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Found 6 results

  1. (updated with the answer) Symptoms: The transmission on my 5 speed 2000 Legacy GT (AWD) sounds like an angle grinder or go-cart (grinding/buzzing/putting noise). Started making noise overnight, in every gear and in neutral, sounds like something rotating/grinding and is proportional to the car's speed. When the car isn't moving there isn't any noise. Another interesting thing is that in 5th gear (possibly others, but most noticeable in 5th) it makes noise with 0 throttle, less noise with 1/8th throttle, and then more noise again if you go past that. What more knowledgeable friends have said: A trusted mechanic said it's probably a bearing in the transmission, but he doesn't work on them so I'm not confident he knows the exact issue. A good friend said he had a similar issue on his 2000s era Forester, and it was the center differential, but I've heard that if the differential is the issue, the symptoms will get worse while making tight turns, and I haven't experienced that, at least at low speeds. Possibly relevant info: I had a rear tire replaced this past summer, they didn't shave it down. I measured them and it was essentially the same size. Maybe a small difference in diameter caused an issue? ANSWER: I'm transcribing from the mechanic so this may not be 100% accurate: The transfer gear was split, which damaged/destroyed center differential (and the back clip came off). The transfer case damaged as well. The mechanic said it was just normal wear and tear, so I'm not sure if this had anything to do with one of the tires being replaced.
  2. I have a 2001 Subaru Forester L with auto trans. I started hearing a really loud clunking noise (as the wheels turn) as I was driving near my house. I immediately took it back to my garage. The noise is very brutal, as in something is ready to break and break badly. The motor and everything jerks pretty bad with the noise while the wheels are rotating. First inspection, it had a really bad busted inner CV joint on the passenger side front, which I noticed had lots of play. Replaced with a new axle, but the problem is still there, no change at all. It really sounds like the noise is coming from inside the transmission, like the front differential is ready to go??? It only makes the noise when running in gear while driving or with all wheels lifted off the ground. It doesn't seem to make the noise / jerk when turning the wheels by hand. I took a rather large video (over 150MB) so I'll provide a link to the video below, any help would greatly be appreciated. https://sendvid.com/om7qyxz4
  3. Hi all, I noticed a coolant leak and traced it (fortunately) to a coolant bypass hose. I managed to remove it, albeit with trouble as it's buried under spark plug and carb tubes/cables, an alternator (at least it gave me an opportunity to swap the old belt for that!), etc. No store around me carries such a small hose, molded of course. It is so tiny, a generic straight line would kink if bent that tightly I believe. ALSO: I snapped the plastic tube off the part that connects between the hose in question. I need this too! I'll check real quick online, but I could only find the larger bypass hose on parts sites. On the FSM photo, the plastic piece would be between the (right) end of the highlighted hose and the bypass tube. It is absent in the FSM snapshot. The broken plastic stem connects to the bypass tube. Any advice or links would greatly help! ~Please and thanks! -Sam
  4. This writeup is for the Third Gen Subaru Leone, a.k.a: "Loyale" or "EA82" etc, but the ideas given here might work, with some changes, to other vehicles as well. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ Have you ever felt the Seat on your Subie like a Rocking Chair? The Subaru EA82 GL has a Complicated Air Conditioner Distribution Design, which includes a couple of Ducts under the Front Seats, one ends there to deliver Air to the Rear Passenger's Feet, and the other Duct delivers Air to the Rear Doors' Windows; this last Duct, passes through one of the Front seat supports, weakening its structure somehow. The Weakest Front Seat Support, is the one located at the Rear of them, next to the point where the Seat Belt Anchors; there is the A/C Duct passing in the middle of said Support. I've seen some local Subies with those Supports Broken, especially the Driver's side one, and the owners didn't knew the reason why their Driver's side seat was loose and / or way too much reclined to the Back... (when said support is not only Broken, but also Deformed for using it like that) ...I Bet that many Subie owners could have same issue on their cars, without even knowing, nor completely noticing it. So, that support on the Driver's Side in my Subaru "BumbleBeast" has broken for the Second Time... I Know: I am a Big Guy, 6' tall and over 110 Kg driving an Old Subie Wagon with Hardened "Reinforced" suspension, so the autogenous welding I did a couple of years ago to simply put that broken support together, will never last too much... so this was the Perfect Time to Reinforce that Seat Support and permanently getting Rid from that problem.
