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3-43 7. Hydraulic Valve Lifter 1. Replacement The hydraulic valve lifter can be replaced even when the engine is mounted on the vehicle as follows: 1. Disconnect both the blow-by and PCV hoses 2. Revove the valve rocker cover. 3. Using the special tool (Socket Wrench: 899988607), loosen the valve rocker ASSY and remove the push rod. 4. Raise the vehicle body with a jack and suppor it on a safety stand. 5. Remove the nuts which secure the front engine mounting and slightly raise the engine using a floor crane. 6. Remove the drain plug to drain the engine oil completely. Detach the oil pan. 7. Remove the hydraulic valve lifter. Use of a magnet facilitates removal. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3767-ea81fig-3-45-a-5678/ Fig. 3-45 A5-678 8. The valve lifter can be installed in reverse order. 2. Adjustment 1. Perform adjustment in cold condition [coolant temperature 20 to 40 deg. C (68 deg. to 104 deg. F)]. 2. Retighten cylinder head nuts and bolts previously if necessary. 3. Adjust hydraulic valve lifter with the following procedures: a. Perform adjustment in two (2) sequences. Sequence (I) -------------------- Position #1 cylinder at TDC (compression), and adjust the valve lifters for intake and exhaust valves on #1 cylinder, for exhaust valve on #3 cylinder and for intake valve on #4 cylinder. Sequence (II)---------------- Position #2 cylinder at TDC (compression), and adjust all the others, i.e. for intake and exhaust valves on #2 cylinder, for intake valve on #3 cylinder and for exhaust valve on #4 cylinder. b. Raise up the bend of lock washer, loosen the lock nut, and then turn the valve rocker screw clockwise by approx. four (4) turns using Valve Clearance Adjuster 498767000. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3768-ea81fig-3-46-a5-700/ Fig. 3-46 A-700 <Valve opens. Screw by approx 4 turns> c. Leave it with the valves opened for approx. 15 minutes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3769-ea81fig-3-47-a5-701/ Fig 3-47 A-701 <Leave for approx 15 minutes then pressure chamber volume becomes minimum. Valve moves to close a little.> d. Unscrew the valve rocker screw gradually. Then, the rocker arm stops moving due to the closing of valve. This condion is called "Zero Point". http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3770-ea81fig-3-48-a5-702/ Fig. 3-48 A5-702 <Valve closes Zero point Unscrew gradually> e. Moreover, unscrew the valve rocker screw counterclockwise by 1.5 turns http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3771-ea81fig-3-49-a5-703/ Fig. 3-49 <Hydralic valve lifter adjusted Unscrew by 1.5 turns> f. Tighen lock nut, and bend the lock washer. -
Duplicate...Moderator, please delete this.
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http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/gallery/image/3765-ea81-do-not-adjust-valves-sticker/ A sticker on my valve cover says "Don'd Adjust Valve Clearance". The engine is at 160,000 miles. What should I do?
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I have an 85 Brat with the 3AT. I also have an 89 GL parts car with a 5 speed D/R. I want to put the 5 speed into the brat but, I have to get rid of the GL by this weekend, so i wanna pull the transmission and other stuff I need. My question is what do I need to pull from the car for the swap? If the list is somewhere on here just post the link. If not please help!
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I am ready to put the engine in, but first I need to install the oil pump. "Keep Your Subaru Alive" says to not to use gasket sealant when installing the oil pump. The surface the pump will attach to is scratched, is "no gasket sealant" still the best course of action? Hopefully, picture below
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The input shaft holder seems to be on there pretty well, I cannot pry it off with a screwdriver. Can I replace the oil seal for the transmission from here? edit: the video may be upside down.
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Here is a video: The new and old clutch plates do not look the same. Will this be a problem? mkoch
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The videos.... 22 and 24 seconds I am trying to fix an oil leak at the rear min seal, but it looks like the larger ring isn't the thing that is leaking. It looks like an inner, orange ring is leaking, and that is not a part of the clutch replacement kit What is the name of the orange rubbery part? I think I need to replace it, because it looks like that's the only place the oil could've come from. Suggestions?
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My oil pump shattered and it's stuck in the engine. Here's the back story: I was replacing the oil pump in my 85 Brat when, while removing the old one from the engine, I turn around for a second and my dumb friend decides to use a mallet to get it out. The oil pumps are know to shatter and naturally it did. Unfortunately the worse case scenario came true and part of it is stuck in the engine still. It will spin but refuses to come out. I've tried everything. I even drilled a screw in it so I had something to pull. Any suggestions?? Pics attached https://ibb.co/foXbjx https://ibb.co/hbnnrc https://ibb.co/dMoABc https://ibb.co/mPqe4x
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The condition is: I have a 1984 GL 4WD Wagon, and the engine is out of it. The oil pump, and crank pulley are removed. The front main engine seal needs to be replaced. Can I replace the front main engine seal after I put the engine back into the car? I wonder if there will be room to do this.
