Turbone

Most of the people on the board use NGK exclusively. Rob

You can change the cap/rotor/plugs wires if you wish, its a good idea. Its not neccessary to change the disty. Do you know when the car was last tuned up? You might want to change the sparkplugs too. If possible get a manual for your year, it will help with the firing order when you put the wires on the new cap. I think yours might be fuel injected, but I'm not positive. Rob

If your just talking about the coil its real simple. Depending on what engine you have, it could be on the left or right of the engine bay. Its a 7in round cylindrical piece with a big wire coming out the top(this goes to the disty) and 3 wires on the + post and 2 on the - post. Wrap a piece of tape around the wires to the + side of the coil. Remove all the wires from the coil, remove coil, install new coil. The wires that you taped together will go to the + post of the coil, the rest go to the - post. Now isnt that easy? Rob BTW, the board is here to help, not scoff.

How did it get bent? There may be more than a pushrod wrong with it. Rob

Real nice setup there Skip. I've torn apart one Alt. to find out how much of a PIA it would be to rework one. Not that hard really, if you have any soldering skills. I called a local auto elec place and the rectifier is $35 and the regulator is $25. A previous post about the same subject has some interesting prospects on the GM/Chevy alt's. Maybe a write-up on both (ie, upgrade on the American alt) would be a good addition to the USRM. Do you have any idea why our alt's get toasted so easily? My assumption is the high R's, maybe a bigger pulley would slow the alt down. Rob

I dont know about the 90's, but earleir Soobs have the VIN stamped on the firewall also. Rob

Is there a chance the lever could have broken off? There should be the end of a cable down there if so. The switch could be for a set of driving/fog lights. Rob

Hey Del, I'm selling my 84 Turbo Coupe. I'm in the process of repairing some minor rust and doing a tranny swap (keeping the 3AT 4XPB). If your interested let me know. Rob

X-member, and I dont know what the suspension is like on a pre 80's Soob, but you might consider changing over. Rob

Although I only met him briefly at WCSSIII, I found him very likeable. I share everyones thoughts about him also. Its a tragedy to be taken away so sensesly, and just when he was starting a family. We will be thinking of him and his family, please get us the addy for the Bank, John.

I have 2 questions. How did he do the rear handbrake? And how did he widen the wheel track? That is one pretty Brat. Rob

Had email correspondance with him 3/4 months ago and he said he would get my item (84 elec manual) out to me. It still hasnt arrived. I think Billy really screwed up on this. After saying he had a warehouse of parts he was getting and promising everyone lots of parts, he's only come through for a few people. I'm only out $20, but now any of the stuff he has or was going to get to others will never see the board. He's lost all credibility in my book and will not ever give him the chance to take my money again, or any one elses hopefully. I know he just got married, etc etc, but if your paid for something you promised, either deliver or give the $ back:madder: Rob

If the oil seal is leaking, you will find excessive carbon deposits on the tubine, like on a sparkplug. If the exhaust smoke is blue and you suspect the compressor side oil seal is leaking, check for excessive oil in the plenum. If its obvious that the turbocharger is blowing oil into the pipe, first check the PCV system and other possible engine causes before condemning the turbo.. Rob

Might help if you dropped the steering colum down, give you a little more room to remove it(little voice of exp:brow: ) Rob

I've heard of a couple people taking the exhaust off and putting a coat hanger down the inlet, then picking out the guts. Personally, this would take way to long. I used a die grinder and cut a good sized flap in it. Its still a PIA to get the stuff out, and welding it back together is touchy. The metal is 2 layers thick and different gauges to boot. Rob

And post a link so's we can all see it:D Rob

is the same. Locking the doors turns off the light. My parking brake light is the one that flickers. Rob

Andrew, I was thinking AT, not MT. Thats a real lamer too, I have the same tranny in my 86 GL-10 Turbo wagon:banghead: Rob

The coupe motors will work, not sure about the wagons tho. Shorter doors could mean shorter arms, but thats not for sure. If Qman doesnt have any, I might have a couple lying around. Rob

Vickaroo, would you like to talk to my wife? Actually, shes pretty good about stuff I bring home. She just doesnt like to see parts cars hang around to long. Rob

Check your fuses, its electrically operated. If those are ok, check the connector on top of the tranny (PIA). If thats ok, then thers a problem with the selenoid. On the 80's models its located on the right side toward the rear of the unit and about the size of a ......axle nut(closest I can come). All it is, is a pin that goes in/out to engage 4wd. Rob

Yes, it helps ground the fan(s) to the chassis and engine. There should be something like a flange or lip on the new rad to screw it to. Rob

I only made it up there on Sat it was a blast. Its to bad we have to wait so long to 4X together again. I wish I could have made up there on Sun but family takes no backseat (especially when you dont have one!). Hope to see you again soon Jared, Semper Fi! Rob

Thanks Caleb. But what Soob doesnt leak oil? Rob

Is it below the idiot lights? In the manual(86) it shows the rear wiper and washer switch in that area. Rob