lmdew

www.car-part.com check for a yard engine. Your son will still learn a bunch from the engine replacement. There are a bunch of USMB members that rebuild engines full time. I work on older stuff 96-99 Outbacks were I can find a good used 2.2 for $300 and drop it in with new seals, timing belt... for under $500.

You'll need the ERG or it will throw codes, if you other car had an EGR. Best bet on the wiring would be to go to the yard and pull off a good intake and take a look at the wires. Basically down the middle of the intake tied to the fuel tubes but it's very tight under there.

Most likely. You can check and clean the sensor. Sometimes they are full of crud. Wire brush or sotchbrite the sensor and see if it changes.

Wasn't trying to be rude. But traveling through IL often for work I just don't get the thought process of a lot of IL drivers.

Or even an easier idea, watch for a good set of KYB Struts in a self server yard and pull the complete strut. $20 each is what I pay for them. Bolt them right in.

Don't drive 85 in a 55 MPH speed limit like all the other IL folks. Forester's are not as fuel efficient as other models due the the higher frontal area.

Nope, if you don't want it snip the belt. It's AC only. It is recommended to run the AC every month or so to keep the o-rings lubricated and system working. If you have not done that for years, it won't make any difference now. Not much of any MPG change as it's just rotating a belt when the AC is off. No load on the engine.

This is what I did. Ran fine, no codes. I would 'think' you could put a hole in the intake - after the air filter - put in one of those plastic hose barbs w/a rubber grommet sized to fit the hole, and run a line to the EGR hard line that normally goes to the head

The alignment pins are often corroded into the trans. I will require you to pry the engine and trans apart. Go easy, start with a thing screwdriver driven between the engine and trans. Work up to a pry bar. Some folks like to drive the pins forward, the passenger side will come out the drivers side will hit the engine block but you can move it half way out of the trans.

No the original one will work fine.

Yes, replace the radiator is the best option. You could take it to a radiator shop, they may be able to stop the leak by crimping the metal clamp a little more and pressure testing it. There is a rubber gasket between the plastic tank and the core. I would think you could order a radiator online.

I've pulled 20+ engines from the you pull yards. Look for: - Car hit hard, you know it was going down the road - Car is in other wise good shape, you know the owner took care of it - Oil, pull the pan plug, the cleaner the oil the better. Put you finger in the drain hole and check the bottom of the pan for metal inside - Engine turns over by hand and compression feels good on all cylinders - Pull a plug or two, good clean burning - Coolant looks good If it passes all those checks pull it. Before you install it: - Reseal the rear breather plate - New Plugs (NGK) and valve cover gaskets - Reseal the Oil Pump and locktite on the rear cover screws - New Subaru Cam and Crank Seals - New Timing belt kit - Make sure the thermostat is a Subaru one and the gasket is good

Head to the yard and clip a good connector and then splice it in. Easy.

I just tossed several rust free Colorado Springs. I have more $5 + shipping. Larry

Subaru are like lego's. Lot's of parts will bolt right on other Subaru's: Brakes Struts Seats A good used 96-99 Outback with the DOHC engine that the Head Gaskets have went out is a great platform and will last a long time.

Drop in a good used 2.2, better and cheaper long lasting option.

Drop a used 2.2 into this one and for less than $2000 you can have a great car that will last for years. http://rockies.craigslist.org/cto/5828064499.html

Let me know what you're looking for. I fix Subaru's for fun. 96-99 DOHC engines have Head Gasket issues. When I find one with a bad engine, I drop a 96-98 2.2 engine in it. Much better engine and only a small loss in power. Larry

It's easy to cross thread the hood bolts if the hinge is not lined up. Leave all the bolts lose and start them by hand. I'd pull the hood off and try the standard tap first. There is not much depth in there so take it easy.

How worn were your old shoes? I have had new shoes that were two thick. Is the adjuster screwed all the way in? If your old shoes have over a 1/8" pad on them, I'd use them. Remember it's only a parking Brake.

Intake Air Temp sensor is right on the front face of the intake air box to the passenger side of the throttle body. Rock Auto.com Amazon.com www.heubergermotors.com/parts/index.htm 25% off if you order online. I use them cause they are close to me but they do ship.

I've towed lots on the dolly. Drop the 4 driveshaft bolts at the rear diff and head down the road. Larry

Yep, works great. I've used a spare Brake vacuum line, just make sure the check valve allows the EGR to pull air. Ace Hardware, Plastic hose barb Tee with a brass hose barb reducer screwed into it. Works Great

Yep, I did the same thing years ago. I love the ability to quickly bleed and flush the brake system. I use Quick disconnect air fittings on my. They seal fluid as well. Nice Post.

I've pulled them together, its a pain. Auto's are really bad.