  5. In This Writeup: ► Understanding How a Relay Works. ► Knowing which Wire is for, at the Round Relays. ► How to Swap the Old Worn Relays with Newer, more Capable ones. ► Finding the Location of the Relays on a Subaru EA82 (Third Gen Leone / Loyale) ► Learning to Wire New Relays if Desired... in case you wanna Run Halogens, Bigger Horns, etc... ___________________________________________________________________________________________________ First of All: I Hope this Write Up will Help anyone with Electrical Problems due to bad Relays, Such as Power Windows, Air Conditioneer, HeadLamps, Halogens ...etc... also you'll learn how a Relay Works and How to Easily Wire New Relays. You Know that when you Switch Almost Anything Electric in your any car There is a Relay Takin' the Main Job of Sending the Power to the Accesory you Switched On; the Switch that you Touch or Handle, is just a "Remote Control Signal Sender" to those Relays. Very Long Long Time Ago, I had Problems with my Subarus' Electric Powered Windows, and then Long time ago with the Air Conditioneer too, I Found that the Fault of Slow Workin' / Non Workin' Power Windows was due to a Bad Relay; Also The good ol' subies had A/C Engaging & keep workin' Compressor Problems. An Easy Fix Would be to Just Change the Round Original 22 Amps Relay, But Those Relays aren't Easy to Find, They Need the Whole 12V Power to engage Properly, they are Expensive, and they are only 22 Amps Rated ... ... Beside that at this point of the wirings' life, their Sockets (Plugs) Could be burnt too... In my Own humble opinion, the Best Solution of All is to Swap There Bosch Standard Relays. I've Done it to the Main A/C Relay, the Two Auxiliary A/C Relays, the Power Windows' Relay, and the two HeadLamps Relays. I'll Explain How To do that swap Here, with Photos. Bosch Standard Relays comes in Many Quality Brands, Not Only Bosch (By the way, I Saw Bosch's Made in Portugal, Germany and Brazil, rated at different Amps) There are many Other Brands that Make the Bosch Standard relays, like Hella, Wagner, Flösser, Osram, Sylvania, Potter & Brumfield ... etc ... so They are Easy to Find, They are Cheaper than stock round relays, and Give Better / Faster Response; they just need as Little as 8 Volts to Engage, also Bosch Standards are more Reliable, and are Rated from 30 Amps to 40 Amps, so They'll Last Longer too ... ... Warning! - Please Forget about Cheapo bad quality relays. In Example, This is a photo of a "Potter & Blumfield" 40 Amps Relay, Made in USA, The one that I've Swaped in, instead the Main A/C Relay Under the DashBoard: But to Swap a Bosch Standard Relay in your Subie, You'll Need to Cut off the Subie's Plug and Weld there a Bosch Standard Plug ... Or use an Adaptor. I'll Explain How to do That Too, is Easier than you Could Imagine, but keep Readin' Carefully, and Do Not Forget to Remove one of the Battery Terminals prior to Start Cutting / Welding any Wire. Please: Be Careful While doing this, follow this instructions at your own Risk. The Plugs' Swap is needed to be Done just once for each Relay Unit; then in the Future if you Need to Change any Bosch Standard Relay, the Plug Stays, you only Need to Pull the old Relay from it, and put there a Fresh New Relay; and That's it!
  6. Hi USMB members- I just picked up an '89 GL wagon. The driver's side front tire is "toeing out" bad. I replaced the stabilizer bar underneath as it appeared bent but it did not fix. Alignment shop won't align and says it's either arm or strut but I think they truly didn't know. I like fixing my own stuff anyway but not sure what to do on this. Will a new strut solve this. I attached a picture I don't know how well it will show the toe-out. Nothing appears to be bent or out of the ordinary on the arm. Thanks in advance for any replies/advice.
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