TheSubaruJunkie

Sounds like you got 390mm tires and not 15". Same design, but they are metric and not standard. Tires are hard to find.

They are shorter than all of the other EA82 struts, so you get like 2" front drop.

Yeah i was going to link this but looks like im too late: You have to losen the bleeder valve to make things easier... and yes, bleed the brakes when you are done. -Brian

Dont know when, just getting a feel of how many people we got. It would be nice to see some new faces (and new cars).

Are you trying for Street or Off-road? YOU say the largest tire possible without rubbing, then go with the 14's. Or else you will be limited to tires that are too large.

Dude, thats a thread from like 3 years ago.... and there are no pix in it.

Andrew, to verify if you have a turbo ECU you can run the ECU scan program. It runs on any IBM in DOS Mode, just need to wire a LPT Port into the diagnostic port on the ECU wiring. http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/b10scan/ I went to Radio Shack and bought the LPT Port, then mounted it in my glove box. Then i ran the wiring to the Diagnostic port and hard wired it, instead of making an adapter. The software is great and displays a ton of info... including the ECU info. -Brian

Thanks tim, but you havent seen my tires have you? they look like racing slicks...

So Im thinking i better organize a run before the snow & rain starts to fall. We got anyone in here with a Legacy from Sacramento (or the surrounding area's)? Me and a couple locals usually run the Wentworth Loop, which goes from Auburn, to Georgetown, to Icehouse rd. and then Hwy 50 back to sac. -Brian

Does it have the LSD in it? Cause all 5spd Turbo '91's came with the LSD. There's a guy on LegacyCentral selling a 2.2 turbo kit, pistons, crank, everything you need to convert that 2.2 to a turbo. -Brian

Thats awesome, I cant wait to see this car and touch it. Then i can say im one of the few americans left who have touched a Subaru FF1. maybe if i sweet talk Steve he'll let me drive it when it gets running

this isnt one of those pictures where you have to stare at it until the 3D image pops out at you is it? Cause i almost lost my eyesight in 8th grade cause of one of those. -Brian

ROFL. Its a vicious circle Tim, we can never win.

Hope your buddies drive 2WD ford rangers

Heard it on Nasioc. Had to google it to make sure it wasnt some horrible joke. Its not http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1346998 http://news.scotsman.com/entertainment.cfm?id=1483222007 Wow im at a loss of words -Brian

If its Black smoke, that means its burning too much fuel. If its white smoke, that means its burning coolant. If its blue smoke, that means you are burning oil. If it is black, white & blue smoke, that means you have a serious problem somewhere, most likely internally. Brakes are easy -Brian

Yeah, ive done it with my hand too, but i forgot to warn in my previous post. Be careful cause it's a possibility the enigne will backfire, and if it backfires through the carb you just lost an eyebrow (at the least). So keep your head clear, and protect your hand with a glove or at least a rag of some sort. -Brian

Theres a trick to it. Start the car and let it warm up. Then when your under the hood, use the throttle linkage on the carburator and rev the motor to about 2000-2500 rpm and pour the MMO straight into the carb. DONT DO THIS IN THE GARAGE!! You may not even want to do it in your own neigborhood as HUGE PLUMES OF WHITE/BLUE SMOKE will billow out your tailpipe. I have smokescreened entire blocks with this stuff... but its for the good of the car, so dont let that bother you. Anyhow, as soon as you pour it into the carb, the car will start to choke itself out, keep it running using the throttle linkage. You pour until the car starts to choke and then stop the pour. Let the car burn through all the crap and then repeat. If the carburator is REALLY bad, use a piece of cardboard or a rag and with the motor revved, stuff the cardboard over the throttle body and attempt to kill the car... but dont let it die. As soon as its about to die, remove the cardboard and rev the car back to life. This will create a huge ammount of vacuum in the carburator itself and suck most of anything thats clogging the jets through. I used to do this to every EA81 i had right after purchase, and its always a night & day difference afterwards. -Brian p.s. Seafoam is also good stuff, but not as easy to find as the MMO

Instead of Carb cleaner, use Marvels Mystery Oil. Keep the can of carb cleaner and use it to look for vacuum leaks. -Brian

If you need another motor to break, i got one here Those oil pumps are a pain in the arse!!

Cool, glad they are willing to sell whole cars. They didnt give you a title when you got the brat? -Brian

More Power, SPFI options, Power steering. There are reasons they are better. Timing belts are probably the only reason they arent. -Brian

The EA81 will make it to 300,000+ if its been properly maintained.

Its a great choice for a trike. They are simple machines and run for a very long time. Your correct, it is a OHV with pushrods. That is the major difference between the 2. The EA81 and EA82 have the same displacement. They are both H4's. The EA81 Only came in a carburated form (unless you find a turbo EA81, but goodluck with that). The EA82 was offered with a Carb, SPFI and MPFI. There aren't many other differences than that. The 10hp you lose can be made up easily if you install an aftermarket Weber carburator. However, being in California it wont ever pass smog again. Not sure what standards your trike has to meet, so you maybe able to get around that. If it were me, i would preffer the EA81 over a EA82.

I talked to a co-worker of mine today, who was raised in Susanville and he sais its a 3.5hr drive from here. One way. Ive driven through it at night on my way to oregon once. Not much to see, but maybe its better in the day