lmdew

No notches on the one I have for you, Larry

It would not hurt. The factory sealant holds the pan on very well. If you put them back in, clean the pan and area well and then see where the leak is coming from. Trans coolant lines?

Did you surface the flywheel? New pressure plate and through out bearing? Exedy clutches have been good to me over the years.

Sounds like you have a large fuel leak. Was the injector hard to push in? The o-rings make them a very firm seat. Find out where all the extra fuel is coming from and correct that first. You might also want to change the oil and filter is the oil has fuel in it.

Works great. If there was the demand, I' could make up a bunch of steel straps with a hole on one end and a bolt welded in the other end. Larry

Take a double end box wrench, put one end over the rear block stud and the other end to a bolt through the flex plate outer hole. Easy

i have one $30 shipped.

That part bolts onto the engine. Get a used one from the yard. Easy. Larry

Push the handle in and then unlock it.

Both style tools under $25. https://www.amazon.com/Qbace-Joint-Clamps-Pliers-Banding/dp/B015IH45ZK/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467111923&sr=1-3&keywords=cv+joint+clamp

For the bands with the little tooth hooks a tile nipper works OK For the bands that slip under the ring a vise grips and screwdriver used a a pry bar against the vise grips and ring works OK The correct tools are best. Sometimes I end up using aviation safety wire and just putting several wraps around. this works well also.

Always the best option IMHO as you can see and do it right the first time.

Search the form for the special process to get the codes. I just used it on a friends car.

Are you talking about the mechanical drive for the Speedo cable? The speedometer is working fine. That's why I was thinking the sensors on the tail shaft. Thanks, Larry

The IAC are a little different, but an easy swap. Make sure the torque converter stays back and fully seated in the trans. Different Starter Reseal the rear breather plate while you have the trans off. Leave the remain alone, they mostly never leak unless someone changes one. No fluids when you pull the trans from the engine.

Auto or Manual? Your hill holder may the problem if you have a manual trans.

A new key and 140 ftlbs of torque on the bolt and you should be fine. I have had a good welder weld the key in with the crank in. Still working fine years later. It was on a 95 2.2. There is also a repair that uses roll pins to pin the damper to the crank gear. Good luck. Larry

No, they leak but, don't fail often. Do you have an Automatic? Is your AT TEMP light flashing 16 times after you start the car? Search Torque Bind.

A friends 93 Legacy Auto with 220K on it started having the Blinking Power light, but not all the time. I pulled the codes for him and it showed 32 & 33 the speed sensor. This is not constant, a few miles later, the Power light was off and it was shifting as normal. Thoughts? Thanks, Larry

Standard trans fluid hoses. NAPA should have it in stock. Front seal leaks usually come out the front of the transmission at the engine to block split line.

The orings on the compressor and condenser are often the source of the leak. Subaru parts.

Not adjustable. You can bleed the clutch change the fluid. I've been happy with the Grip force clutch kits off ebay.

Yes, you may have to change the top hats of the rear struts but they will bolt up. Why would you do this? Each to his own. Have fun, that's the important part.

You have to drop the headliner, which means all the trim has to come out. Lot's of work, there are small metal slides that allow the shade to slide. In warm weather the trim should be OK. Practice on the wreck car first.

As long as the front and rear diff are the same ratios you are OK. Swap them is the less expensive route. www.car-part.com will give you a good idea of the costs.