lmdew

Get a used lower mile 95 2.2 from a car with a auto trans, which will have the EGR valve. Do the Timing belt, cam and crank seals before you put it in and it will be good for another 100K. http://www.car-part.com http://www.junkyarddog.com are two good JY search engines.

It will need to be replace at some point. You could clean and put a little RTV on it if you need the car now and don't have a boot. You can just change the boot. I would not use the split boots.

Clear the code and see if it comes back. If it does, check or replace the front O2 sensor with a Subaru Part. Many times that will fix it. I take it you have done normal maintenance, NGK Plugs, Subaru Plug Wires.... Good Luck.

Year and make? I've never seen the under body supports pull away from the floor pan. Strange

Burp it. Get the front of the car as high as possible, squeeze the top radiator hose over and over until no bubbles come out at the radiator fill port. Start the car and do it all over again, until it's bubble free. Put the cap on and let it come up to temp. Shut off the engine and let it cool, the engine should draw coolant in from the overflow bottle.

I don't know that there is a cheap and good route. This is a bad area with at least 3 different body panels welded together. I've cut off some sections from cars I've sent to the crusher, how big of an area are you talking? Anyway you look at it, getting a body shop to do quality work will not be cheap.

It's a very fair price, buy it!

All the Alarms I've removed (I hate aftermarket stuff) put a relay in the main power wire going up to the ignition switch. Black with yellow stripe if my memory is good.

Is the idle RPM increasing when the AC kicks in? I suspect what is happening is that the idle is dropping and killing the engine. When the engine stops you get all the warning lights. The reason is does not do it in P or N is the transmission is not loading the engine as well. The RPM should increase each time the AC clutch engages.

Mine stays clean. If its working fine the seals of the cylinder have to be OK. Strange!

Go to any auto parts place, auto zone, checker... and they will read the codes for Free! Once you have the codes, look them up and or post them here. The codes are the Key! Lots of post here on using only Subaru or NGK wires and NGK plugs.

It's nice when they go well and you can't beat the price you paid for the engine. 1/2 price Wed?

You can do anything, the question is it worth the trouble. Most swaps here are going the other way, Auto to a Manual. You'd need at least the following Starter Transmission Flex Plate and bolts Trans Cross Member Trans Drive Shaft Rear Diff is the gear ratios are different Break Box Trans ECU Associated Wiring This is a large project, it would be best accomplished with a complete doner car to get all the parts

Replaced the small filter and checked the EGR at idle for opening and flow. It checked good and the code has not come back. The Crank Sensor was also flagged, the PO had the car checked several times and the Mechanics had said it need a crank sensor. When I pulled it out I found the 2 wires going to the sensor bare right at the back of the plug. I repaired the wiring and its good to go. Thanks for the assistance!

You should be able to pull one from the You pull and pay yards in SLC. The one out west have half off on Wed!

Are you doing the work yourself? If so, you know the car and its worth fixing it. Much less than new car payments. If you buy used, you don't know what you are getting.

If you are just taking voltage readings your meter can lie to you. To get a true reading you have to check the circuit loaded, or load the circuit when you test it. Here is the tool you need for your meter: http://www.brighterideas.com/ I attended Dan's Training course and it changed the way I look and test electrical problems! I had a 85 BMW 318i that had problems for years, RPM would flux at idle. No fix. My kid used it for several months and the car started killing at random times. New battery, New Grounds... It turned out to be a very corroded + lead of the alternator. I found the problem using the TESLite. 30 minutes later the problems was fixed. Check out some of the videos on his web site.

I have several if you need on, $10 shipped. Larry

Temp Sensor on the Water manifold under the Intake manifold. There is a Temperature Switch, small one with a blade connector and the Temperature Sensor, with the connector.

It could be many things at this mileage. I'd start with the simple things: Seafoam the IAC and intake track Ensure the Plugs and wires are in good condition Clean the MAF sensor Does it do it all the time? Hot or Cold? Other than the idle does it run fine? Is your gas mileage good?

95 auto for sure! You can use other 2.2 as long as you get the 95 manifold and EGR, but you might have to drill and tap the head for the pipe. Not an easy job. Try www.car-part.com or www.junkyarddog.com I just picked up a 95 2.2 with 80K on it for $300 + $200 to ship from FL to CO.

If you leave it in P or N when the engine is cold does it rev normally? Is your idle high when the engine is cold, approx 1500RPM?

You can pull the return line, the one with the rubber hose. Block the PS pump side and route the other side into a jug. Start the engine, the pump should be flowing fluid as the steering is turned back and forth. Don't run the pump dry!

Change the hoses! The engine pulls coolant back into the engine when it cools. You should be able to see this if you check the coolant level when hot and then recheck when its cold. You might also want to change the radiator cap.