lmdew

You'll need to know what year it is. Most of the repair manuals have the wiring as well. You want the Vanagon section, as they have to strip down to the basic wiring as well. Search there as well.

Not Starting and not turning over are two different things. If you can hear the click of the Start, then as noted above and the engine does not turn over, then the starter contacts are most likely worn and need to be replace. If it is turning over but not starting, it could be fuel related. You should leave the throttle closed, unless the engine flooded somehow. Instead of hitting the shifter, try neutral. It may be that the second attempt sends enough voltage to the starter. Clean the battery terminals and grounds as well.

Yes, it does align the crank shaft gear and pulley. Soak the gear to shaft with PB blaster or the like. Rust can jam them up pretty good. After a good soak, you can try two straight slot screw drivers one on each side of the back flange. Note, that the Oil pump is behind the pulley, so don't go crazy. If it does not move, the next step is the tap the front gear holes and use a puller. You said the key was damaged, have you removed as much damaged as possilbe on the key with a file? If you need a new gear and or pulley let me know I have some spares.

Have you tighten the mount bolts. The front and back are rubber mounted, but the center of the mount is a steel bushing which get pinched between the engine and body mount points.

Auto, Good idea putting in the fuse. No torque bind that I can feel, but it worth checking. Thanks

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P1507 Idle Control System Malfunction Speedos on these cars are know for failure. Remove the dash, remove the 4 screws holding the speedo in and clean them one at a time and reinstall. The screws are the electrical connection between the board and the speedo. Recheck all of the plugs and hoses for the 1507. You might also want to clean the IAC.

Make sure you check the trans fluid level, color and smell. If the Trans torque conveter locking up to early could be causing your drag on the engine. It's a long shot, but a possibility.

The Drivers side outter CV joint was bad, boot torn, I replaced the axle 2X (used one's I'd re booted). Still sounds like the outter CV Joint is bad. In tight turns it clicks, but only when in drive or Rev. If I put it into neutral as I coast in the tight turn the clicking goes away. I have to get back under to do some more inspection, but I just thought I'd ask and see whatelse could cause this.

If you leave it in park or neutral does it do the same thing? If you drive in Rev does it die as well? I'm thinking it may be a trans issue.

You can try cleaning the IAC as well. Seafoam works well

I have about 6 or so Cranck Shaft pulleys and I think I have a good key as well. $40 shipped Priority mail. Lmdew@hotmail.com

If the price is right. It's very hard to get a good compression test unless the engine is running. It should be up to temp, full charged battery, all plugs removed, throttle wide open and then each cyc checked. It's good that they are all the same, if the plugs look good and the coolant overflow does not show signs of HG failure, I'd have no problem with 170. If you are not at sea level that will make a difference as well. 6200' in Colorado Springs, CO 170 is good

My bet is the cam timing is off a tooth or two! I've had this happen to me, took me forever to troubleshoot it. When I put the timing back where it need to be (and replace the tensioner) its been fine for months.

Could be the temp sensor. Cleaning the IAC is always a good idea. If it has not had normal maintenance (plugs wires air cleaner) do those as well. If it's a sensor cam or crank it should be setting a code and the CEL would be on.

Try shooting a little Starting fluid or gas into the intake. If it starts, it's a fuel problem. Heat to get the moisture out of the gas. Warm Garage overnight would be another good way to check things out.

Front is rotating further than the rear, 10 revs on the front produce about 9 & 13/16 revs on the back. Front 4.11 Rear 3.9 Time for a 4.11 rear. I guess the dealer was wrong.

Any good auto parts store will have a seal remover. I've found driving a small 1/8" screwdriver between the outter lip of the seal and the block will bend the seal out of shape and then you can pry it out with ease. I do this at the top. If your careful, no damage is done to the block and since you are not on the camshaft no damage to the sealing surface. Don't forget to pull the oil pump and locktite the backing plate screws and replace the o-ring.

NZ is way better than FL for a working holiday!

You need to get a 95 2.2 intake manifold with EGR. It will bolt right up to the 93 block and the harness on the 95 Intake will plug into your 97.

Say, if you provide the cold beer and a place to stay I could make it a working Holiday!

No, they are all single cams. I've done 8 or so of these swaps and they are easy. - Ensure the EGR Valve configuration matches your engine, if you have one, you need to have one on the 2.2 engine - If you have a dual port exhaust, but you get a single port exhaust engine, get the y-pipe - If you want the Power steering lines to bolt up factory stock, along the intake manifold, get the power steering lines as well Plug and play!

If you can do a leak down check that would confirm your thoughts and current tests.

You swapped in a 2.2 motor, complete with intake - is this correct? Mark the IAC position, loosen the 2 screws on the top and move it slightly. As long as you have marked it you can go back to the previous setting. Is this a used motor? Was it running OK in the previous car? All the hoses hooked up?

Just flushed a 93 Legacy, in the top and out the bottom. The hard line bolted along the frame rail that points straight up is the top hose-the feed line. The other is the return.