FerGloyale

it's a DL! no trim panels on pillars, rubber glass seal rather than glued in. A better match for a Loyale actually than the GL or GL-10 wagon hatch. It may be nessecary to swap the wiring loom over from teh GL to retain power locks. But the wire may be in the loom already and just need the actual solenoid swapped in and plugged in.

There is no way to do a complete EJ swap for $319. I'd say go for that Weber in the link if i were the OP. That's a good price for all the adapters and the filter housing.

well, then you want a 96-98 Outback trans and TCU. That will be 4.44 Also a 98 Forrester auto trans/tcu would work.......but not 99+ for either. I think that TCU will still plug in and talk to the 92's ECU......might throw a TPS code though......only difference I can think of. But again, that's on an already Automatic car. You're in for ALOT of wiring to make the Auto work in a MT car. Heck I'd do a full Engine and Trans harness swap and run all matching year managment if I had to do it. On the cheap, you already got the 4.44 MT and a MT car, run that and enjoy it. Unless you're fitting 30's on it you'll have plenty of gear.

Need some oval hole rally wheels. Or maybe some "H" spoke GL-10 alloys. Or even the "cross" pattern alloys from EA81 GL turbos and GL-10 Just whatever you do, don't paint em black. I hate black Rims. Just looks like garbage. my $.02

the 4.44 MT will do fine for most anything you'll find on a Gambler. It's a nice trans to score. Use it. It''s more about taking the abuse for the long haul than maximum Offroad Capabilities.

I installed one in an 07. Pretty easy. Everything just plugs in no wire splicing. But you will need to go tot he dealer to have the SSM programmed to match the RF id emitter that goes around the IG cylinder. Without that, the car will not start. IDK how an aftermarket system would even get around that. If the RF ID from the key, or the emitter are not detected, the car won't start. No matter what you do with the IG cylinder or wires you splice. It makes the car "hotwire" proof. I would ONLY install the OEM system.

my point was that DL versions of XTs over here got no back seat. Only GL/GL-10s

There are canopy tops available for Bajas also. I'd rather daily drive my XT than a Brat. At least it's a GL model so I got rear seats.

Your engine has AVLS. Active Valve Lift System. Only affects one of the 2 intake valves on each cyl. Keeps the one valve lift low at low throttle, opens it full lift during heavy throttle. (AVCS is on DOHC turbo motors and controls valve timing, not lift amounts.) At any rate. Do not mess with the AVLS components. For reassembly, simply flip the spring to it's "unloaded" state. After bolting in the rocker arms, a flathead screwdriver can be used to flip the spring end back under the little post that holds it. Be carefull to not lose the small cylindrical interlocks and the spring under them.

there is no 13.5, and Subaru doesn't use US standard stuff. So, it will be a 14mm. Get a good six point box end or socket. Do not try with an open end or a 12 point.

it will be either a 14mm or a 17mm Those are the only sizes Subaru has ever used. It may have been messed up a bit by someone using a 9/16 or something and rounding an edge, making the 14mm seem big. But that's what it will be. Try getting a new, 6-point box end wrench or socket and try that.

the upper panel unscrews from the rest of the panel. It is easy to wrap the upper panel in new vinyl. Seen it done many times. choose yer color and go for it.

you've got a vac leak somewhere Sure the EGR plate is sealed? Intake manifold to heads? TB to the intake?

No need to drop the tank and clean. In CA, you won't have any gunk in that tank. The problem will likely be the metal cap on the "surge" canister built into the fuel pump pickup assembly. It's a known issue for these cars. The ear on the cap will have a split, and will no longer lock onto the plastic tabs. You;ll see when you get at the pump. BTW, the pump is accessed from under the rear seat. panel in the floor come out, then the fuel pickup is pulled out from the top of the tank. Unfortunately that cap is not available to buy separately that I've found. I very carefully, after cleaning and away from the tank, put a few tack welds over the cracked part of the cap, and installed it back ont eh unit with a new O-ring (use sili-glyde silicon lube on O-ring)

It might work, but it's torture for the rear transfer plates. Might wear them substantially. or might destroy them and leave you unable to drive. Problem is the TCU tries to disengage the rear more and more the faster you go, so it will be slipping like crazy any speed above 20 mph or so. I suppose you could cut the wire to the transfer solenoid to go "full lock" mod and splice it back in or install a switch later. I''d just take an axle, a breaker bar, and a 19mm socket, a 32mm socket and a roll pin punch and change it out before driving. Only take 30 mins or less to change.

you need to get code read with a OBD II scanner. Code 22 for older OBD cars may not be the same as your OBD II car. You need the POxxxx # from an obd II reader. go to an autozone they will scan it or buy a cheapo $35-$50 simple OBD II scanner. And clear the code with a Scanner as well. Some codes will stay stored as pending even after battery disconnect. Poor response under load can often be bad spark plugs in this engine. Change them with NGK or Denso plugs only. $3.99 Iridium is fine. no need for platinum.

does the car have remote start or an aftermarket alarm?

Though I think some Brats are still holding and gaining value,I gotta agree here. A good running Weber is a better bet than the Carter single barrel any day. It's a nice Brat but not a candidate for an "all Original", "concours" restoration

If that is true, well then you need not worry. The girls will stay far away from you. jk

yeah, but it's really better to just drop the enitire thing. The risk of folding or qworse ripping it is too great with it hanging off of the middle rail between the glass panels. As you mentioned you need to remove the handles, the dome light, map light, seat belt mounts, and the a, b and c pillar upper plastic. Also, there are some large flat clips that pop out int eh middle of the roof, and 4 rectangular plastic clips that hang the center portion. To get to them you must open the sliding roof, and they are visible from above looking down at the rail between the 2 glass panels. Pull up on the center section of the clip, and then remove the entire thing. The benefit here is it allows you to access all *8* connections of the tubing to the drains. And it give you a chance to blow compressed air directly through the drain tubes with a positive seal for maximum pressure. At the rear there are just 2. In front, there are 2 connections of the rear roof rails to the drain tubes. Additionally, there are 2 more drain holes and tubes from the front roof tray. Those connect into a "T" and then there is a final connection of the drain hose in the a-pillar to those "T's" All of them can leak, I put clamps on all of them.

duh. I should have read better. I swear I'm losing my ability to read and process information.

I think what he's dealing with is a stuck stub in the diff. Here's what needs to happen. First, unboot the inner CV joint. Remove the inner lip circlip. Remove the shaft and inner race/cage. Now, clean grease out of the bottom of the cup. You wil be able to see the pressed in "plug" at the bottom. Drill a hole through it, sheet metal screw it and pull with puller. Or whatever else caveman you can do but get that plug outta there. Now you need an E10 "reverse" torx socket. 1/4 drive deep well is best. Use it to remove the bolt in the center of the diff stub that holds it into the diff. Now the cup and stub can be taken to a press and pressed apart. sometime requires heating the cup around the stub, but if so you won't want to reuse that cup.

2004 trans will have external trans stubs IIRC

Congratulations! You've now made your cylinder temps higher, your oil more acidic, and your exhaust dirtier! Oh and yer intake air will now have lots more grit in it and be more likely to suck in water! So Much Winning!

I think banjo screws into that fitting.