FerGloyale

Do you know for sure what year and model your harness and intake are from? The reason I ask is that there are actually 2 different IAC (Idle air control) valves used in the first gen legacies. 90,91 Manual trans models used a 2 pin type (no center pin in the 3 pin connector) That can only actively open the valve All AT models and all 92-94 (and 95-98 2.2+2.5) use the 3 pin type that can actively open and close the valve. You mentioned having replaced the IAC, are you sure you got the correct one? And did you get it well sealed to the intake when you did?

You're going to need wheel spacers if you do that route. The tire/rim will hit that strut if you don't space it down. Talk to Anderson design lifts......his rears are like that. Most people use strut top lifts.

2008 will have the FWD fuse holder. Inside the under hood fuse box. Labeled FWD in the diagram. Install a fuse (or jumper wire) in that holder and the trans will be in FWD. If vibration continues it's not the trans. FWD function is for when spare tire "donut" is used. Donut is only for use on rear. If flat tire is on front move good rear tire to front and put spare on back with FWD fuse(or jumper, not needed to be fused) installed.

CEL wire can be found at largest of the 4 ECU connectors. Pin 19, which is 1 off of center on the bottom row. Red w/Yellow stripe wire. It is the ground for the lamp, so lamp must have 12+ with key on and ECU grounds to turn it on. Test mode does lock in some parameters so cancels the closed loop normal operation. Seems you should put the ECU into AT mode if it isn't. IIRC this means grounding pin 20 of the second largest connector (3 in from end of bottom row). Sorry can't find the color.

Yeah.....likely. That's why I suggesting putting a test gauge on the pump to see if the readings are accurate, or if it's a faulty sender.

I think you've got a cyclops grill from a later single rectangle fixture headlight setup. Narrow and more "square" outer corner lights and no big chrome bezel around the H. lamps. If you look, it's not the same as the one in the pics of the 2 rectangle setup. That setup has curved edges to fit the big chrome bezel. There is a version for the 2 round lamps that has an even bigger curve and is wider still. I've got a cyclops grill and bezel set here that may be the right one for ya...I'll look. Or you could modify the existing grill on yer 83. Probably look better than cutting the outer ends off the one you bought.

Yeah, you guys are the exception to the rule in that I genuinely know you aren't dumb asses blinding people purposefully or not. You are aware drivers. A rare breed. I just don't have faith in the other millions of checked out drivers out there.

test with proper mechanical gauge to confirm. If that is the case, you have very worn clearances in the mains r some other major oil system problem (oil pump relief?) Hopefully it's a electrical malfunction with the sender or dash gauge. wouldn't be surprising.

Yes I know it's a Swapped harness. And that can be part of the Nuetral switch issue. Assuming you've still got the VW trans, what was done to connect it to a nuetral switch signal to tell the ECU wether it needs to keep the engine idleing? It needs to see a signal to allow fuel cut when in gear, but still rolling at zero throttle (for engine braking) TPS, VSS + Neutral switch position are what let the ECU wether to fuel cut for engine braking, or keep engine idling because you are about to be at a stop in neutral. You can use the AT/MT discriminator wire at the ECU to tell the ECU to be for "AT" where it will not be as sensitive about keeping idle. Engine braking may suffer slightly though.

LED light bars ARE NEVER legal on a public road. Whether you turn them off like high beams or not. They are for side x sides that only ever see trails. 20 years ago I remember people getting pulled over all the time just for not having their KC lights covered. It baffles me why now the police don't seem to care about these TOTALLY NOT DOT approved light bars that run the entire width of the damn trucks roofline. They are a major hazard. Hate them. Hate LED headlights too. Blinds the oncomong traffic, and doesn't project "deep" into the night very well. Sure things up close are brighter, but your far depth vision actually suffers for this. Now LED interior lights,....they are great......never have to come out to a dead battery just cause the trunk didn't get closed all the way!

