Turbone

It sounds like torque bind. This is when the center diff is trying to equalize the power to the front wheels at the same time as the rear wheel. They dont turn at the same revolutions when in a sharp turn and the diff tries to. Its quite common, but its usually not that noticable. I would check your tires. If they are of different sizes, this will increase the bind. More so if they are worn and mismatched. New tires will/might reduce most of the torque binding. This query would recieve more answers over in the New Gen forum tho. And welcome to the USMB.

Oh boy, that 1098 got me hot:slobber:

Heh, you guys just make it home?

Hope that sucker has good insurance (theft):-p On a side note. Cars are worth more if they are unmolested. That means even doing touch up stuff like painting the snorkus and cleaning the engine bay. If you watch some of the classic car auctions of SpeedTV and ESPN, those are the ones that fetch the most money. It means they are "All Original"

The USMB has a on-line repair forum (USRM), all you need to do is search;) But here is a link to the procedure. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

I was correct in saying that its next to the battery. I just got cornfused with the washer tank and coolant tank:-p But glad you got things working again.

It might help if I gave the correct location for stuff:rolleyes: Or at least give it the right name:-p

The tranny you need for the EA81 engine might be in the Tacoma Pull a Part. There were a couple of 4wd EA81's in the yard a couple of weeks ago when I was there. They dont charge much either, usually around $75. Tacoma PAP is on Steele St. just off of Hwy512.

I dont think he's in the market for 30's anymore. He has the wagon up for sale now.

13in alloys. I have 4 of these. Only have 3 of these. Please let me know if you have any. Same with these. I'll add more if I can find pics.

Now the truth comes out:rolleyes: Back track what ever you did to wire your horn up and I bet you will find your problem.

Fusible link box is located next to the battery. Black, rectangular looking thing with a cover on it. Also attached to the washer tank/resivoir.

Fix a $125 Subaru thats toasted? You guys from the east:rolleyes: The wiring is probably all a puddle of plastic and copper. And look where he's from.....the PNW! He can find another Soob in a couple of days, for around the same price!

Ed, I just might need those. Someone took 2 that were in the Tacoma PAP and left the other 2, along with all 4 center caps:confused: Go figure. So I have 2 motion wheels and 4 centercaps:rolleyes:

Might be able to ride shotgun with me;) If something else doesnt come up:rolleyes:

Ehhh, did something else happen today?

Ok, I'm going to add a couple more of mine. They look better than a couple of the ones I posted earlier.

Hey,,,,,it didnt come with instructions?:-p

Qmans offroad Brat has a straight axle with leafs under it. Cant recall how he did it, but you might find out by doing a search.

Why, thank you:-p As everyone knows, I'm into black. For me, having a red car was extreeemly rare. But this one was the ticket:headbang: But now, it could be going byebye. Sorry for the HJ.

Like GD said, find the shank of a drill bit that fits and use that. I like to thread lock the sucker (crank bolt) myself.

Metric reading gauges? Where did you hear that? BGD? LOL. Standard reading gauges are fine. What you may have to do tho is tap out where the sending units go. I had to do this on my RX for the oil and water gauges. Quite simple really, the tap size is usually a 1/4 20. And the kits usually come with adapters and such. I'm using a electrical oil gauge as the turbo gets things to hot and I dont want a mess from a melting plastic oil line. Yes I know I can use copper, actually have some. But its a pita to run to a A pillar gauge pod:-p Btw, I got my gauges on ebay. They are made by Glow Shift and have 7 different colors, etc.

Should be able to move it ok. The oil pump has 5 bolts if I remember correctly. It can be a pain to remove sometimes. If you are replacing the seal on the shaft, remove the nut holding the pulley before taking off the belt. Its much easier then. When removing the pump, you need to rotate it some while rocking it back and forth. Sometimes they are heat sealed onto the block and may take some force to get it to move initially. Valve cover gaskets are a good idea, but the bolts that hold them on also have rubber bushings. These are only available from the Dealer and they are expensive. I think $6ea. So 4 for one side and 5 for the other. If you are doing cam seals and the o-rings too, the backside timing covers have to come off also. Then you can remove the cam end housing. The whole cam will want to come out when you pull on it, so tap it back in when pulling the housing off. When you get the housing off, the seal replacement is a peice of cake. Turn it over and punch out the old seal with the crank bolt. The new seal will almost push in by hand. Then install the o-ring and put it all back together.

And that would be?...................100mi away:-\ And I need to bring a helper with me, so he has to be taken back too. A no win scenario.

I got a kid thats almost at driving age. I'm selling my other XT. Got to feed that addiction, you know. I would have to miss alot more to meet carfreaks record:-p