calebz

:-\

Depends on what you want it for. Mine no longer goes offroad. FT4WD > PT4WD D/R:-p

There was a guy quite a while back in eurpoe that was doing an EA82TT project. He stacked the turbos on the passenger side somehow.. haven't seen him in quite a while.

I know this isn't exactly the answer you are looking for, but... Since you bought a full sized spare wheel, just put a tire on it. It will still fit under the hood.

The massive exhaust leak you have going on will cause it.

You aren't one of the creepy ones are you Honestly, when someone is going on a trip or something, its common to see them post a topic about it. The people on the way or in the area being visited will generally step up and provide contact info. Additionally, as was said before. quite a lot of the long time members know each other through meets and other functions. I have met people on the board from 4-5 different states.. and have a collection of phone numbers to match it. Just from trips I have taken and personal interaction. Not saying you don't have a good idea going, but as a group, we have been doing this a long time and we tend to take care of each other already.

Your question doesn't really make any sense. Are you referring to the tranny>? The switch? the vacuum switching mechanism (solenoid pack)? The solenoid packs are the same for the pushbutton 5 speed and the FT4WD 5 speed difflock.

Not with a LHD drive car.. Turbo number 2 and the steering linkage don't play well together.

Megasquirt/megajolt

You will probably need aftermarket fuel management and possibly spark management. I doubt a stock ECU will like twin turbos.. But theres probably a way to fool it too

Where is it losing oil from? The oil pump gaskets are shot. Thats probably where the leak is and almost definitely the cause of the tickin. MMO will only work if the ticking is caused by crap build up.

that may have a bit to do with it. When ambient temps here hit 100 , my car turns into a super slug.. gas mileage goes down, power goes down.. but when it gets dark and the temps drop back down into the 80s, everything goes back to normal. Haven't really figured oout what to do about it yet.

I recently went through the same thing with my Twagon.. pulled into the drive smelling coolant, only to see a big puddle under the car.. started it up and looked to see it was coming from the pump. They are pretty easy. Can be done without pulling the radiator. Took me about an hour.. and I'm a little on the slow side..(However, I have done it a few times before)

Honda springs are longer and have a higher spring rate. Actually, the best part of a Honda is te 5MT. Its one of the strongest trannies on the market. A stock civic/accord 5MT will easilly take over twice the hp of a soob tranny.. Only problem is.. they are FWD

15 second search 5th post from the top. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18271&highlight=accord

As did I. On the RX7 IC, theres a spot for it there already.. Just run a hose from the AAV to the IC(provided your IC has a small vaccum fitting or 2 coming off of it) and you're good to go..

Small correction The blue wire referenced above is the accessory key position. The one that goes to the IGN is the plain black wire.

I will repeat. You will not be able to go above what the Ozified lift offers without fabrication. If you can design and fabricate your own stuff, then yes, the Ozified lift can be added to None, Zero, Zilch, Nada. Without fabrication you are screwed, stuffed, stuck, out of luck. Comprende?

You won't be able to go above 4/3 without some fabrication. Ozified lift is currently the only one worth a crap on the market for mass consumption in the US. It comes completely boxed and ready to go. Or you could go with 'the other' lift..

to clean it, use electrical contact cleaner.. available at the parts stor for about $3-4.. comes in a can just like carb cleaner. Don't pull it out unless its bad. I know its a pain to get to, but test it in place if you can. As far as the socket goes, the last time I had one out, the whole manifold was off and I just used a wrench.. don't rightly remember what size though. My suggestion would be to clean it, clean the plug, slap on some dielectric grease( $.99 for a packet at the parts store). reset the codes and see if theres any difference. Now to address your temp issue. My opinion is that the coolant temp sensor(ECU), while nasty and throwing a code, is probably not the issue. I would be looking at the thermoswitch for the fan.. for some reason they always seem to come on a little late for my comfort. Or possibly a sticking thermostat. If you replace the Tstat, get one from subaru. The parts store ones suck.

I have the crossmember and the ECU I have a harness as well, but not sure what kind of shape its in

Being a D/R , it should be a 3.90 But then again, maybe they do things differently on your side of the world If you are asking so you can figure out what you have in there, just look at the tag on the diff

Its nice and clean.. more than I can say for mine. These typically go for ~$700 on eBay Just remember that if you are planning on using it in a nonturbo car (you didn't say if your Loyale was turbo or not) You will need the wiring harness, ECU, crossmember and exhaust to go with it. Let me know if you decide to do it. I have some of the parts you will need.

Link?

Somehow I don't think its the fuel pressure. He's running 34 psi. According to my FSM, stock is 36.3 psi, relative to manifold pressure.