Plates mounted to the body via old modified lift blocks IMG_3520 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the other side, with the trailing bracket mounted. This allows positioning of the bracket before welding to the plate above. IMG_3522 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here' what I had to do to pull the brackets into place. Now that I know that I was using a bad number to measure from (4+ inches too narrow) I know why it was so hard to get them pulled in! lol Also, in this shot you can see the crossbar of my built subframe. With the diff now pushed about 4 inches further up into the body, that tube interferes with the driveline. Had to change that, pics in the next shot. IMG_3525 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the subframe tube with a new cutout and bracing IMG_3539 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here's the sliders connecting the subframe with the Trailing brackets. Too bad these are gonna have to change again when I reposition the brackets 2" further out on each side. IMG_3544 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3543 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here's some pics of the finished crossbracing for the main subframe. The added braces are kinda hard to see in the dark photos. IMG_3541 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3542 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the final height it will sit at viewed from underneath in the pit. IMG_3536 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's a shot of what the trailing brackets look like from the side of the rig. These will need to change a bit, but basically haow it will be. Gotta move these brackets outward about 2 inches each. IMG_3546 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

TR? Impreza TS maybe?

Nuetral switch signal? Often causes idling issues when rolling to a stop. Also check air intake boot and all PCV hoses for any metered air leaks.

Yeah if the wrist pin hole is blocked then the sleeve has spun. Good call to dump that block. That said, those 83 heads are still usable, big valves, and hydro lifters. The 81 you bought will be solid lifters, and small valves....might want to swap those out. FYI, also I have a good working 4spd D/R, rear diff, and driveline from an 84 wagon. I'd pass it on pretty cheap if you want it.

+1 Although I don't know if EA81 cars got them. Where would it be?

If it has a Weber then the computer and ECS light are doing nothing. Pull the bulb.

So, test drove yesterday. Could not get the toe correct, and it's pretty wonky over bumps. After investigation, I am afraid I set the trailing arm mounts too close together. I think this is causing the toe to change drastically as the suspension travels. Measured from centerline of the arm pivot, it SHOULD be at 46.6 inches. It ended up at 42.4 inches. Gonna be using the Plasma cutter a bit more I guess. on the upside, the added height and stiffer springs feel great. 14" clearance under the diff with a medium load. Of course I haven't put the rear skid back on so that weighs about 45lbs.

#3 bit in an impact driver works every time https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-7-5-in-Impact-Driver-Kit-648002/204505142?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D25T|25-1_HAND+TOOLS|NA|PLA|71700000034127224|58700003933021546|92700031755124841&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrrmN28S54AIVCtRkCh2FaAYLEAQYBCABEgK7HfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds As an alternate, if you have just a #3 phillips bit, you can hammer that sucker in there. Then try turning with a socket on the bit. Helps seat it deep, and the shock from hammering on it often unsticks the screws.

Nothing. It's unused on 4wd models (which all brats are) Is it on? 2wd wagons/sedans, etc..had "feedback" carb, which could vary air bleed to adjust mixture based on O2 sensor. I don't think Brats ever got that setup MAYBE in California?

hmm....I would want to see some #'s on a gauge. if the light comes back on again, I will bet for sure the pump backing plate is loose.

Either the pickup screen is clogged with carbon deposit, OR the backing plate of teh oil pump is coming loose. If that's the case, you need to pull the timing belt and pull the oil pump off and check it's backing plate. Verify pressure with a gauge at the sender port. If low pressure, then inspect the oil pump. Good time to do timing belt if it needs it. If pump is good, then pull oil pan and inspect pickup tube/screen.

$7 o-ring and a 15/16" socket. Change it with the oil change. You don't even have to unhook the coolant lines to it, just slip it down. If you really don't want to buy the appropriate water pump, you can get a thermostat housing from subaru that has a nipple on it and use that with the "regular" water pump. They are metal, not sure what models they were on but they are available.

The water pump for the AT may need to have a return port for the oil cooler hose. Look at yer water pump, is there hose sticking out forward? If so you need that water pump but the rest of the kit is the same.

The physical sensor at the trans yes, but the signal pulse wire that the ECU sees from the Speedometer is the same location. So if you id that wire, it should be the same MT vs. AT

broken rear CV axle? very very unlikely it's the diff, unless it's just the stub.