1 Lucky Texan

ours hold 22-25oz. (should be a label somewhere in the engine compartment with your car's capacity) you probably didn't put enough in after your vacuum.

are there MLS gaskets for the H6 ?

gah! sorry. if ALL the cams are 'unloaded' all valves should be closed and moving the crank safe - see post below.

I have read that cam angle fault will cause the ECU to cut fuel.

OK, I think you need someone else to diagnose this issue. The symptoms you have MAY point to a coolant leak into a cylinder or into the oil - but 'classic' H4 gasket failures from the late 90s cars pushes coolant into (and sometimes out of) the overflow. I can't recall reading of someone with a dry o'flow tank. I'm not saying you don't have a severe problem that might only be fixed with new HGs, but, you might also try some of the Subaru coolant conditioner as the symptoms you report just might be helped by it. And another shop's opinion for $100 or $200 to possibly avoid thousands might be money well spent. Even something like a coolant system pressure test could confirm that coolant is going into a cylinder. Out out of another bad hose somewhere. have you pulled the plug from the misfiring cyl and compared to another? there are picture guides on line that can help identify problems based on the appearance of a plug. You can also send an oil sample to Blackstone labs to look for coolant. You might also consider a junkyard engine swap - might even find one with a lot fewer miles.

you cannot rely on just looking at the overflow tank's level. You must also confirm coolant is up to the bottom of the rad cap in the radiator.

IACV hose loose?

seems to me, there's no certainty about the HG leak - except for dealership info. If it had no symptoms of HG leaking before the fuel pump issue (which you MAY have been able to fix for ~$75) why did these symptoms show up at the dealership? I think you might consider getting another opinion. But, if you've made-up your mind, consider measuring the valve clearances and be prepared to adjust any out of spec - not a trivial job. if there is misfiring, that could easily lead to a fuel smell - unburnt fuel. the CEL on? post any codes. If coolant isn't being pushed into the overflow, if no streams of bubbles are seen in the radiator while running - I'd be tempted to think the shop is fishing for some of your $$$.

on the 2014, do any of the airbags exit from a seat back? Seat covers might interfere with that. just wondering.

swap the tires front to back first. probably not an issue but - easy to try. And sounds like you feel certain there's no binding of caliper movement.(some people remove the rubber bushing on the slider pin) do a bedding-in procedure. a moderate one first. If no change at all (better OR worse) do an aggressive bed-in . If the problem gets worse after any bed in, you may have a part of a rotor with altered alloy characteristics (cementite ?) and you will need a new rotor. there are different ways to do bedding in, just make CERTAIN you do it in an area where it will be safe (from other people and police) to accelerate and slow down aggressively - followed by a cool-down run. You MUST NOT stop and hold the pads against a hot rotor. might be worth inspecting the brake caliper bracket and bolts - in the remote chance something is cracked.

a Forry owner had a connector problem;

is there another relay there with the same part number? swap them if so. see if the fans work better. some people have had intermittent fans.

you could take some temp measurements with a remote infrared thermometer. Also, lift the rear of the car and try rocking the tire up-down. (12 to 6 O'clock) comapre both sides. really should be zero movement. i gad a bad rear bearing that moved about 2mm, other side was rock solid. you can also compare sound with a mechanics stethoscope from side to side - might hear rough bearings.

most of us do fine with non-performance parts and normal driving without a bed-in. Is it a good idea? probably - might help if you engage in 'spirited driving' right out of the gate - but plenty of people would have no problems after the first 2-3 gentle stops. You could do a 30-30-30 . Do a normal stop from 30mph, Drive for 30 seconds, stop again. Dot that 30 times. But really, modern pads work well against decent rotors without much chance fro drama. make sure to clean any protective grease off the rotors. good opportunity to wire-brush off the front of the hub and I like to hit the studs with some gentle wire-brushing - just to knock off any corrosion. maybe put some light grease or something on the front of the hub to help keep corrosion down? some silicone spray or ???

yeah, i was always envious of folks who had AA near them and now, it seems a carQuest I have used in the past is AA so, I should be able to take advantage of their discounts in the future! um - do you order on-line for shipment or store pick-up? how's it work?

does the CEL flash? (1 and 2 share a coil , could be bad but ....) what was done in the tune-up? miles and history, condition of car ????

those connectors activate all the evap solenoids so, probably not an issue. You'd have multiple relays clicking and fans 'cycling' on/off. but, there may be a common ground somewhere affecting the speedo. and the Temp Sensor, or fan relay ? With the age and all the work done, worth inspecting grounds and cable harnesses. GG will have more experience with the specific locations of things. If the fans are on when they shouldn't be and pulling (or tapping) the relay stops them - well, seems like a bad relay. If there are 2 or more identical relays, swap positions to confirm?

does seem like it could be the ECU is getting a bad signal from the Engine Temp Sensor. Getting data from it might help with this but, might be a cheap enough part to just throw one on. Even if you're wrong, it eliminates one thing, and you replace a 17 year-old part. you don't have any other relays clicking or odd electronic behavior do you? sometimes people mistakenly connect the green test connectors under the dash and their fans go crazy.

looking at RockAuto.com, it appears you could have either on a manual trans - the auto only shows as 22. if you cut the boot off, you might find there's enough showing on the shaft to count.

AH - OK, I do not know the axle-shaft's spline count. (could there be a difference between 2.5 H4 and the 3.0 H6 cars?) (I thought the issue was the green 'cup' for the tripod/DOJ joint's connection to the stub in the diff) sorry.

hmmm...not much help but, some folks have had a connector under the seat or footwell be problematic with drive-by-wire throttles.

not sure what displays remain in that model but, there's very little current required to keep an LCD display up. Be VERY careful around a car battery, it's 'only' 12 volts, but there is a HUGE amount of energy stored in them and sparks/fires/explosions are possible. you may need help from a pro, but here's a coupla videos I found, you can find others or perhaps do a search here for some threads about it.

you can use a meter to measure the 'parasitic current' . If it is high, you can pull fuses for various circuits to help find the problem. But, if there was a poor connection to the battery, it may not have been receiving a charge. also, it should be mentioned, the more often a battery has been flat, the shorter its lifespan so, watch for that in the future.

it will not be 22 or 30. It will be a an odd number like 23. and you MUST NOT get the spring pin hole 180 out of phase when assembling. I hope someone replies with specific numbers for you.

does the CD player work? Is there a CD stuck in it?