Turbone

Hey, this is Washington, what do you expect? They are going to make a bundle too Last years Show was at a venue where there werent to many other non-soob owners. This year it might be a little different because of the size of the campgrounds. I dont think we will be the only ones there. What I'm trying to say, (and dont get me wrong, I trust most of you) no matter how much you trust the people attending, never leave anything of value in plain sight and in easy reach. Temptation is a powerful thing.

Check all the grounds in the engine bay. There is one to the rad support from the engine by the battery, theres another from the tranny up to the tire support. Make sure theres no corrosion in the wires themselfs.

Looks like you 2 need to swap vehicles You do better driving the others car

My 86 Turbo Wagon has rpm sensor, it will be beep if the rpm's get to high and you are supposed to shift. This is on a digidash.

Carbed 2.0? Dont think they even make one. Its real hard for us to give you any info if we dont know the year of the engine or what car it came out of. You need to look at the engine in the area of the front passenger side and look for a stamp in the block. This should tell you the engine class.

Might try this person for a alternator. Tapper

The computer is under the rear package tray in the trunk, on the right side. This sounds more like a electrical problem than a compression one.

Hmm, I could be wrong with the terminology, it could be just a pot. Mr. Radon gave me the unit.

But the car resides in Oregon. The plate on my XT6 is at the same angle too. Helps keep the radar from going back to the source

Theres a couple of people that have stuffed a EA82 into a EA81 body, its not that easy. If you are going to use SPFI, you will need the wiring harness and the fuel supply system. But, if you are going to go to all this trouble, then the EJ22 swap is the way to go. Mudrat makes the tranny adapter for the swap and the engine is a better fit(barely). Use the search function, theres been lots of discussion on the swap.

Yeah, I read that over at the "Other Board" after I posted here. Go figure Theres nothing that I could find in the FSParts book, they dont tell you why it has different numbers.

Annnnnnd, a varistor can be attached to the duty soleniod C to adjust the ratio to the rear I havent done it yet, have the part, but some others over at XT6.net have.

First of all, why do you think it needs pressure testing? What year car is it? Some cracks between the valves are common on Soob heads, the ones that go up into the exhaust manifold are the bad ones. You dont need to pressure test to see if it needs resurfaced, just use a good straight edge to see if its warped. If the heads are rebuilt by a good shop, there shouldnt be any problem with them. Make sure they give some kind of warranty.

I have the parts numbers as; XT - 25721 GA461 HH XT6 - 25721 GA810 HH I cant see any difference in them except for the numbers.

Yup, thats a perty one :cool: Hope you can get the bugs worked out. Enjoy!

Never seen a Soob run like this with mis-aligned belts. They run like crap at all times when the belts are wrong. MW, when you test the comp in the cylinders take a timing light with you and check it too. I would say go ahead and change the fuel filter, but one for a FI car is around $20. The car has been sitting for quite a while, I take it, so fuel delivery and quality could be the issue.

I would be wondering what that Dealership did with the car maintenance wise. Did they bother to tune it up at all before they put it out for sale? It sure sounds like the timing is off from his description of being underpowered and pinging.

Have you found the maintenance records for it yet? I missed your first post on what exactly the car/engine is, but it obviously has a automatic in it. 3spd single range 4wd? The worst thing Subaru ever put in a car The SPFI should be a little quicker than a NA, but with the AT behind it, its a mute point. But, you can do a 5spd swap. Lots of them around, might find a good deal on one. The problem is, its very labor intensive to go from AT to Manual. Lots of parts to swap, but its all bolt on. If you think the car is worth it, maybe down the road a swap will look better.

Good luck Austin, hope your trip in uneventful. Sorry I couldnt make it over to say bye, but have a good trip Buddy.

SC is north of me, I'm heading South. Maybe we can meet you all at 512 and I-5. Any times yet on when the migration begins?

Is that reading at idle? I would say thats fair if at idle, bad if at a higher RPM.

Nope, no other way. How long did it take to remove the one bolt and jack the engine up :-p

Is this mileage correct, or just a typo? If you meant to say that the car has 250,000mi on it, you definately need to do some major preventitive maintenance. This high mileage is not uncommon btw, many Subarus make it beyond this mark. But they do only if regular maintenance is done. There will be some major costs down the road, no car is perfect (Subaru comes close ). If the car really has only 25,000mi on it and you have the maintenance records, make sure what it was serviced for frequently. This would lead to a problem when it was manufactured (LEMON) and there is nothing you can do about it (my opinion only). I'm not sure if a Legacy rad will fit in a Loyale, its a different layout under the hood. Just make sure you do all you can before winter to insure nothing surprises you.

The Turbo models here are all 4WD(EA81). That means the shocks/struts are all 4WD, unless a previous owner swapped them for 2wd struts.

The plastic cover/grill needs to come off. Be careful, these break easily. The clips are top and bottom. Once you have it off theres screws top and bottom for the speaker. It can be a pain to get the speaker out, so take your time.