Turbone

Someone else posted it on the weekend I believe....... Will be ineteresting to see in person.

You might be the only one from CO coming.

No. The reason is that the older wagon wheels are made for a smaller front brake caliper.

I might be in after all. Its possible I have a driver for my 2nd car, which means the Hatch will be coming:headbang: Eh, no 90mph+ now:rolleyes:

Sweet deal! Cant beat free:headbang: Hmmmm.....I wonder if a Nissan T-Case can handle 2.2 power:brow:

Pretty sure those are Subaru wheels, I have a set.

Get ahold of these guys. They are both members here also and might be able to help. http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5888

Can also try a strap wrench used for oil filters.

Eh? The idea is to not use a half a tube of the stuff to get a seal. A little bit goes a long way. I've done several oil pumps this way and have never had a leak or problem otherwise. But hey, what do I know, Ive only owned over 20 Subaru's and been working on them since 1987:rolleyes:

Its not going to get worse just sitting there for a while. You can still give Jason a call, by the time it gets to you, you might be healed up.

There is no paper gasket with the Dealer provided rebuild kit. Never heard of one being used either. BUT, where the block halfs mate together, theres a small area on the bottom of the pump mating surface that you need to use some RTV on. Sometimes the 2 surfaces are uneven.

I paid $700 for the last running XT6 I bought. Some here have paid less and got more and others got it the other way. Theres no way we can put a value on the car your interested in, you have no info on it to give us. Once you do, we should be able to give you a ballpark figure. But remember, anytime you go to a dealership, the price is marked up by at least 200% (if not more).

I got a buckle just like that off Ebay last year. Cant wear it, it pinches me belly:rolleyes:

Just wait, Qman hasnt posted his yet:brow: Thanks Mick, I just went to Ebay and bought a couple more:lol: I'm beyond help:cool:

I've got a Subaru Tech one and the round one thats blue and silver. Also have a SPT one.

Yep, that was my bad. I read it right from the FSM and put volts instead of watts:rolleyes: Gotta get my glasses checked.........again.

Most unique/rare?

Theres a long piece of wire that runs from one runner to the other. So when it locks the adj side it locks the other runner as well.

I want to get there before its dark so I can set up camp. So I guess that means I will be going at warp speed:D That reminds me. One of the things I need to install before leaving? The radar detector:brow:

No, if there was a difference in temp between the top and bottom, then there would be a problem. It almost sounds like a sticking t-stat. Not sure if you said you replaced it or not?

The 1156 is a turn signal bulb. You need to get the right bulb, the manual says its a 3.8v bulb but gives no #. Its half the size of the 1156 tho.

Exactly. Calebz also had this problem. If you get boost happy I guarentee your engine is not going to last. And dont try and tell me you will be conservative, it aint going to happen. You cant resist it:burnout:

I think my rant for the week will be parts jockeys:mad: MORONS:horse: They all come greased:rolleyes:

Make sure the wires to it are tight. If they are, then the coil is toast. It happens.

The EA82T 5spd has 82hp, the AT has 111hp. Thats what the FSM says, I hope its a typo. The reason you install a IC is for when you increase the boost. It helps keep the intake air cool. Your best bet for more HP for these engines is to do something with the intake (IC, cone filter, etc), put a larger exhaust on (3in), increase the size of the turbo (TD04). Then keep your fingers crossed. Some here are putting cams in and/or using a SPFI block for higher comp. Not advisable if a DD.