calebz

Not hard.. I've done it.. a search will trun up lots of info about it. Ground clearance.. if you are only after a couple of inches, 14 inch pugs with 25-26 inch tires and the long 4wd wagon struts will do fine.. there isn't really any large tire you can put on the stock 13 inch wheels

Why are you selling the other scoop.. IMO, its better than the one I am using(the one you will be using)

Nice work man thats badass.. were you able to keep your windshield washer fluid resevior?

Gas.. Pour some in, put your hands over the holes, Shake, drain and repeat.

Looks like you will be using a BOV instead of the WRX recirc? let me know if you want to get rid of the recirc. I need one for the WRX IC. Once again, Nice scoop;)

Your car is an 88 RX coupe right? If so, its the same body as a loyale, but it is not a loyale.. MOST(not all) of the loyale's are SPFI, in which case, the connectors are under the hood where you described. However, yours being an RX, the connectors are under the dash. The white connector you show in pic #2 is simply the wiring for the difflock switch.(that little switch in the center console that locks the center differential in your transmission. I will try to get out and get a pic of the read memory connectors for you later today. The o2 monitor light in the ECU that you have a pic of is the light that blinks out the error codes in the various diagnostic settings.

What car? year / make(subaru obviously ) / model.. all that neat stuff.. If its not something I can get the time to look at, Make an appointment with Subaru of Dallas, ask for Scott in service and tell him I sent you there.

Yeah.. what rob said... Why would you keep a crappy rust piece of crap carb car when you have a nice SPFI car to put that D/R tranny in to? Lift? that totally depends on what you want.. but don't bother if you are going to keep the stock wheels. All the lift does is raise up the body to allow for larger wheel / tire combos. If you aren't going to utilize that aspect of it, its a waste of money. Bottom line.. Loyale = Good candiate for trans swap 85 = Parts.

Heres my take on a couple of things. 1- Window switch housing. I have had the same problem in every one of my soobs. I found the easiest solution has been some longer and slightly fatter screws. Once I have done that, I have never had to mess with it again. 2- Connectors. While all of the info about codes and such given above is correct, the connectors below are not any kind of diagnostic connectors. They are the power and ground wires for the vacuum solenoids that control your difflock.

Its time to upgrade to a Legacy

Drill and an easy out and you may be able to get it out.

Unless I missed something, they don't have the XT6 clutch either.

Need more info Auto or manual? Turbo or SPFI? What do you mean by 'street worthy'? It will never be fast. Just start with that assumption and enjoy it for what it is. I have what is probably one of the top 10 fastest EA82s here, and its a slug (the ones that are faster are waayyy more heavily modified than mine)..

Lots of GL-10s came as a manual..just no D/R(unless the RX FT4WD was an option.. don't know about that.. never seen or heard of one) The manual in my GL-10 came from another GL-10.. Heck, since you are looking at Turbones car, just have a look at his 86 GL-10 with the factory 5 speed.

Yup, they came with the 3AT.. I've had 3 of them (GL-10s) that did.. my current driver was a 3AT before I got my hands on it

You can get an SPFI wagon from 87 to 89 with a D/R 5 speed. Most of the GL-10s are turbo, not all 3AT was not the only auto transmission available, 4EAT became available in 87, but I have only ever seen it in turbo models Digidashes from 87 and up don't tend to be problematic. Relaibility of a turbo? No problem if its maintained.. I have been using the same turbo motor for 2 years and the only failures I have had have been things that could have happened on any EA82. Nothing turbo specific.

ECU.. ECM.. same thing, different terminology. I don't think there is a seperate Fuel pump control unit on EA82 cars. Its all controlled by the ECU(ECM) in combination with the distributor.. if the distributor isn't turning, the fuel pump will only run for about 1.5 seconds.. long enough to pressurize the system.. That may be why you are not seeing power at the fuel pump. Probably not, but possibly. The manual you have isn't very useful for this stuff on a turbo car (assuming its the same haynes manual I have).. Most of the haynes manual are more geared toward EA81 stuff. Under the dash, there are 2 green connectors, plug them in and turn on the key. you should hear the fuel pump cycle on and off in 1.5 second intervals with those plugs connnected. If there are active error codes, they will also display on the small LED on the front of the ECU at that point.

Welcome to the board. Theres a ton of info on the tranny swap here.. A number of us have done it (myself included) Theres also a bit of info on your turbo questions. Do a search to get a general idea of what you want and what you'll need. Then then I'm sure any specific questions can be answered by one of us.

Doh!.. leave it to me to miss the obvious.. Thankfully the Robs of the world are there as a backstop:)

Fuel pump relay is under the dash, above the ECU.. there are two relays there one is ignition and one is fuel pump. Are there any error codes showing on the ECU?.. is there a light at all? And one more thing.. this may sound really weird... check your horn fuse PS.. welcome to the board.. we'll get you fixed up in no time. Worst case is you might have to have one of the WA or OR boys come help you out... Theres lots of them here.

ITS NOT AWD!!!! (if you are using the 4speed, or any other tranny where it has to be 'engaged' by the push of a button or pull of a lever) Sorry, pet peeve:-p Rob, straighten this kid out..

No such beast as an AWD 4 speed manual for a soob.. there is a 4WD D/R 4 speed though.. basically your best bet is a donor car.. and If I remember correctly, the tranny tunnel will probably need some pounding out. I have done it on an EA82 car, but not on an EA81 GD and Turbone would be the guys to give you details, but if you have all the parts, a halfway decent tool set and a little mechanical knowledge, its not that hard.

If the car is an auto, the old screwdriver in the timing window trick should work. If its a manual, check the USRM for moosens trick on the hole in the flywheel/bellhousing thing... worked for me

EA81 1800cc OHV= Old EA82 1800cc OHC= Not quite as old

What car? is the cable broken, or is the speedo head borked? If its a digidash car(87+) I have a spare digidash with that works.