Turbone

Considering how rusted out it is, I would check before installing any lift hardware. If you plan on just lifting with tires, go for it.

Its built into the alternator, you need a new one or a rebuilt (alternator).

Might consider a hi-po coil, 8mm plug wires and NGK Iridium plugs. If your replacing all the bearings, seals, etc I would use a good synthetic oil.

Mud? Royal? Right/left? Prison?

Thats why I said its weird. The problem showed up all of a sudden, out of the blue. It acts like its running out of gas, not flooding. Hmmm, just had a thought. Wonder if my choke is closing?

Thanks guys, I did a search and found the info on the fpcu right after my post. I hot wired the pump to make sure it works, it does. I started the car and it ran for a min, then died. The carb (Weber) is getting fuel, I can see it squirting into the intake. I might have to go back to my original assumption, that I have bad gas. Who knows where the pickup is in the tank? Front or back? Heres my symptoms, they are quite strange... Runs ok, until you stop or turn right. Then it dies I already took the top off the carb to see if theres junk in it, its clean. And I installed a new filter up front (no filter in the back).

Trying to find out why my fp isnt working and I'm having difficulty locating the fp relay on my 85 Brat (no power to fp with key all the way on, no ecu). Is it under the dash, or under the passenger seat?

The bolt pattern on the up-pipe is different for the TD04. You need to cut the flange off the up-pipe and replace it withe one from a WRX up-pipe. Any EA82T up-pipes/down-pipes will work on a EA81T also and are easier to find for modding.

Ah, ok. In your original post you said you had no insurance, so I was wondering what was up.

Isnt insurance required in WV?

You guys need to use the search function more :-p http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89699&highlight=mitsubishi+injectors I ran the Mitsu injectors on my last EA82T. Add a 255lph fuel pump and you should be golden.

Mmmmm.....pizza/beer. You going to buy my brand?

From what I've heard, the rad from a AT car is a 2 row. I'll see if I can find the scoop.

If you go over to Nasioc, specifically NWIC, check out the classifieds. There are usually some for sale. I would get a WRX IC that has all the parts to it, the y-pipe, recirc valve, etc. I can look to see if my old scoop is still good, if you want that one. BOV are for ricers

Using PM's will work fine. I take it, this is your first Subaru? If so, listen to what North Wet is saying. A colder t-stat will not let the engine warm up to operating temp, which leads to other problems with the engine. Installing a IC will help quite a bit, it dropped my engine temp drastically. Replace every cooling line on the engine, make sure they are quality hoses too. Finding gen 3 heads is very difficult, almost impossible. I think 90 is the only year they were made and it was a bandaid for the remaining engines for that year. I'm not sure if they are available from the dealership or not still, but you could try asking. The digi dashes in these models are ok, the early ones from 85-86 were orange and were hard to see. 87 and up are green and brighter. The ones that NW mentioned are pre 85 and not in these models.

I'm not sure if the wiring for the inst cluster is a direct plug-in or not, theres only one way to find out, eh? As for the HG, if your not going to up the boost just get the Felpro ones you dont have to re-torque. And just over torque the heads by 10lbs and use the spray I mentioned.

I thought the same thing for many years, and I made it work for a while. Eventually you will get tired of swapping engines/headgaskets/etc ad infinitum. What do you plan on doing about the HG problem? I used copper spray sealant on my HG and over torqued them by 10ft lbs, the last 2 builds never blew or leaked. But because I increased the boost, I blew the ring lands off a piston. The heads crack because they dont cool well enough and the water jacket walls are to thin. There are 3 gens of heads, the 3rd being the best, but they will crack if overheated enough. Also the passenger side head gets coolant last and its next to the turbo. Building a EA82T to handle more boost takes $$$, you cant do it on a budget......trust me. Search and read my threads about my RX here and in the Retrofit Forum, you'll see what I've done in the last 5-6yrs. You will need to swap out the wiring harness for the interior also. The sending units for both cars are different, gas, oil, temp, etc. You've got a lot of work ahead of you. I might have done it 10yrs ago, but its not worth all the trouble anymore :-\ And this is a warning to GD - If you post in this thread, I'll delete it. Just forget you ever heard of the EA82T.

Wow, its about time

86 GL10 Turbo Wagon, it was free. After...

I know her situation and car well, she didnt give all the details :-p Its not factory, its aftermarket (NO drain holes). Her hubby (Mykeystoy) contacted the original installers (from 1983!) and they couldnt help - they said go to a custom shop. It needs to be completely replaced, thats why she's looking for a shop in the Puget Sound area that does sunroofs. As for the headliner, its the thick cardboard with vinyl liner on it. Its not pliable or easy to bend, therefor it doesnt tuck into the surround of the inner seal. I think that when they find a shop that can replace the unit, they will be able to do something to fix the headliner (hopefully). Thats it, all they need is some help finding a shop in our area that does custom sunroofs.

Enable your PM function please.

Before... Still not finished with it. The 95 Imp I had for a while. Before... Theres more, but I wont subject everyone to the horror. After... My old 92 SVX right before I got it... This is what brake fluid does to paint... After... The 89 XT6 that Caboob owned/I got/He got back... After... 89XT MPFI 5spd 4WD. Before... After... My first lifted Hatch. Before... After...