TheSubaruJunkie

Cool. You have access to alot of good parts in your yards up there. The hardest thing to locate will be the gas tank. -Brian

Ive seen GLF-5's in the junkyard Rick -Brian

Yes, forgot the radiator cap test. Remove the cap, start the car, let the car warm up to operational temps. Pay attention to the fluid in the radiator. If little exhaust bubbles start to appear, you have a blown headgasket. If large bubbles appear, it maybe even worse... and if coolant goes gushing all over and spraying 3' above the radiator... you prolly have a bad head. -Brian

If you paid $700 to have a mechanic check it out, then he better have told you what was wrong. There's no mistaking a blown head gasket, expecially not with a blown turbo. If you run a compression test on the motor, you will know wether or not you have a bad head gasket. Your motor should have Gen3 heads on it, so the gaskets will go before the heads. Unless you severly overheated the motor... then the heads will warp and crack and you'd be screwed. There's no mistaking a cracked head, if the car is running alright right now, i wouldnt worry about heads. What color is the smoke you see? Do you have a boost gauge hooked up, and is that a blow off valve you installed or a bypass valve? -Brian

Zap, that OBS looks very sharp with those rims. Definatly cant wait to see it in person. -Brian

I shoulda checked with discount tire... i got mine from Tire Rack. Paid $340 for the set of 4, and $60 for shipping... i assume another $40 for mount and ballance. Althought, my rig is lifted so I dunno how well they'll work on stock subes. -Brian

Maybe... i come from Elvas ave to madison... i usually take fair oaks all the way down, turn at the split and continue on Fair Oaks until i get to San Juan. Then I take san juan to madison, then madison home. If you do see me, honk. I know what a suby horn sounds like, i'll keep an eye out for ya. -Brian

Yeah dude, driving home from work. -Brian

Loaner?? When you return the car make sure you say something like "Man, you guys really need to detail that thing... it smells like somebody spilled lasagna or something in there!" If you play it off right, maybe you'll get a discount -Brian

#5 has my vote -Brian

What is FOD? Tosh... use alittle man to get that bolt loose. -Brian

I hear its a direct bolt in and plug-n-play... *cough*Search*cough* -Brian

I'd like to see this. Even 2WD EA71 trannies were 5spd. -Brian

If the car died because of it, then its probably not a good sign at all. When my RX died on the side of the road, this is what i found when i lifted the hood: Of course, my case is alittle more severe than yours. I drove the car with a bad turbo seal until the crank ran dry, then kept driving until the crank bearing went... then the rod went... through my block. I would say fill the motor with oil (make sure it needs it 1st, so you dont over fill) and see if the car runs. Do you remember what color the smoke was that you saw?? Blue, White or Black? -Brian

News to me... ive NEVER Seen a 2WD 4spd. All EA81s 2WD are 5spd or Autos. -Brian

Yup... thats a classic sign that the disty is on its way south. -Brian

Can i get some people from California to post. Please, dont reply unless you are going to be a part of the Californian Caravan. -Brian

Please, lets just see how many we're gonna have 1st. If no one wants to caravan, i'll just leave Tuesday and take my time... camp and enjoy the sights along the way. -Brian

Yeah i hate how the speakers blast into the door seat, really makes for some crappy tunes. Im thinking of building boxes to mount in the headliner... i have some 4x6 Pioneers I wanna put in the hatch. -Brian

Oldest trick in the book. Its the only way I lock my cylinders Spray some PB Blaster on that bolt... then tap it with a hammer. Vibration and PB Blaster can go a LONG way. Usually all you need is a breaker bar. -Brian

Yeah i was shocked to see my loops still in place. I got this cargo cover from the junkyard a while ago... got it for a board member but USPS didnt like how i had it wrapped, so i couldnt ship it. Been holding onto it this whole time, and now that i got the hatch im glad i have it. Doesnt match, but no worries. Im thinking of getting some mounts for pipe to use as the hinge on the back... you know, the u mounts with tabs on them, not sure of the technical term. Im sure you can find something... maybe an eyelet from the hardware store, find one that is threaded and just bolt it in place. Something like this: But a much smaller scale. -Brian

Here you go mick: Loop on the hatch: String Connected to Loop: String connected to cover: You can see in the 2nd image there are 2 hooks. If i connect it to the other hook, it will open the cargo cover even more when the hatch is open. Hope this helps, let me know if you need anything else. -Brian

Talking about hatchbacks Mick? What do you need a pic of? Your hatch should have 2 small loops in the plastic that you hook the cargo cover to. My cargo cover has 2 hooks on each line, seems like with one setup you open just half the cargo cover and with another setup the entire cargo cover lifts when the hatch is open. The clips near the seat that hold the cover and act as a hinge are broken on my hatch, so im gonna have to find another way to secure it before i can permanently use it. I can run and get some pix for yah. -Brian

Okay, lets try this again. This time... ONLY POST if you plan on attending the show and would like to join our caravan. I will be leaving from Sacramento, and a couple others will be comming from Reno Nevada. Not sure what route we'll take, or what time or day we'll leave. Most of that depends on who all is attending. Please reply and let us know if you would like to join the caravan, once we know who is going we can worry about a schedule and route. Thanks, -Brian

They make wheel spacers. Check into them, could be an answer to your problem. -Brian