lmdew

Sorry to say, I just purchased a 12 pack of stock Blue filters. So it goes

Thanks, might give it a try. The OBS has 220k on it and the PO had the new clutch go out. NAPA replace the clutch for them and I asked about the shaft free play. They said they checked it. But then when I was driving it, I had a hard time getting into 4th. Not all the time but sometimes. The trans on a Forester that had the center of the clutch go out felt the same. So better to put a new trans in it now.

I picked up a 98 Impreza OBS that needs a new Trans. The search of the local yards turned up several newer trans with the hyd release. I've converted cable to hyd clutch release before, but I don't want to go to that expense again. Is it possible to change the clutch fork and remove the cable bracket from the old trans and bolt it up to the newer trans? Thanks

Usually a bad sensor or stuff on the sensor. The front sensors are behind the disk. Clean the sensors and or read the codes to see the ABS faults.

How many miles on the engine? How long did you drive it where the Temp gauge was higher than normal? If you can find a good used 2.2 at a self serve yard, I find it is usually less than doing the HG and much quicker. Good Luck.

NGK or Subaru Wires. NGK Plugs, Copper Core Subaru Coil if you need one. I have a bunch of Subaru Coils if you end up needing one. What year and what engine? Unlikely that they all failed at once, but start with a good visual inspection of the wires and go from there.

I often use a hotesy and clean the with hot water and simple green. Make sure you let them dry fully.

Fixed it on my Daughters 99 Impreza OBS. the short extension on the read O2 Sensor did the trick.

I'd at least open up the timing and get a good visual. What year is it? 96 and later are interference engines and if it goes you will likely bend valves.

Would be nice if http://overdraftautolife.com/2013/08/21/do-it-yourself/ has some interior pics. May be a bit short for someone over 6' tall. Also no kitchen hatch.

http://vintageoverland.com/ I read the article in Popular Mechanics and then went to the website. Thought some of you may enjoy the info.

Check the ground connections. I had one fellow here in town that had installed 4 different used Alt that I had for him. He finally brought the car over for me to look at. As I check the grounds, the main battery ground lead that bolts to the engine block bracket at the starter mount bolt was loose. When I pulled it off the bracket and terminal on the ground wire was all pitted. I changed the battery leads and bracket the problem was fixed. Larry

Looks good to me. It's been a few years since I've had one off, but I think you are good.

Yep, do the T-Belt, Cam and Crank Seals and the Oil pump screws on the back and the oring seal. I use Gray RTV to seal the pump to the block. Light coat, and I like to let it set for 24 hours before I start the engine.

If you have any other work that needs too be done on the engine, pull the engine. Other's notes above apply. I've done it both ways and like pulling the engine better.

Gray RTV, just a very thin coat. I always let mine cure for 24 hours after the install.

Subaru or NGK wires, but I'm sure you know that.

GD, I need to stop at your shop and say Hi, the next time I'm in PDX. Larry

Drained the oil, yep I could feel chunks inside the pan. I pulled the engine yesterday. Anyone need parts. The yard core charge is $50 so anything over that is fine by me.

www.car-part.com

Take it out to Shawn at RetroRoo http://retroroo.com/

I've used them and was happy.

Should have just emailed me for a nice rust free knuckle.

Totally different shop in a new location. I use to take used 2.5 DOHC cores up the Rick and Emily at the old CCR. I always enjoyed doing business with them over the years. Great source of engines and information. The new owner seems good, it's just not the same CCR. I assume they are good, time will tell.

www.car-part.com is good as well.