lmdew

I think anything 96 and newer is an interference engine. I always put the old style tensioner on when I do belts and junk the new style.

I wait for the sale and get the NGK for $1.99. On another board here is what one fellow who has tried them in an Outback had to say: Every time I fill up I check the MPG and I am still only seeing the same averages I saw before putting the plugs in. I've had the car since 2003 and the best MPG I ever got BEFORE putting in the plugs was 27 MPG, so anything over that would make me happy. Overall I'm not even getting the estimated 23 MPG that Subaru claims I should have with combination local/highway driving. Only once, on a long trip that was all highway, where I was primarily going down from the mountains into the flatlands did I get 31MPG, but ANYONE would have done better on that leg of my trip. The rest of the trip my MPG was a disappointment even though it was ALL highway. As far as I'm concerned I wasted my money on these plugs.

Has anyone tried these Pulstar Plugs in a Subaru yet? $25 a plug but 30 day money back. If no one has tried them, I'll give them a try in my 98 OBS 2.2.

The hole in the trans housing is the perfect size for a helicoil. Just tap it for a helicoil and you can use a bolt for the bottom as well. I've done this a couple of times. You can do it with the engine and trans installed as you have good access from the bottom of the car. I used the same thread pattern as the engine/trans mount bolts.

If its a sedan I have the complete assembly for you. $35+ shipping. I'm in CO. Thought you were looking for the tail light which I have but looks like you might be needing the front fender marker.

1/4" Drive with a 6 point socket, slip a box end wrench over the ratchet handle for extra leverage. When all four bolts are out slide the TC back about a 1/4". Once the engine is out wire the TC back through the starter hole in the trans to keep it engaged. Reverse when you install.

Check the front differential for Gear Lube with the Dip Stick on the Passenger Side! If there is none, I'd stop and call the shop that did the work as they must have drained the gear lube. With the car up on jacks, you will not get a correct reading unles you level the car. The Snap ring should hold the stub shaft in, but I've seen them come out. I'd get a new snap ring from Subaru and then reinstall the shaft if the gear lube checks out OK.

Take the old belt and cut it. Wrap it around the cam & crank gears and have them overlap in the middle. Pull it tight and then clamp the belt together with a vise grips. You can rotate the cam gear backwards to the timing mark, no problem.

On the swaps I've done, I Bolt the canister up front as well and hook the vac lines up as they were on the 2.2 car. Battery and Alternator good? Hope you get it going!

As far as I know the 95 with automatic transmissions have the EGR. The 95 with the manual transmisson does not!

A little rust on the shaft/gear will lock it up tight. Start with letting it soak with PB Blaster. Yes, you do not want to pry on the teeth but you can get behind and gently pry it forward. If you get it to move even a little, that's enough to work it back and forth to let the PB Blaster break down the rust. I will slide off. Some of the gears had threaded holes so you could pull them off. Yes, change the o-ring and lock tight the oil pump cover screws.

Pull the side timing covers and check the cam gear marks, if they both do not line up the timing has jumped. It hard to see, but if you pull the cam sensor and look down the hole you can just see the mark on the crank gear if the timing is correct all three marks should be line up. My 98 OBS was running rough, finally threw a code for mis-fire on 1&3. I checked many things, but it was the timing that was the cause of the problem. Autozone or any auto parts place will read the codes for free. You can get code readers for $90 or less these days which is cheaper than the tow for some folks.

TC is not in the last 1/4". If it's all the way engaged, you should pull it forward about an1/8" or so when you install the bolts into the flex plate. Don't start it this way, it will trash the trans! Sorry, but as far a I know you have to drop it back out to fix this. You may be able to get it in the last notch by unbolting it and sliding it back to the end of the studs, that should give you enough room to work it in IF YOUR LUCKY

They are easy to change. If you can draw all of the fluid out of the tank it makes a cleaner job, otherwise use lots of rags. Pull the belt - you've done that Crack the front line bolt a little There are 3 12mm bolts you can get to through the holes in the pulley, remove them. Remove the bolt on the rear bracket if you have one Remove the bolt from the front line Remove the clamps from the rear hose and pull off the pump If you are getting a used pump: Replace the o-ring between the pump and the tank (access the bolts from the tank) Clean the tank while you have it off Install the pump in reverse order Fill to the correct level Run the car and turn the wheel stop to stop to bleed any air out.

Drop a used 2.2 from a 95 auto in there for < $500 and you'll save that much in gas! What's going to happen when the car dies and you have no transportation? Walking into a dealer in need is no way to get the best deal.

$40 shipped. I need to know if you have the round or square field plug.

I believe its a viscous coupling in the transmission. Strickly mechanical, it either works or it not. Nothing you can do but replace it if it fails.

Most of the lift comes from the 1 1/2 or so in height the bottom spring seat is raised. You could use the stock sedan springs with the outback struts.

If you want to try a used alt, I have several. $45 shipped.

Unplug the fuel pump under the seat, crank the car for 20 seconds or so to release some of the fuel pressure. You will need a 5/16" tee fitting, about 6" of fuel line. Go on the engine side of the fuel filter in the engine compartment and tee in the fuel pressure gauge. Hook up the fuel pump connector and crank the car over. You should see fuel pressure rise as the system pressurizes. I don't have the exact PSI but anything over 30 should be good.

All but the SVX and STI wheels will fit, as they are 5x100 mm. I have a radiator, I'm in CO. Larry

Any CEL or codes in the computer. It could be most anything. Check for Spark Check fuel pressure Can you hear the pump run, you don't drop the tank the pump is pulled from the top access cover, Under the back seat or in the trunk.

I've seen this before, I smooth them out as much as possible and put a light coat of grease on the shaft. Most of the rattle was most likely from the TOB and Fork not being held together with the spring pins.

Yep I replaced both of them. Thanks Larry

I've done a few Timing belts and I've started making it part of the process to pull the oil pump and lock tight the screws, change the crank seal and Oil pump o-ring. The last 2 I've done 3 of the screws were backed out over a 1/8". I think once the threads have been cleaned and the screws put in with lock tight it should be a finial fix. Has anyone seen the problem repeat?