TheSubaruJunkie

They can look good and be bad. Do a continuity test on them, or just switch em around and see if your dash works again and something else stops. -Brian

Yeah i know i will need a custom driveshaft, and shift linkages. Since i will be running RWD, im not concerned about rear diff ratio's. I am also thinking of locking it into 4WD and doing away with the 2WD/4WD Levers. What im concerned with are the tranny mounts, how it will bolt to the frame... and of course the tunnel size. Is the 5spd bigger in size than the 4spd?

The EA81's and EA82's require only 1 nut and 1 bolt be removed. The nut holding the CV in (36mm castle nut). And a 14mm bolt that connects locks the ball joint into the steering knuckle. Both should be rust free and have no corrosion, if so... impact FTW! I grew up in Alaska, the north east has NOTHING on the salted roads of the '80's that is Alaska Believe me, i know all about rust and corrosion. -Brian

I hear the EA81 pretty much drops right in. I guess I cant use the stock trans, and why go with a 4spd when there are 5spds out there.. right? Curious if anyone knows what kind of complications Im looking at? I think im going to do a RWD conversion and forget about front CV's to keep things simple (and more fun). I know whats involved with bolting the 5spd to a EA81, but not sure what i gotta do to mount everything in a '78 chassi. -Brian

I hate when i do that. You can find the fuseables in a small box near the battery. -Brian

Yup, thats how you do it. Its even easier on a older subaru as there are no camber or alignment issues to worry about. -Brian

I WIN!!!

Enkei's are 13", The ones on that FF1 could possibly be 14" but i doubt they are 15's. I saw the 15's on your FF1 and they looked HUGE on that car. The ones in the picture dont look that big. On a car that small, even 13's look big

They Look like Enkei rims to me: Ive seen a few sets in my day, a couple here in California. If im not mistaken, i may have a friend in Reno with a set collecting dust. I might have to contact him -Brian

Just picked up a new toy that might need some wrenchin. Just dont know if it will make it there and back. -Brian

I think the proceeds are going to a charity in the family's honor.

LegacyCentral.org sais they will. The catless WRX downpipes are a popular upgrade for our cars. -Brian

I replaced all the plastic fittings with brass fittings (after they ALL broke one night) -Brian

Dont use your e-brake. You heat those suckers up, then lock them down with the front caliper and let them cool, you will most likely warp them the 1st time. Look nice though -Brian

I was thinking of this too. I have a EA81 and im going to want to put it in a '79 Wagon. I dont have the tranny, so what do i need to do to get it to mate to the '79 tranny and install it?

Definatly change your plug wires at least... and plugs are cheaper so do them both if you can. My 2.2T had a HORRIBLE misfire problem. Backfired too. I was stumped for days, so i decided to pull the plugs to see if I could tell which cylinder was the problem (by examining plugs). As soon as I pulled the plug wire from the #1 cylinder, it fell apart in my hand. Sometimes its just that easy, but other times you cant see the damage thats done. Definatly get new wires!!

Given propper maitenance the EA82T is as reliable as any Subaru motor. But if you try to get too much H.P. and race the thing, then dont get upset when it explodes in your hand. When the EA82T Blew in my RX, i rebuilt it using a stock SPFI block & pistons. They have a higher compression piston in them. Then i just bolted on the (rebuilt) RX heads and all the turbo goodies. I removed my boost controller but left the intercooler on. The car ran great and had good power. Perfect for getting me to work and back, but i was constantly being beat off the line by Hybrids and minivans. The car looked cool, just didnt perform as well as I'd like, and instead of blowing up a freshly built motor, i sold the car and bought a Legacy Turbo. Anyhow, I suggest the same if you are going to rebuild your motor. The stock RX turbo is good for 5lbs of boost stock (with a WRX or Saab Intercooler) or you will see around 7lbs w/out. The stock compression is 7.7:1 and the SPFI block will bring it up closer around 9:1. The higher compression removes any lag between stop & go and turbo spool. For $400 you cant go wrong. Hell, the rear diff and trans are worth that alone. -Brian

I ran 91 in my EA82T at all times. Anything less and it ran like crap. I didnt read a book or look for decals. I just used common knowledge. Turbo's require higher octane to prevent predetonation. If you don't have an intercooler I wouldnt recommend 85 or 87. Even if you do have an intercooler, spend the extra $0.10 a gal and get 91. -Brian

Its a rare car, a one of a kind. The transmission in that car wasnt offered in any other vehicle of its time. The Dual Range AWD with Center Diff Lock. Also came stock with a rear LSD. The 1.8 on the other hand is a turd. Dont expect to make power close to what your RS has. But the car is definatly alot of fun to drive. I had a '87 i did a few things to. The car would love to be thrown into corners. I miss the car, but i dont miss the lack of power. -Brian

Talk to you more about it on AIM.

Does saturday count as this week? Gonna try to get it before then.

Yeah steve did a great job on it. There will be more info in a different, upcomming thread. [/hijack]

Sold!

Not really. Turbo=HP. Supercharger = Torque. Neither are suitable for Off Road use... maybe the supercharger, but these small 1.8's will have a tough time with a Super Charger. Your best bet would be cams, higher compression and a weber. -Brian

You'll need to come to my house to see the '79