Turbone

Welcome to the USMB. If you get that other EA82T, replace the hg's, timing belts and water pump all at the same time. Much easier that way. While your replacing the hg's you can check the heads out, you may want to have them resurfaced. When you want to do the engine swap, go to the Retrofit forum and read up (lots). I bet you dont want to drive that CRX around in winter again, I saw how much snow you got last year (former resident of San Berdo Mtns).

It should be a simple bolt in swap.

Go ahead and post it in the Offroad Forum.

Sorry Mark, my comments were meant for kanurys. I left your update post in that thread, unless someone else deleted it. I'm waiting to hear back from my masters to see if its ok to post a thread in the Offroad Forum. The other forums should remain free of the group buy.

I asked before to not cross post. You apologized and today posted again. I'll bring it up with the other mods to see if they will allow it. Would you please PM me the links to the other threads about group buys also?

Maybe you should read up more on his career... In 07 he finished 5th in Mexico (the best in-class finish by an American in a WRC event since John Buffum finished third in the Acropolis Rally in 1988) and finished tenth in Argentina. Even HE said is was a horrible season for him I think poor results would be last or DNF. His Rally America stats are pretty stellar. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Travis_Pastrana

I've used the copper spray on the last couple of HG jobs I've done. A couple of EA82T's and a EJ22T. Never blew a HG after using the spray, just the ring lands on the EA82T's I have metal HG on the EJ, so I thought it would be a good idea to use it there also.

You have to get to later gens for the lego connection. Anything thats EA81 (80-88 GL) will have to have custom stuff made for it. EA82 (85-93) does have some plug & play stuff available from newer gen (search this forum for 5 lug swap). What the EA81 gen has going for it is simplicity. You can fab up stuff for it some what easily. Theres lots of projects in this forum, take the time to read thru some that pertain too what you want. And as a example of what can be done to a Hatch, this is mine.

I thought there were flat spots on each end of the shafts where the u-joint bolt clamps so that doesnt happen? I know the EA series are like that.

Your about the same distance away from me as you were before I've got a wire feed welder and mediocre skills, with lots of other tools and skills. I know theres a couple of yards by the airport on Hwy 3 between Gorst and Bremerton. Feel free to come by anytime.

Bratsrus1 has a carbed/disty EJ18 in his modded Hatch. He got the disty parts from a mate in Oz too.

I've bought several sets - EA81 and EA82 from these folks. Never had one problem with shipping or product. http://stores.ebay.com/R1Concepts/_i.html?_nkw=subaru+brat&submit=Search&LH_TitleDesc=1&_ipg=&_sasi=1&_sid=77318915 And heres your Brembo's. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/25253-2-Front-brake-disc-Subaru-MANY-Non-Chinese-Brembo-/180550177611?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make:Subaru|Model:GL|Year:1984&hash=item2a09a1134b#ht_898wt_851

I forgot to mention that the 93 had a EJ18 in it. But the rest of the info is correct. And I've heard of (never seen) of EJ's without knockers going boom.

How would that explain the 97 I swapped into the 93? The 93 didnt have the wiring for it either. I asked several knowledgeable people and they told if it didnt have one, dont worry about it. If it did require one and I didnt install it, it would have grenaded long ago.

I believe it will work if you use your current intake and harness. I swapped a 97 EJ22 into a 93 Imp and had no issues, it still runs fine. If the 99 has a knock sensor, make sure your 91 did. If not, you will need to swap ECU's.......and have more wiring issues.

I suggest you keep it at stock boost until you get it tuned. Do a search here for your questions... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=-1&f=37

You also might want to do a visual on the steering rack boots. If they are cracked or split, it will allow debris to contaminate the rack.

4.2 quarts. I believe the search function would have found this info

They are still in the process of getting sponsors, etc. They are attracting a lot of interest, some from larger corporations. Some of the events they were talking about will be specifically for corporations. Team building type weekends, that sort. I think that cost might drop with a group, so if several people sign up for a day class prices might be doable. I dont think they will have any problem with providing Group N cars, I saw the garage and parts room :-p They also may have a different class of car for the people going to the one day class, the hi power cars for weekend class (I'm not 100% sure on this). But regardless, I'm sure you will get your $ worth. I've already told (Ms) Santa what I want for X-Mas.

Theres a lot more to go wrong with it. At the high a mileage, I would look at all the belts and hoses, mainly the hoses. With a turbo all the rubber gets baked under the hood. The cooling lines to the turbo are the most concern. You might get lucky and its had the heads redone, which could mean they are Gen 3 heads (less likely to have cracking issues). This will be stamped right next to the exhaust header underneath. Again, make sure theres some kind of maintenance history. If you are unsure, back away (some will say run, lol)

I believe if you get it wrong on a DOHC, your valve train is toast.

Oh cool.....a thread for whining. I have nothing to add, knock on wood.

All turbo cars should be run on premium. As for the one you are looking at, I would base my decision on mileage and proof of maintenance. If it was well maintained, then I would consider buying it (if thats what you want). If the engine looks like it was neglected or not maintained on a regular basis, stay away.

Grant and some others have adapters and steering wheels.

I think if you complete the Inhibitor switch circuit, it might fix the problem.