lmdew

Depends on condition and maintenance its had. HG usually are external oil or coolant leaks. pretty easy to see. If its in good shape, its a good price.

Do you have the Security System installed? It ties into the marker lights as if the battery is disconnected, when it's hooked back up they will flash until you reset the security system. The black box is usually under the drivers side dash panel.

The speed sensor is part of the dash on your car. It's just a cable from the trans to the speedo.

Search this form for frankenmotor, lots of info out there already. Might also do a google for frankenmotor Subaru as there are many other forms that will have additional info as well.

Yes, I've used many of them, great quality for all the components in the kit. Don't forget the Subaru Cam and crank seals.

yes, you will need to modify the stock HG a little or buy the custom HG to have all the coolant passages line up.

Most likely the cable that goes to the temp door is no longer hooked to the flapper door or the dial on the panel The tab that connects the dial to the push pull cable breaks pretty easy.

sounds like one engine had the evap up in the engine compartment and the other had it in the rear of the car. you can either swap intakes or simply loop the evap lines at the front of the engine. There should not be any extra fuel lines. There are just three of them.

1/2 metal rod moving the trans input shaft in and out. It goes in and out.

Sounds to me that your shift linkage has become disconnected from the trans. - Put the car on ramps or jack stands - get under the car and you will see the shift linkage going into the transmission on the drivers side rear of the transmission (right up above the rear trans cross member) - Have someone shift the transmission into all 6 positions - Did the trans input shaft move with each shift? If not you have found your problem - fix the linkage.

Get the codes. Even if the CEL is not on the codes will be stored. Most Auto parts will read them for Free!

A little more work is worth it. As far as finding a 2.2, local yards are best as you don't have to pay shipping. To get an idea of what's out there, use www.car-part.com and search for a 95 Legacy, the auto trans cars came with the EGR.

I'd be willing to bet it's the breather plate that is causing the oil leak you are seeing and not the pan itself. RTV only on the pan. There is a breather seal at the right rear corner of the oil pan as well. I'd clean it up real well and watch it. If you are going to do the clutch and breather anyway, just wait until then to do the pan. Change out the PCV with a Subaru one. They clog up sometimes and cause high oil consumption.

I'd try a stub shaft and used Subaru axle first. You could drain and check the front diff oil for metal.

C-Duty in the tail shaft. Search Torque bind, there are lots of good pictures and threads on changing it.

Did the Forester CC work before all of this swap over? I'd check the clutch and brake switches to make sure they are being activated correctly.

Yep, they will work.

Do you hear the fuel pump run when you first turn on the Key? Have you tried putting a little gas in the intake. If it runs then, it's a fuel issue. Are you sure you have the correct timming? Good Luck

First, change the PCV with a Subaru part and make sure the hoses going to it are not blocked. Search this form for oil consumption and you will find several threads. Second, a 95 with EGR valve that you have on your 99 is a plug and play option. I've done many of these swaps and love them.

There is a resistor pack in the Heater Duct to the left of the fan behind the glove box. It goes bad sometimes and you will loose a fan speed or two. It's easy to change. Plug and two screws. If you jump the plug the fan will be on high speed. Take a close look at the fuse box and under dash wiring. Sounds like the PO may have tapped into the wiring. Put it back to stock if you can. If it's got an aftermarket security system get rid of it.

I've used the Grip Force Clutch kits and have been happy with them. 4 years is not that long on a clutch, is it slipping? if not, let it go. If you do go in to do the clutch make sure you reseal the rear breather plate under the flywheel. Do NOT change the rear main seal. The tail lights, make sure you got all of the nuts, there is one or two on the outside edge, as well as the ones on the back. Even with all of the nuts removed the sticky stuff they use to seal it to the body will hold it. Light pressure with a flat bar between the body and light will start it moving. Doing this on a hot day is better than a cold winter day. Apply some heat to the body inside if you can, heat gun. Take it very easy with the pressure, the plastic of the light will crack first, if you're to aggressive. You could practice on another Subaru in the yard first.

Well the good thing is these are inside the car, either under the rear seat or just behind it in the cargo area. Pretty easy to pull. www.car-part.com would be another option for a good used one.

What year and what engine? Pretty basic, lots of good info here if you search timing belt and on you tube. Pull the timing covers: Crank gear has a tick mark in the back timing tooth that gets lined up with the tick mark on the engine block. The Cam Gear marks will be lined up with the tic marks in the plastic back cover of the timing belt cover and the head split line. How many miles are on the T-Belt? Most of the time you can still see the original marks on the belt and can use those when you put it back on. If it's been over 80K, I'd replace the belt along with the seals, Oil pump rear cover screw and o-ring, and all of the idler pulleys.

I believe these are pre greased and come sealed. Never need to repack. If the new bearings failed the hub is most likely damaged and out of round. Get a new hub.

Did they use a Subaru Pump? Try putting a little gas in the intake, it should start and run for a bit. If so yes you have a fuel problem, if not keep on looking. Aftermarket pumps are junk, I'd go to the yard and pull a used Subaru Pump first. Just cause there is 12 volts at the pump plug, does not mean you have good voltage under load. wwww.brighterideas.com Pack probe the connector, put a couple of small wires into the connector and hook it back up, Then read voltage when you turn on the key. Still have 12 volts but the pump is not running, bad pump.