TheSubaruJunkie

WOW!!! That is the REAL BLING right there! You gonna roll around in your white fur pimp hat? but for real, that is sick. -Brian

It locks the transmission into the selected gear. Without it, the transmission shifts from the lowest gear to the gear you select. So if you put the transmission in "2" the car will start in 1st, shift to 2nd and stay there. If you put the car in "2" with the manual button on, the car will start in 2nd and will not shift out of 2nd unless you move the lever to 3. -Brian

Search google for caliper rebuilds. THere's some good step-by-step how-to's out there. The process is pretty simple. -Brian

Leave a note and see if he calls you. -Brian

Not sure what the whine would be. If you broke something, you would know for sure, as gears would stop working or 4WD would stop working. Ive done it on a few occasions. One time i was dumb enough to do it with a donut spare on the car... i didnt make it through the intersection before the tires locked up and the car refused to move. I had to lift the front of the car to releave the stress put on the axles and shift back into 2WD. A tranny flush would most likely take care of your whine. -Brian

NO! You should not drive on dry pavement. Your Subaru is part-time, and you risk damaging your transmission if you continue. The Full Time 4WD Subaru's, and the AWD Subaru's (pretty much the same exact thing) have a differential built into the transmission to allow the front & rear differentials to travel at different speeds, allowing you to drive on Pavement. Your Single Range 4WD Transmission, and the Dual Range Transmissions do not have a differential at all. They use a solid rod to connect the front and rear differentials, so they spin at the same speed at all times, and if you make a turn you bind the transmission and things start to lock up. It helps if all your tires are identical, but its still not safe. -Brian

As far as subaru engines go, you can get what you need from either the Legacy, Impreza or even the Forester. They all use the same EJ series motors. The EJ comes in 2.0, 2.2 and 2.5 liters. Any of them are capable of 250-300hp depending on how they are built. The 2.2 and the 2.5 came turbocharged in the USA. The 2.0 came turbo and twin turbo overseas. Cable shift? Maybe you are talking about Automatic transmissions then? Not 100% sure on that, but any Subaru Transmission should be able to handle 300hp better than a VW trans. Sounds like a cool project. -Brian

Not sure what the backspacing is on the different rims. Im sure they all differ, I ran Chevy Luv rims with no problems. ive heard of people running Toyota and nissan rims with no problems. THey will all work. -Brian

Yeah i was thinking of that. Thanks for the advice Jerry.

They all fit the same. -Brian

Sounds like they could use a rebuild. Thats far cheaper than buying new ones. -Brian

Buy new parts maybe??? You dont have very many options. KYB makes the GR2 for your car. Other than that, there are cheap options like Monroe and other OEM strut options. -Brian

I got weekends off. Sunday is out of the question cause I wanna check out your guys junkyards... so either Saturday or a Monday. I can pretty much get any day off I want cause im the man! -Brian

Is that right? Hum..... not sure if I want to rebuild the tranny tunnel.

Gotta sport the image with the big tires

Daniel, your brat looks great! Those rims are nice, and you cant find a better deal than that anywhere. If you wanna get some more agressive tires for the mud/snow, i still have these 27" kumho's mounted to 14" steels. Think you were lookin at them when you were here getting the LSD. -Brian

Who pays for porn anymore???

They can look good and be bad. Do a continuity test on them, or just switch em around and see if your dash works again and something else stops. -Brian

Yeah i know i will need a custom driveshaft, and shift linkages. Since i will be running RWD, im not concerned about rear diff ratio's. I am also thinking of locking it into 4WD and doing away with the 2WD/4WD Levers. What im concerned with are the tranny mounts, how it will bolt to the frame... and of course the tunnel size. Is the 5spd bigger in size than the 4spd?

The EA81's and EA82's require only 1 nut and 1 bolt be removed. The nut holding the CV in (36mm castle nut). And a 14mm bolt that connects locks the ball joint into the steering knuckle. Both should be rust free and have no corrosion, if so... impact FTW! I grew up in Alaska, the north east has NOTHING on the salted roads of the '80's that is Alaska Believe me, i know all about rust and corrosion. -Brian

I hear the EA81 pretty much drops right in. I guess I cant use the stock trans, and why go with a 4spd when there are 5spds out there.. right? Curious if anyone knows what kind of complications Im looking at? I think im going to do a RWD conversion and forget about front CV's to keep things simple (and more fun). I know whats involved with bolting the 5spd to a EA81, but not sure what i gotta do to mount everything in a '78 chassi. -Brian

I hate when i do that. You can find the fuseables in a small box near the battery. -Brian

Yup, thats how you do it. Its even easier on a older subaru as there are no camber or alignment issues to worry about. -Brian

I WIN!!!

Enkei's are 13", The ones on that FF1 could possibly be 14" but i doubt they are 15's. I saw the 15's on your FF1 and they looked HUGE on that car. The ones in the picture dont look that big. On a car that small, even 13's look big