member in Portland, and expected to be able to deliver them to him this weekend. So, Mike... think you'll have room in your Brat for a set of 27" Mud Terrains? Hit me up on AIM if you can and let me know. -Brian
  20. So if you recommend not hitting the threaded portion... what do you suggest you smack with the hammer? -Brian
  21. Coolant will get everywhere. Its a good idea to drain your radiator before you start. -Brian
  22. One thing I would add... When pounding the tie rod out of the steering knuckle. Re-install the castle nut upside down so you dont screw up the threads. Not everyone has a brass hammer. And it doesnt "take a lot to damage what you are wailing on" I've damaged my tie rod ends before and it turns a 2hour wheel bearing job into a 6 hour 'run to the junkyard and get another tie rod and add $60 for an alignment afterwards' job. Other than that. This is a great write-up! +1 for the USRM. -Brian

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