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Do the back seats fold down and give trunk access in these old sedans and coupes? If so, do they split, or does the whole seat back come down? Thanks -
I may need to replace my clutch plate soon. The clutch would disengage barely enough with the clutch pedal to the floor. I adjusted the clutch cable so it is now possible to press the clutch pedal to he floor put the transmission into reverse without hearing the clashing of gears, but... accelerating with the clutch fully engaged, it looks like the clutch slips. The RPM rise at full throttle without the expected corresponding acceleration. I last did this job on a Gen 2 Subaru in 1989! I think I can do it again. Please, I would like advice on... Where to buy parts, including the insert to position the clutch plate What other jobs should I do on the engine, as it will be out of the car, and easy to work on? mkoch
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https://youtu.be/_SxhJOZO9sk So here is a video link for the trip I took at the end of October to Shotgun Cr. OHV park, outside Eugene OR. The group was several Jeeps and Toyotas, and my one Subaru. Fenders removed for work on a splash gaurd/mudflap project. It has fenders again now. The tires on "T-bone" Are pretty worn out too, but still did well for 15+ year old cracked and bald mudders. skid plates held up. Nothing broken except my spine for about a week after this. My buddy Zach is the guy in the Built Longarm JK 4-door. $80k+ sure does make it look easy. Look particularlly for the wheel bounce on the last uphill at 7 mins. I did eventually make it up that climb, not sure why the video isn't there. T-bone hop by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Ran the gambler winter wonder 500 2 weeks later. T-bone is a tough Beeaaooch.
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85 EA81 Brat New Weber Carb New fuel pump Both New fuel filters New ignition coil New battery Brand new Distributor New sparkplugs gapped at .44 New spark plug wires. (Correctly ordered on the cap) New Distributor cap and rotor New PCV valve Timing is correct (checked nine times) New exhaust Did a compression test and it was good. Don't remember the numbers though Still won't start. I don't know why. Any advice or help?
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I have an 85 Brat that isn't getting spark. New plugs, new plug wires, new ignition coil, new disty cap and rotor. I pulled out the distributor and noticed the distributor shaft has about 1/8 inch vertical play and 1/16 horizontal play. Is that too much on both sides? Do I need to replace the whole distributor? Could that be why it doesn't start? Any info is appreciated.
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I have an 85 Brat that isn't getting spark. New plugs, new plug wires, new ignition coil, new disty cap and rotor. I pulled out the distributor and noticed the distributor shaft has about 1/8 inch vertical play and 1/16 horizontal play. Is that too much on both sides? Do I need to replace the whole distributor? Could that be why it doesn't start? Any info is appreciated.
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Hey I was just wandering if anyone has a book to look up the part # for EA81 torsion bar bushings. The large one at the out end of the torsion tube.
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I have an 85 Brat with a Weber Carb that won't start. I have replaced: Distributor cap Distributor rotor Fuel Pump Both Fuel Filters Spark plugs Spark plug wires The closest it ever got to starting was when I put carb cleaner in it. So maybe even though it has all new fuel parts it still isn't going to the carb? Any advice would be helpful.
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Well I finally got everything pulled apart last night. I drained the oil and at first thought, maybe it's not too bad. I pulled the passenger side head and it looks pretty gross and like it's not a problem that developed recently. If this thing had 77K miles on it then it was rough. Each stud into the block looks rusted and with the block still in the car there's more rust than I'd hoped pooled up at the bottom. What I thought might be a top end job looks like it'll be at least a rehone before cleaning up and piecing back together. At that point I may as well replace the bearings and rings too. Finally someone had cross threaded the spark plug in the passenger front cylinder (1 right). I haven't looked too close, but what are my options to fix that? Rethread for a slightly larger plug or is repair of the thread possible? That's not like the most exciting thing if it means I need a new head.
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I have an 85 Brat that I just put a new weber carb on. Problem is when I got the carb mounted up and started it the car immediately went to 5K RPMs and sat there. I checked the throttle wheel and it was ok. I even started the car with the throttle wheel assembly completely unattached from the carb, but it still idles at 5K RPMs. I know I must be missing something. My guess is a vacuum hose. So far all I have hooked up to the new carb is the fuel line and the vacuum hose to the distributor. My questions are what else do I need hooked up to the carb? And if I do need something else where is it and where do I plug it up. I'm new at this so any pictures, diagrams or whatever would be much appreciated. I can add some pictures tomorrow of the car tomorrow afternoon if anybody thinks it'll help. Thanks!
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I have a 1985 Subaru Brat that has the 2 dash speakers and speakers in both doors. My problem is that both speakers on the driver side don't work. The passenger side is perfectly fine, and it looks like one of the previous owners was messing with all the wiring. That is why I think that they might not be plugged up right. Do any of you all know where the wires for the driver speakers are? I don't want to take the entire dash and door out if I don't have to. I can post pictures of the wiring to if needed. Any help is appreciated ????
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Soooo, I bought an 85 Brat earlier this month that had been sitting for a couple years and has a bunch of wasps nests. I'm close to getting it running, but I don't want to have those wasps in there. They are in hard to reach places that. I have been using PB Blaster to kill them. Anybody have any suggestions for getting rid of these SOBs?
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Soooo, I bought an 85 Brat earlier this month that had been sitting for a couple years and has a bunch of wasps nests. I'm close to getting it running, but I don't want to have those wasps in there. They are in hard to reach places that. I have been using PB Blaster to kill them. Anybody have any suggestions for getting rid of these SOBs?
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I just recently bought an 85 Subaru Brat for 500$, that supposedly only needs a new carburetor. Like most people on here I'm doing a Weber 32/36 swap for it. I don't need to pass an emissions test so I want to get rid of as much unnecessary stuff as I can (EGR, vacuum hoses etc). My question is what hoses can I either cap off or just pull completely? I have pictures of my engine bay, with the Hitachi gone. I would appreciate it if someone could label them. Pics: https://ibb.co/hnqbjk https://ibb.co/kEKfAQ https://ibb.co/fOVbjk https://ibb.co/mSv94k https://ibb.co/nkRGjk
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I've got a 1982 2wd GLF EA81. I'm pulling about 30 mpg on average, running all stock with Hitachi carb.I'm lowered on stock 13". I don't see much of a thread for increasing out mpgs for us daily driver only guys. what can we take out of the system or add to get milage? I'm not worried about horsepower in this girl
