Turbone

Lol, our market is completely different than yours :-p If its in very good shape, you should make a good profit. If not, your going to have to haggle over price. Good luck with the sale.

How long have you been working on that now? Go to the XT6 site and look up Mr.Radon. He built a ER27 using hi-po parts. He has all the links and products he used, very detailed. Definatly check the timing and if you did use something other than the suggested MAF cleaner, you could be looking at replacing the unit.

Doing a search on NASIOC should reveal alot of results. The swap has been done quite a bit with lots of variations. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=1&f=87

Dude, you were in a beladonic haze when you think you saw that. The car does not exist The only way to tell if the car is a RX is by the VIN #.

Actually, thats one of the things that doesnt effect the digidashes. Its usually due to old, weak components that cant handle a voltage spike from a alternator thats probably got a few weak diodes in it.

Just leave it hooked up in the car and give it juice at the terminals. Pull the back off the ign....you know the rest Once the power is on, you should be able to see if theres a read out.

Nice score...... Dont forget, I got mine for $450 almost 5yrs ago. Now I have about $2500 into it And worth every penny :-p

No, no tee fitting. It comes off the side of the t-stat housing and runs on top of the intake, back to the turbo. Theres a short hard line then a soft line, then back to a hard line on the turbo. The hose is maybe 6in long. I replaced mine with a silicone hose, but it started leaking again. Found out the clamp wasnt tight. Theres another hose, much smaller, about 1/4, that runs from the housing to the intake. That little thing likes to leak when it gets old too.

Theres a hard return line that runs from the turbo, going under it and along side the head to the front where theres a boss in the head. The feed line is on top, from the t-stat housing to the turbo.

Any old Subaru is rare in Austria, GD.

Yeah, I didnt catch it the first time. I've had to get pretty agressive with them before. Shake, jerk, cuss, whatever it takes.

Theres 2 more nuts on studs on the bottom. There should be a total of 4. If you have a jack of some sort, put it under the tranny to lift it a little.

That is also correct. Some say its a 40/60 split, others say its a 50/50 split.

And look for vacume leaks.

You will need to prove that, or no one is going to believe you. Including me.

The half years only pertain to a couple of models. The 87.5 XT-T...........Fulltime 4wd with spyder intake and 4EAT. The 89.5 RX.........Fulltime 4wd, D/R w/difflock and the color black.

I dont know. My RX is nice and tight and my SVX can fall out (same with the Hatch). The springs might be wore out on the cams inside the switch.

I suggest you do some research here about the EA82T.

I bet a AT with the right stall converter in it, offroading would be feasible (turbo). And the WRX is a EJ20.

Ok, just to prove it can be done.......... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1475098

Its the same for all EA82's. The timing will be different, it should say on the hood tag.

It could be the fuel pump control unit. But without a parts book for the EA81's I dont know for sure.

Does it have a good side? :-p

It looks like thier propulsion system didnt work out like they planned. Because it sure looks like they be paddling to me!